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Discussion Starter #1
My woodruff key broke on the alternator and was showing a false alignment. (Pretty far off) This had to have happened before I installed the cam and set everything. Is there anyway I can get to the cam shaft to rotate around without completely pulling the engine? It hasn’t been run but I would think the head gasket will be dead once I remove the cylinder head bolts. I’m just trying to do anything (safely) without having to pull the engine. When I do that, because I’m alone (new city) I have to remove everything and basically completely rebuild the frame. Looking for advice.
 

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Sensei
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27,018 Posts
Unfortunately, to do it correctly and reduce the risk of further damage, you'll have to remove the engine from the frame........:(:(
 

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Sensei
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27,018 Posts
It is possible that you could "get away" without changing the head-gasket, but you won't know for sure until the engine is all "buttoned up", back in the frame again, and running......
IF it leaks, you will be pulling the engine AGAIN and REPEATING all of this work...(and I'm sure you don't want to do this twice....)
That said, I'd try it anyway....... I would re-torque to the upper end of specs, then check cold compression once the engine is back together (jumping e-start BEFORE re-installing in frame) as an indicator of success or failure ..... Phone to discuss and some hints........
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After we spoke today, I was able to get the cam and valves lined up. Before we do this jump start, do I need to do the following?

1) oil
2) timing
3)valve adjustment
4) cam tension

I just wanted to make sure I had everything done properly before I did the jump start check for compression. Thanks in advance!

It is possible that you could "get away" without changing the head-gasket, but you won't know for sure until the engine is all "buttoned up", back in the frame again, and running......
IF it leaks, you will be pulling the engine AGAIN and REPEATING all of this work...(and I'm sure you don't want to do this twice....)
That said, I'd try it anyway....... I would re-torque to the upper end of specs, then check cold compression once the engine is back together (jumping e-start BEFORE re-installing in frame) as an indicator of success or failure ..... Phone to discuss and some hints........
 

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Sensei
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27,018 Posts
The purpose of this endeavor was to set the cam to crank timing, so I'm assuming that has been achieved and verified......
Install and set camchain tensioner.......
Continue to follow the sequential steps in the FSM to complete the engine assembly.....
You need to have the valves adjusted and oil in the engine, but advance and points don't need to be installed yet.....
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Sorry, yes, cam timing is correct. Checked line on sprocket horizontal and indicator bump on shaft at 12 while indicator or stator at LT. Bump on cam shaft is at 6 o’clock 360° later. I doubled checked to make sure the piston was at TDC on LT and Tmarks through both spark plug holes. I think we’re solid. Just need to set the valve clearance now and I should be ready to go. I’ll give you a call, hopefully later this afternoon to run that compression test.

The purpose of this endeavor was to set the cam to crank timing, so I'm assuming that has been achieved and verified......
Install and set camchain tensioner.......
Continue to follow the sequential steps in the FSM to complete the engine assembly.....
You need to have the valves adjusted and oil in the engine, but advance and points don't need to be installed yet.....
 

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Premium Member
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2,925 Posts
I can see one of yor fears is the process of removing and re-installing the motor in the frame.

This has been done single handed by many here, by laying the morotr on its side and lowering the frame over the motor.
The re-combined assembly isn't all that much to bring back upright.
 
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