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Discussion Starter #1
I have been doing the front forks and had to reuse the 8mm bolt at the bottom of the fork. It was buggered so I looked on BikeBandit and CMSNL and neither had the bolt on their fiche. So I took it down to the best hardware store in the area and bought two bolts that didn't fit (even though it did match the thread).

Careful - we may have to hang on to these. They might get hard to find like the cam bolts.

Just a heads up for you guys that like to think they will ride these old bikes into the sunset.

Mike
 

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House of Honda in Mamaroneck, NY has all the lower hardware in stock:

honda parts,honda oem parts, parts, Honda, motorcycle parts,oem honda parts,motorcycle,parts,Chances are your local Honda dealer may have them too.

I'd order a set of the correct studs and nuts. The only bolts on the bottom are the small drain bolts for the fork. The caps that hold the axle on should be held by studs. Bolts are not appropriate for that application.

Studs can be screwed in so ALL the aluminum threads in the fork have a bite. A bolt will not grab all the threads and be weaker. That is not a place to be weaker.

1971 sl350 front fork.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea, that is the "bad" fiche I am talking about. It does not even show the 8mm bolt I am talking about that goes up into the bottom of the tube #7. The studs are on both sides of it. You can't get these forks apart without removing that 8mm bolt on the K1 and K2.
 

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With the K2 forks, I can understand the need to remove that bolt from the damper tube, but on the K1, (which had the damping piston external to the fork stanchion tube) it should not have been necessary to remove it.....
IF the bottom caps have/take four studs, you have the K2 type forks, which may have been a mid year change.......The bolt is listed separately for those forks.....
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well I only have 2 studs per fork but all 4 of my K1s have the nut on the bottom like the K2 fiche posted here. And yes, it does have to come out to remove the seals.

Internally it looks like the K1 fiche as it ought to. It just does not show the bolt.
 

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when you say "nut" are you actually referring to the hex head bolt?...#17 in the K2 fork pic?

it's been a while since I've had a K1 fork apart what does the bolt attach to internally? doesn't really make sense to me but I don't remember clearly.
the K1's damping holes are drilled into the actual fork tube and have check balls in them under the bushings as I recall..

I really don't remember needing to remove any lower bolt to separate the forks on the K1 forks...
you definitely do on the K2's though...the bolt captures the damping rod

is it possible that there is a bolt that just plugs a manufacturing hole?

have you tried separating the K1 forks after just removing the upper circlip?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Let me take pictures, they speak better than words. This week I hope to swap my leaky forks for the pair that I rebuilt. When I get those leaky forks off I will try to disassemble and take pictures. Yes, it is an 8mm bolt as in the thread title, not a nut.

Yes, I have tried to seperate after removing the circlip and failed.
 

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thank you Please do...you've piqued my curiosity
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No pictures yet. Still in the process of installing the rebuilt set of forks. Thought I was done and tested with a spin of the tire. It had too much friction. Then I noticed the spacer on the side opposite the brake and speedo, that spacer was rotating with the tire.

It's dark and a front just moved in but I am left wondering how a spacer could spin and what I need to do to adjust.
 

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IF the spacer is spinning with the wheel, there is NOT enough through loading on the bearings either....The axle, spacers and bearing centers should all be torqued into a non-rotating status, so the wheel rolls on the bearings, not on the axle.....
Front axle torque is about 45 ft/lbs, and if the wheel won't free-spin at that torque, something is missing (center spacer?) or improperly installed (bearing not fully seated)

EDIT: I verified my memory.... Front axle torque is 40 to 47 ft/lbs.....
 

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pics would help us identify any installation issues
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Odd thing is that I didn't touch the axle or brake when I just replaced the hub. I dropped it out the bottom, slid the new forks in, then replaced the wheel/axle as a unit.

Thanks for the help. More coming.

No way to measure torque with my torque wrench. I would try to estimate the pressure.

Probably best if I open the hub and clean, test bearings.
 

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Mike.....
You'll KNOW immediately if the axle was properly torqued when you try to remove it from the wheel/hub.....;).....:lol:
If it's easy to loosen the "nut" end, it wasn't.....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Amen. It WAS loose. Still looking at it. Wish I had better records cause I have had 4 of these, all at the same time until about 12 months ago. The brake pad is thick, will measure it but I know when they are not much worn. But a piece on the end flaked off and that could be a sign of things to come. I just can't remember if I put in new pads when I did the new Dunlops 2 years ago.

Old pads I replace even if new like. But even new, slightly worn pads that have uneven surface, not good.

Pics on the axle will wait. Sorry, bike running comes first!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Everything is good. Once I got the bolt torqued properly, the wheel sans the spacer was spinning like it should. And it was smooth. On reassembly I forget to align the speedo parts and it "popped" when tightening, had to do that over again.

Now I figure I have about 5 years to forget all I learned.
 

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Old brake material can seem good and then fall off the shoe, locking the wheel. Tell me a good time to have your wheel lock up...???


Delaminated Rear Brake Shoe 1.jpg
Delaminated Rear Brake Shoe 2.jpg

2 Days before my rear brake delaminated, I was on a twisty road, leaned pretty far over. This happened 1/4 mile from my house, at 25 miles and hour on a straight section of road. Besides needing new brake shoes, I also needed a new pair of underwear. Had this happened on the twisty road, I would of low sided and hit a guard rail, and if lucky, not get flung into the reservoir the road goes through.

Please don't guess with the brakes.
 

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I bought them in 1981, at the Honda dealer in Mineola LI. For some strange reason, I can't remember the brand, but I think it was Vesrah.

The delaminated in 2013, so they only lasted 32 years.

They looked fine when I was working on the bike....I sanded them and put them in. Age and the heat of being used evidently was too much for the old adhesive.

I read around enough to know that even the Honda brakes are not really built to sit around for 30 years. I have read of a few instances of this.

My new ones are EBC. The front also. The EBC NEW brakes do grip better than the old shoes, and seem better than memory recalls of the 1980's. My rebuilt MC and stainless lines really made a difference, along with better friction brake shoes. Much less effort to stop than in the past.
 
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