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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
After getting my new forks from Franks I found that the old ones had inserts in the bottom ends that the new ones didn't have. These inserts do not show up on the parts fiches. The end of the tubes on the old ones were peened so the inserts would not just unscrew.
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The top part of the insert has two cut out spots to twist it out with which is where the tube is peened. I ended up using a dremel tool and ground out the openings in the tube. DSC02462.JPG DSC02463.JPG
After consulting with other forum members I took an extra oil filter socket I had and cut two of the tabs off and ground down the sides of the remaining two tabs to fit into the slots of the insert.
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I used a hammer drill with the socket and removed the slotted section of the insert. Below this part is a smooth sided section (1 1/2") with a tabbed insert inside the upper section of this insert. There is a shoulder inside the upper end of the smooth insert that the tabbed insert sets on with the tabs facing out. Above this insert is a washer which sets between the smooth insert and a shoulder on the inside of the tube.
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I then cleaned out the inside of the new tubes and the insert parts from the old tube. I placed the washer in the new tube, placed the tabbed insert inside the smooth insert with the tabs facing out, and then placed the smooth insert section into the fork tube. I then screwed the end tabbed insert section into the fork tube. I will be peening the new tube at a later time after getting some loctite to apply to the threaded section.
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I have been told that this set up is specific to the sl350 k2 and not earlier versions.
 
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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I am happy to say I am back on this build after taking some time off. The past couple of months I have made some progress which I'll be updating in this post.
I assembled the swing arm and the front forks, DSC02666.JPG DSC02668.JPG DSC02670.JPG
rear tire on DSC02719.jpg
pulled the carbs apart, presently rebuilding them, IMG_20160117_144022144.jpg
coils looked a little questionable, so ordered new ones and cleaned the bracket up, IMG_20160131_145007904.jpg IMG_20160131_150952494.jpg IMG_20160131_161804426.jpg IMG_20160131_165657905.jpg got the frame ready for the engine, IMG_20160207_135849237.jpg IMG_20160207_164129122.jpg
and got the engine in. IMG_20160208_175207633.jpg

Next up is installing the new wiring harness from sparck moto and completing the wiring process. The electrical area is a definite low point in my knowledge base so I am sure I'll be asking some more questions in the near future. I am hoping to have most of the rest of it done in the next month barring any unforeseen problems. Again thanks to all who have given advice in the past to help get me to this point.
 

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Thank you for sharing all this information. I'm just starting the same project here in the UK.
Keep up the good work, this is going to help me a great deal.
Cheers. Alan.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Alan, there are two other posts you should check out if you are doing an sl350. The first is a sticky under the engine section in the 350 forum titled SL 350 engine rebuild by Jphoenix, the second is SL350K2 project log in the project log section by captb. I have referred to these posts numerous times during my build so far and they have helped greatly. Also there is always a lot of help and guidance available on this forum which I have also taken advantage of numerous times. Good luck on the build - Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ive taken some time off from this build but I have recently restarted it and am near completion. I have also been a little redundant and have double and triple checked several assembly procedures until I believe I am now satisfied. However, the oil I have put in, Rotella t4, I have read mixed reviews on using it as a break in oil. Cylinders were bored and new pistons and rings. After much reading and research I would appreciate any member input on this before I attempt to start it up. thanks - dave
(PS - I have attempted to upload a few photos but for whatever reason I am not able to get to the phots using the photo tab, not sure if its my computer or a glitch in the system)
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
IMG_20170723_171314303.jpg IMG_20170723_171302861.jpg IMG_20170723_171237166.jpg
I guess I figured out a way to upload the photos, I believe an update on my computer made some unknown changes.
 
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Ive taken some time off from this build but I have recently restarted it and am near completion. I have also been a little redundant and have double and triple checked several assembly procedures until I believe I am now satisfied. However, the oil I have put in, Rotella t4, I have read mixed reviews on using it as a break in oil. Cylinders were bored and new pistons and rings. After much reading and research I would appreciate any member input on this before I attempt to start it up. thanks - dave
(PS - I have attempted to upload a few photos but for whatever reason I am not able to get to the phots using the photo tab, not sure if its my computer or a glitch in the system)
Nice work on your SL!

