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Discussion Starter #1
My left cylinder header pipe is damaged where it meets the head. It's cracked at the flare and about half of the (flared) flange is missing. The damage is limited to the flare itself, and the inner sleeve/pipe is intact. Before I replace the entire header pipe with another, I'd rather try to repair it by cutting off the rest of the flare and tig welding on a *doctored* washer.

Has anyone done this? Would you recommend it or should I just replace it with one from Ebay? How has it held up? Did you use a stainless washer or something else? Mcmaster-Carr sells one (fractional sized but very close in both O.D. and thickness that I figure I can make work although the I.D. will need to greatly embiggened .

I've attached a link to one on Ebay with nearly identical damage (rather than trying to post a photo of mine). I've seen several listed in the past year that have this damage-it seems to be common. My system is in decent condition - as good or better than most of what I've been seeing, so I'd much rather keep what I have.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-70-Ho...541169?hash=item362fb3b7f1:g:knMAAOSwcxVauUSk
 

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I wouldn't use stainless, would be harder to weld to that mild steel pipe. I would grind out the id of the washer, leaving the od alone to minimize warping, then run a bead around the of the pipe. You can grind off the od after it cools.
 

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Thanks for the kind offer, Tools! And thanks, Mike for the advice. I'm not sure why I was thinking stainless...

A friend has offered me the use of his tig welder, so I'm looking forward to relearning the art of welding. It's only been 45 years or so, so no big deal, right? lol. I'll order the washers (10 minimum) and source some exhaust pipe to practice on. Mc-C also sells the round topped metric screws and 'stand-offs' I need to reattach to mount the heat shield on the muffler end.

BTW- the O.D. of the header flange is about 40mm or 1.5" and the I.D. is about 31mm. while the flange thickness is about 2mm. The washers I looked at were 1.5" O.D. and .078" thick- very close, but that's the S.S. version. They're for 1/4" bolts so there's lots of hogging out to be done for the I.D.

I did imagine I'd be laying the bead on the outside which should leave a nice radius, like the original profile of the flare.
 
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