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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, im officially stumped.
I cannot seem to fit the pistons into the cylinders. I do have a piston ring compressor (in bottom of picture) But if i sucessfully fit the piston into the cylinder, then i will not be able to remove the compressor band.

I thought about taking the pistons off the connecting rods, putting them into the cylinder, then re-attaching them to the connecting rods - but that wont work.

im thinkin i have to remove the outter two studs?
But im not sure the piston ring compressor i have compresses the rings enough. the band is not tight against the piston - ughh.

I think thats about it. I running out to harbor break (freight) to get a stud remover.

any ideas? i have one more trick up my sleeve to try.
thanks for looking
-Dan Walsh
 

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Ok the piston ring compressor should be able to be disassembled, so that as the piston ring are fully in the cylinder and the ring compressor is no longer needed, you should be able to slide it down to bellow the piston and unclip the "ring" section and remove it from the rest of the handle. If not then get a set that can be disassembled.
 

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Hey Dan

Assuming you've got the right size pistons and rings, you should be able to fit them (albeit carefully) without the ring compressor. The rings aren't that hard to squish into their seats by hand - and then into the cylinders.

You might find it easiest to offset the pistons - one up, one down - before squeezing the rings with your fingers one at a time on the top piston and dropping the cylinder head over the top. Work your fingers round the rings/pistons as they go into the cylinders. Once the rings of the top piston are in place, you can rotate the crank to bring the lower piston up and repeat the procedure.

Before you start, it might be an idea to coat the the rings (and their seats) with light lubricating oil. The first time I replaced my 450 rings, one of the top ones stayed compressed in its seat and didn't snap/gap out against the cylinder wall.

HTH

Neil
 

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Doing it with your fingers....which is the way I've always done it.....be careful not to cut your finger. The edges of things can be pretty sharp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you Rod, Neil and Ric, i was able to get the cylinders over the pistons. I took the pistons off the connecting rods and put them in the jug first, then put the jug on the studs, and held it up with vice grips. I then aligned the connecting rods with the pistons, and with a little tweeking (i put the motor in gear, turned the front sprocket and kick start to move the connecting rods) i was able to line everything up.

Now comes the fun part....timing. This is where i enjoy my 2 stroke dirt bikes....no timing to worry about.
Thanks again fellas
-Dan Walsh
 

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Dan

I'm assuming you've worked this out from other posts (and the stickies) but at least one of the cams - IIRC it's the rear - needs some help to get the timing mark on the cam to line up with the one on the case. They only align when one of the valves is part way depressed, so you'll need a tool like a flat bladed screwdriver to carefully turn the cam a little by levering the sprocket teeth.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes you are right, i used a "chisel" like punch (its not a chisel tho) to turn the cam, and bought a pair of good vice grip pliers to clamp the cams, and hold them in place with the timing marks.
Unfortunately i needed to remove the remaining master link, but broke the right sized punch for removing the link....damnit.
So, im going to price out dremels at harbor break (freight) and see if i have enough in my funds.
I might just have to finish the timing when i come back home for easter break.

Thanks for all the help guys. Im obliged
Sincerely,
-Dan from south jersey
 
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