Corvettes, Mitsu Evo's and other cars come from the factory with Mobil 1 syn. I broke 4 new Honda's on syn oil no issues. Broke in my SL350 in on Rotella T6 (Syn) break in went fine, it has 100% power 0 oil consumption and you have to want to kick it over very strong compression. It was bored and then honed with a med finish, SCI Pistons/Rings Gap at .010. After 3000 miles no issues I decided to swap to a CB head VM30s and fat cam (it came to life), so while apart I pulled the cylinders to look, no scores or wear on pistons, cylinders perfect, checked ring gap on both cylinders Ring Gaps .016 ..so much for peoples theory on Syn Oil won't let engines break in, (if they were still at .010 I would agree) but the people with the theory's don't have any specs usually so it's just they're opinion. The only way ring gaps can change is rings seating in.
 

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Don't forget to check for oil flow at the Oil check bolt, next to the points cover, keep the bike upright the oil pick up is on the rt side, some side stands lean too far left. You may need to blip the throttle it can make a mess but not as bad as not getting oil to the cam. Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #29
captb, thanks for the reply, the T4 supposedly has 1200 ppm zinc which I've read is minimum amount you need for break in purposes. Did you use any additives? Also, I am planning on changing oil after first 200 - 300 miles to check for any contaminants. I'm probably being a little anal about this but i really want to finish this up right.
 

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captb, thanks for the reply, the T4 supposedly has 1200 ppm zinc which I've read is minimum amount you need for break in purposes. Did you use any additives? Also, I am planning on changing oil after first 200 - 300 miles to check for any contaminants. I'm probably being a little anal about this but i really want to finish this up right.
I add Zinc additive in the oil and Lucas upper cyl lube (fuel sys cleaner) in everything I own.

I changed my oil at about 50 miles to check for metal or other unwanted things floating around, I have the Capellini oil filter unit so not much crap in my oil.

These engines are bulletproof except for the Cam and Rockers they need oil and correct clearances.

Do the Kohler Regulator upgrade, (simple and cheap) most batts don't like 16 + volts.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I got the Sparck Moto wiring harness with the reg/rect upgrade installed so should be all set there. I'll check on the zinc additive and the Lucas, sounds like a good idea. I should be getting it running this week and start the break in. Hopefully will go smoothly, will post results later. Thanks again - Dave
 

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Since finishing engine mods at around 3k miles I've put 6k miles since and haven't touched anything except to change oil and put a bigger main jet in...running 50/50 avgas it likes it richer.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Well its hard to believe but I may actually have finally done everything right. I finished up the preliminary carb adjustments, turned the gas and key on, and after a few kicks she started up. I still have to do some fine tuning but am quite satisfied with the results. I again want to relay my thanks for all the info and guidance that the members of this forum have given me throughout this build, it has been greatly appreciated - dave
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Here are a couple of photos of my finished project. I came across a used luggage rack on ebay and it cleaned up really nicely. I have about 200 miles on it so far and it runs really well except the idle is unpredictable after it warms up so I will be diving back into the carbs this winter, also picked up some used intake manifolds which appear in really good condition so will try those too. DSC02786.jpg DSC02783.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Yes, they are, paint was done by Marbles Motors, I am very impressed with their work.
 
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Beautiful SL! Nice work, lots of it:)

When I had the stock carbs they were erratic low down but with tensioning advancer springs, carb sinc and idle a bit rich they worked nice.

Enjoy the SL.. I have around 10K on mine it's been 100% reliable and starts 1st kick every time who needs estart.
 

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All I can say is - WOW - Nice Job.

I've got a serious soft spot for SL's as an SL-350 K0 was my 1st ever Bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Thanks for the comments, it's been a fun journey and definitely feels great to be back on one again. This site and its members are certainly an invaluable resource for people to turn to for information, guidance and encouragement. dave
 
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