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SL 350 K1

9K views 124 replies 9 participants last post by  Clutch Cargo 
#1 ·
I hope this runs when it's done.
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#18 ·
Been there done that with the Bearing Cap locator PIN.

The BEST way to fix the pushed thru PIN is to remove ALL Parts from the CASES.
Insert the PIN and the Bearing Cap.
Break Off the Cracked CHIP and push the PIN until fully down and seated in the Bearing Cap.
Then have a GOOD TIG Welder Cover over the Pin.

It will be 1005 Permanent the TIG won't stick to the Pin it will still be removable.
 
#19 ·
Hi Yender. It does make for a bad day. That suggestion does seem to be the best fix. I wish that I had a tig welder. Only mig. I have seen those repaired but I'm going to change the upper engine case. I have a couple spares. I think the spring-loaded slide was the culprit for the shifting problem but I was hoping to spot the smoking gulln that caused the metal flakes in the oil. This far I'm not seeing anything that looks abnormal.
 
#20 ·
Here what a repair looks like.
The brighter pic is before the TIG and 2nd one is after and grinding down with a remodel tool
 

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#25 ·
All disassembled now. I dont know how the dowel alignment got turned like that.
No one has mentioned this yet, but I'm guessing from your pictures the reason it happened to you is because you're assembling the parts in the lower case and trying to keep everything aligned while dropping the upper case and crankshaft on top of it. If that's what you're doing, know that it is supposed to be done in the upper case and the lower case dropped on top of the already-aligned parts while the upper case and parts are upside down. Don't worry, the cylinder studs won't be damaged
 
#24 ·
I've been looking through all the cam timing related posts. There sure are a lot of them. This must be a very confusing thing to do. I think I have a stock cam memorized pretty well. Mine will require a little more thought. It's been a while for me . I have a cam card and will need to start taking some readings and figure out where it needs to be timed.
 
#26 ·
Hi Mr. Drain. My intention was to inspect the transmission without disassembling the top end. I will begin the assembly tonight as you have suggested. I was asking cam timing questions ahead of time hoping someone with a little more experience would offer me some advice before I jump into that.
 
#27 ·
But that's the point, you CAN work on the transmission without touching the top end, you just remove the clutch cover, clutch and oil pump, and the alternator cover, flip the engine upside down and lift the lower case off. Assemble the parts in the upper case so it's easy to get all the alignment pins in place, then put the lower case back on. As for degreeing the cam, I'm assuming you mean setting the cam timing as the stock cam is not adjustable in degrees. The FSM shows you how to set the cam timing
 
#28 ·
That was my intention until the dowel pin mistake, then it turned into a complete take down. The cam and gear are not stock. Cam requires the racing pistons and valve train. I've set it up in the past but its been a while and I don't have the instructions that were provided by Boretech. I will be going by memory instead.
 
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