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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 450 K6 and the spark advancer is a little rusted in place, what's the best way to remove it without damaging anything else?
 

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Sensei
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I'd "paint" the joint with MSR, but PB Blaster, Kroil, WD or something similar might suffice.... It's "keyed" by a pin, so you'll have to pull straight out....(won't "twist-off") Give whatever chemical time to work.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I sparied it with WD and I'm going to wait awhile before trying again. Where the cheapest place to get a replacement unit?
 

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Sensei
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Check Ebay, but they aren't cheap....Right around $50...
 

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I'll say it again. I'm the best advertisement that the PB Blaster corporation has ever had! That stuff gets into places and unlocks things that have been stuck for decades. Plus if you soak it in the PB then you won't have to worry about rust for a good long while. Just keep it away from rubber, ALL o-rings, and most plastics. Especially foam.

It successfully unlocked a piston/cylinder/crank that had been outside since around 1983, with no head on it and full of water. Through Illinois winters... It was on a Yamaha CT3. The engine still turns over despite being outside, without a head, ever since. Before that, I had tried gasoline, diesel fuel, tranny fluid, WD40, Kroil, and various homebrewed mixes of all of them. Even tried a 2x4 with a 5 pound hammer with no results.

Good luck with that advancer. ;)


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Sensei
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GB... The proximity of the camshaft seal is why my choice would be "gently applied" or "painted-on" MSR......Don't want it looking like the 360 with worn journals that was recently discussed.....
 

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The oil seals behind the advance are still available from Honda if you do accidentally melt it. I just bought one due to a slow leak there but haven't replaced it yet. After the VJMC show this weekend maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the info.
Any chance that I can clean the old rusty unit and just replace the springs?
 

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I meant to say if he was removing it, to soak. I suppose it could be painted on as well, or applied with a syringe/plastic tube that comes with it. I figure worse case scenario, it'd swell the 30+ year old seal a little. That's all it does to seals is swell them some. O-rings it swells beyond use. Cheap plastics it will melt.

Quick tip for you oldies: It's no good for arthritis, unlike WD40.. ;)

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got it off, actually after it soaked for about 20 minutes, it came off with no problem. Can I just soak it and clean it instead of buying a new one?
 

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I don't see why you could'nt just spray the heck out of it, or soak it in your preffered oil, and scrub it with whatever brush you have lying around.

Others here may have some constructive ideas as well.




GB :mrgreen:
 

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My only caution (IF the mechanism frees up and works smoothly) would be the surface condition of the breaker cam ( advance unit center) itself..... a (rust or otherwise) pitted breaker cam will eat the points followers......
 

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Sensei
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FIT?... maybe....but I believe they use a different "pinning" system to "key" the units
Work?....maybe somewhat....after the "pin" mods.....
Work properly?.....NO!
Honda is very frugal with application...If the 450 one would work on a 750,(or vice versa) they wouldn't have bothered to design, tool-up for, and manufacture a completely different one, they would have used what they had in stock....
I have two 175 Hondas...one is a "Sloper", and one is a "Vert"(ical)....Even though I can swap the vert heads onto the sloper, they require different advance units so I have to modify that as well to get the Sloper/Vert Hybrid to run correctly throughout the rev range......
Someone here is likely to have a correct (used) replacement IF you need one....
 

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