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Discussion Starter #1
I have to open up my engine to diagnose a transmission noise, and I'm wondering if it's completely necessary to remove the head, cylinders and pistons like the manual states? I know it will make it easier to get the engine out of the frame but is it necessary? I'll most likely just be looking at the two transmission shafts and possibly the shifter items (i.e. forks and drum).

Also, what is used to seal the two cases when putting back together. Any recommendations?

Thanks
 

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I'm no expert on your bike, but - (all I really did with my 79 CB400T2 was steal parts to graft into my mutated 450).......

Generally you do not have to remove the top end, but I don't think the job (splitting cases) can be done without pulling the engine.

Typically, no sealant is used on the cases.

If I'm off base on any of this, someone please correct me.........
 

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Sensei
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I'm in total agreement with Bill, except I use a thin film of "Hondabond" on the case halves... and NO additional sealants where there are gaskets.... (Bill likes a film of silicone on his gasketing)..... It's pretty much personal preference....CLEAN/Lack of damage is the most important factor in getting a good seal...
 

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66Sprint said:
(Bill likes a film of silicone on his gasketing)
Well, you'll note that I never tell anyone to do that.
It's one of those "do as I say, not as I do" kinda things.
You need to be VERY judicious in your use of silicon, and I don't want to be responsible for anyone screwing up their engine.
Typically I only use it on the right and left engine cases (clutch cover/alternator cover), and even then very carefully. You need to know where the oil "routing" on your motor is, and stay away from those spots.........
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I got the engine out of the frame and removed all the bolts from the bottom case but I can't get it off. Is it necessary to take the alternator assembly off? It seems to be sticking in that area so I'm wondering if that whole thing needs to be removed first. I was hoping it wouldn't as I don't think I have the necessary tools to remove it.
 

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HerrDeacon said:
Well I got the engine out of the frame and removed all the bolts from the bottom case but I can't get it off. Is it necessary to take the alternator assembly off? It seems to be sticking in that area so I'm wondering if that whole thing needs to be removed first. I was hoping it wouldn't as I don't think I have the necessary tools to remove it.
Some Hondas have a bolt hidden in the oil drain plug hole - not sure if your bike does.
Check it and see..........
 

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Sensei
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I have a Chiltons that has some material on the 400..... Let me read/scan the pertinent info for you...
 

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Does your have a crankcase bolt on the top half? Did you give it a tap with a rubber mallet?
 

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Sensei
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Here's the proceedure:
1 Remove engine from frame
2 Remove left and right side crankcase covers and the components therein;
Clutch, alternator,engine sprocket, primary drive gear assembly,oil pump, external shift mechanism (shift shaft and detents, and plate), etc...
3 (Top end must be removed IF servicing the crank or con rods, can remain in place if trans repairs only)
4 Remove starter motor
5 turn engine up-side-down...Remove crankcase bolts gradually in a cross pattern
6 Pull lower case upwards and free after checking to be sure ALL bolts are out.
Tapping with a plastic or rubber mallet may be required.
7 Rear dowel (guide) pin (tube) will remain in lower case half...DO NOT REMOVE
8 Front dowel will stay in top case, as will all components except kicker shaft
assembly.
9 Note the o-ring locations as well.....
DONE.....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
66Sprint said:
Here's the proceedure:
1 Remove engine from frame
2 Remove left and right side crankcase covers and the components therein;
Clutch, alternator,engine sprocket, primary drive gear assembly,oil pump, external shift mechanism (shift shaft and detents, and plate), etc...
3 (Top end must be removed IF servicing the crank or con rods, can remain in place if trans repairs only)
4 Remove starter motor
5 turn engine up-side-down...Remove crankcase bolts gradually in a cross pattern
6 Pull lower case upwards and free after checking to be sure ALL bolts are out.
Tapping with a plastic or rubber mallet may be required.
7 Rear dowel (guide) pin (tube) will remain in lower case half...DO NOT REMOVE
8 Front dowel will stay in top case, as will all components except kicker shaft
assembly.
9 Note the o-ring locations as well.....
DONE.....

Thank you very much. So based on that I'll have to remove the alternator. I wouldn't have thought you'd need to. Hopefully there is not too much too it, but flipping through the manual it looked like you needed some special tools, so that why I was hoping to skip it.

I'll have another go at it tonight.

Thanks guys.
 

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When removing the alternator stator, remove the phillips screws at 10, 2, and 6 O'clock positions.....DO NOT remove the white painted screws, as this will alter the timing......
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just looking around the net for pics of a stripped engine case to see the alternator side. Came across a few and it looks like the stator is bolted to both halves of the engine by three bolts, and this is holding it in place.

Hopefully I can get it off tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Had to make a holder in order to get the rotor bolt off but that wasn't too bad. However, seems I need a puller to get the rotor off the shaft. Based on the Clymer manual its Honda part number 07933-3950000. Anyone have any luck with just using a regular two-armed puller? If so, I'll pick one up tomorrow instead of waiting for the dealer to order the real one in.
 

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Sensei
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The "puller" is actually a bolt that threads into the center of the rotor, but not the crank and pushes it off.......A 350 rear axle has the correct threads I believe (it also works on 350/360/ and 450 rotors)...Thread the axle Or bolt in tightly, then strike it with a hammer...the impact and push slip/jar the rotor free....
 

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HerrDeacon said:
Had to make a holder in order to get the rotor bolt off but that wasn't too bad. However, seems I need a puller to get the rotor off the shaft. Based on the Clymer manual its Honda part number 07933-3950000. Anyone have any luck with just using a regular two-armed puller? If so, I'll pick one up tomorrow instead of waiting for the dealer to order the real one in.
Less than $10 at Motion Pro........

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0027/


 
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