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Discussion Starter #1
The original cloth covered stator in my CB160 died (2 of the 3 legs are “open” and I couldn’t find the break) so I bought a stator from a 1971 SL175.
The 160 harness has female bullets, whereas the 175 has a square female plug. I want to cut the plug off and solder in male bullets, but the 3 stator cloth-covered wines are all white.

How can I identify which of the wires to connect to the pink, yellow, and brown wires in my harness?
The readings from the stator are:
1-2: 2.4 ohms
1-3: 2.1 ohms
2-3: 1.0 ohms

Thanks,
Adam
 

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Sensei
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Based on the schematic, the least resistance is between Brown and Pink ..... So those associate with wire #2 and #3......This determines the original color of wire #1 (and will connect to on the 160 harness) is Yellow.......
The highest resistance will be between Yellow and Pink......So that tells us wire #1 and #2...We already know Yellow is #1, so #2 must be (160) Pink....Therefore, Brown is #3....
Our verification is that Brown would also be one of the connections on the "middle" resistance pair, and that is true......

I did the math figuring every pair possibility as to total resistances......If anyone wishes to check my computations or method, please ask...I'll gladly post my crib sheet......
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Steve,
i NEVER would have figured this out so many, many thanks!

With a slightly increased output from the stator I’m planning to add a rectifier/regulator unit, so I’ll maybe have a question later. This addition might be overkill but why chance overcharging and ruining a battery? Not that I think it likely to happen.
thank you, again
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I bought a rectifier/regulator on eBay. It has four wires: red, green and 2 yellows. I’ll be removing the plug and plugging the wires separately into the harness.
Is it safe to assume the green is ground, red is output to battery and the 2 yellow are ac input from the stator?
Or, how can I test it to be sure?
Thanks,
Adam
650BDA69-4460-4BC7-9C49-B6A11C3FA948.jpg
 

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Sensei
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That's a reasonably safe assumption as that coding is pretty widely used..... If it is indeed a rectifier/regulator, readings across wire pairs would vary from expectation due to the internally connected regulator section (which itself contains solid state components similar to what you would be trying to read) that will effect reading discrepancies........So testing that is a wasted effort.....
You CAN test for DC output and a particular voltage limit once installed with engine running.....
 
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