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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I am new to the Forum. Thanks to all who have submitted items they have been very useful in my project.
I am restoring a 1969 Honda SL350. This project started as a basket case with several different model years in the pile of parts. Quite the experience sorting that out.

I would like more information on the Keihin CV SL3A carbs that are on the bike. While I can find mention of them in blogs there is no specific information in the manual or online that I have regarding the specifications for these units. I am interested in the stock jetting sizes and the float setting. I believe the Honda Part Numbers for these carbs are 16101-310-014 or 004 and 16102-310-014 or 004. I was able to find a rebuild kit on line that contains a #35 slow jet (pilot jet), #105 main secondary jet and a #70 main primary jet. These jets match the ones that were in the carbs when I took them apart. The parts fiche shows a slow jet (pilot jet) range from #35 to #42, a main secondary jet range of #100 to #105 and a main primary jet range of #70 to #76 so it appears that I am on the right track? The venture bore, measured vertically (in line with the needle) is 28mm.

The closest jetting and venture match on the charts and internet I can find is the 3-D with #35 slow jet, #105 main secondary and #70 main primary with a float setting of 26mm and a venture of 28mm. I am at sea level and would like to have the jetting correct for the first startup.

Does anyone have the jetting and float setting chart for the SL3A?

I am wondering if I need to change out the #105 main secondary to a #100 for sea level?

SL350 Progress.jpg

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks
Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
JT,

Thanks! I do have that but which of the carbs listed is the SL3A? I assume I am missing something or reading more into it, go figure.

Dan
 

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Nice looking bike !! How did you get the metal to shine up so nicely ? ................especially the forks !
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
IOM,

I used paint remover to get rid of the clear coat on the forks. Since there were dings, I started with 320 grit wet sand paper and worked up to 2000 grit then hand polished. Since then I purchased a buffing wheel from Harbor Freight. I followed the same process on the hubs and brake baking plates and side covers. All the chrome that needed it went to the chromer and all the nuts and bolts went out for bright zink plating. I only use wet sand paper when there are nicks or dings that need to be removed.

This is the final mock up. The tins will go out for paint after the bike is road worthy and I am happy with everything else.
 
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