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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've removed all the components from the left/right side of the engine and contemplating splitting the cases. Everything looks good, no signs of damage anywhere. There's on 7000 miles on the bike. Since the only problem I've run into is the seized pistons and pitted cylinders is it really necessary to split the cases?
 

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glad to hear you got the corroded pistons out the cylinders! if the engine was mine, I'd split the cases. I like to know the innard conditions before installing a new topend. I'd look specifically at the crank (probably had all kinds of debris in the bearings from the cylinders), the cam chain followers, the shift forks, tranny teeth, etal.... Plus, the 450 engines are pretty straight foreward taskwise. I dont use any special tools for my 450 or 500T... 2 sockets (10mm and 13mm), a deadblow hammer, cb350 axle bolt for the alternator. i seal engine cases with Hondabond gray. I re-torque case screws 1/4 turn following the manual tightening pattern. Then you'll need to re-install the clutch, oil pump, kicker, shifter, etal... takes a few days but its quite doable. danWI
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Since I've gone this far I'll split them. Whats the best way to split them so nothing falls out when I take them apart (lay it sideways?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When I removed the oil filter I used a screwdriver to loosen the slotted nut, took a half hour to punch it loose. Is there a tool to remove this?
 

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Less than $10 at MotionPro - http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0015/



When you pull out all the crankcase bolts, the engine will already be upside down - leave it that way, and it (the bottom case) will lift right off leaving the tranny and crank in place.
Be sure you've removed the clutch and shift shaft first. Be careful when removing the crank, as all the roller bearings will try to fall out (keep it horizontal).

If it takes you a couple of days like was suggested, then something is wrong. I can reassemble a completely stripped 450 engine, have the cams timed, valves set, ready to put in the frame in well less than 2 hours. Flat rate for a complete tear down and reassembly (in frame) for the 2'nd gear modification was only about 4 hours.
 

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a second to Bill's suggestion of engine upside down... just be ready because that crank is attached to the lower engine half you're lifting! You'll need to disconnect the shift "finger" from the selector to slide the shifter shaft out... but it sounds like you've got all that out of the way already when you removed the clutch and centerfugal opil filter. let us know how your progress goes, danWI

p.s. and yea, it takes me a few hours a day for a few days along to complete a 450 motor! as some wise folk said: its the path traveled rather than the destination.... :arrow: LOL
 

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p.s.s. question Bill: roller bearings will try to fall out? thats not happened to me on the 450 or 500T engines with caged bearings... WHAT roller bearings are you referring too? just wondering, danWI
 

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OK... The crankshaft is attached to the top 1/2 case, not the bottom (the one you're lifting off).... And the roller bearings in question are on the crankshaft, and can fall out of the "cages" if the bearings slide sideways, or the engine is tilted sufficiently....
 

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danWI said:
p.s.s. question Bill: roller bearings will try to fall out? thats not happened to me on the 450 or 500T engines with caged bearings... WHAT roller bearings are you referring too? just wondering, danWI

Then you got lucky, Dan Bauer.
Trust me, if you remove and tilt that crank out of horizontal too far, one or the other (or both) the inner, and possibly the far right bearings will lose their rollers - and they are a gigantic PIB to get back together.....

The one on the left (alternator side) has a circlip holding it all together.
 

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+1 on what Bill and Steve said, those bearing can be a pain to reinstall as I found out a few months ago when I had a brain fart. I got lucky and found all the needle bearing that were scatttered around the garage floor. The one on the end is not that tough but those two in the middle of the crank are a pain.

Don't be afraid of the bearings, just be aware.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A milk crate may be perfect, the studs will slide inside the crate and the engine can sit on top!
 

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Steve, my bad! you're so right at that the crank is attached to the upper section... last engine i opened i had residual oil in the pan so i pulled the upper UP. still have not had problems with falling crank bearings tho. maybe ignorance is lucky? thanks for the clarification, danWI
 

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I used a "Workmate" knock down work table during disassembly but during assembly I used a milk crate and let the studs go through the holes in the milk crate. Here is a shot with the Workmate.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
"Workmate" what a great idea ! I have one in the basement with the table saw on it. Workmate and a milk grate will work out perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm about ready to split the cases but have a question about the kickstarter/shifter assembly. What has to be removed?
[/img]
 

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gaillarry said:
I'm about ready to split the cases but have a question about the kickstarter/shifter assembly. What has to be removed?
[/img]
There is a circlip and washer on the shift lever end of the shift shaft - remove them first. Do not lose the washer, as it is "special" and no longer available. the circlip is nothing special.
then manipulate the articulated arm on the business end of the shift shaft (behind the clutch there) while pulling gently until it clears the end of the shift drum. Then pull the shift shaft out all the way.
The kick shaft is removed by accessing the inside of the engine case, after removing the countershaft cluster. It's held in place by a circlip behind the helical engagement gear.

My BAD !!! I accidentally hit "Edit" rather than "Quote" sorry............rubbed out your photo. Bill Lane
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
In the pic below I've removed the spring clip and small cover with screw (top of casing) but don't see a circlip or do I pull off the long armature?

 

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gaillarry said:
In the pic below I've removed the spring clip and small cover with screw (top of casing) but don't see a circlip or do I pull off the long armature?

No, the other end of the shift shaft, the end that the shift lever goes on......
You didn't need to pull of the spring-loaded stuff on the end of the shift drum, they're a PIB to get back on.
 
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