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1971 SL350 K1
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Discussion Starter #62
I'm getting gaskets and seals tomorrow and wil finish the assembly of engine #2 soon. Also I've decided it's time to replace the rear wheel. Many years ago the bike hit a guard rail going about 60 and bike and rider went over the side. Both survived but were very beat up from the ride. The rear wheel among many other parts were destroyed. I didn't have another SL wheel so I did the best I could with an extra CB wheel. Compromised with the spacing and left the chain and centering of the wheel a little off. Also broken cable mount for the rear brake will need to be fabricated.
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Discussion Starter #63
Gaskets are a lot of fun. I thought warming them up would work but it isn't so I'll keep at them .
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Discussion Starter #68
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Phase 1. That's enough for a day. Looks like someone patched a hole near the kick starter and generally looks like this cover has had a hard life. I'll see how well I can do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Not perfect but good enough for a 50 y/o piece of junk. Not much time spent cleaning it up.

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Discussion Starter #73
It's getting closer. Stator cover is in bad shape. It looks about the same as the right side engine cover. I think someone used an angle grinder with a heavy wire wheel to clean them in the past. It takes a lot of work to get the scratches out. I might have a cover for the chain side somewhere. Then it's time to degree the cam.
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Discussion Starter #74
Look what I found in my parts pile. A NOS rear rim for the SL back wheel. This will be much better than the old beat up one.
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Discussion Starter #75
Good morning Honda world 🌎. Happy Tuesday , second Monday of the week 😀.
 

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1971 SL350 K1
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Discussion Starter #76
All together, rockers set. Ready to degree the cam tomorrow. I've only done this once before. Somehow managed to get it exactly on the numbers. I'm hoping that I can do it again. My old brain is going on memory because I have no instructions , only the cam card numbers. If anyone has any experience with this procedure your advice will be greatly appreciated.

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All together, rockers set. Ready to degree the cam tomorrow. I've only done this once before. Somehow managed to get it exactly on the numbers. I'm hoping that I can do it again. My old brain is going on memory because I have no instructions , only the cam card numbers. If anyone has any experience with this procedure your advice will be greatly appreciated.

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All together, rockers set. Ready to degree the cam tomorrow. I've only done this once before. Somehow managed to get it exactly on the numbers. I'm hoping that I can do it again. My old brain is going on memory because I have no instructions , only the cam card numbers. If anyone has any experience with this procedure your advice will be greatly appreciated.

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Hello Frankjames, I have degreed cams on a dozen or more engines. From Honda DOHC 4 cyl model 1980, CB750F, 1983 CB1100F, my own production roadrace bikes, customers Yamaha FJ1100, Kawasaki 900 Ninja, my 87CBR1100F, all 4cyl. followed by several different cams, in my 68 Pontiac Firebird. During mid 1980s I worked in a sport bike oriented shop and did race prep for the Sound Of Singles class Yamaha SR600, Battle of the Twins class Yamaha XV 920, and several open production class 4 cyl. models. Most recently I did cams on my Honda twin cyl, NT650, Hawk GT. The procedure is the same for 1 cyl, or 8 cyls. I prefer the math based formula to determine "Lobe Center" method of measurement, rather than trying to get exact opening and closing events. Using factory cam specs for the "Lobe Center" number. If your not familiar with that process, let me know and I will post it. Photos have the collection of bits and pieces I have used to get the job done. The blue box has the flexible dial indicator mount, next to some slotted cam sprockets, photo with spacers on back side of degree wheel, and a fabricated "piston stop" used to locate degree wheel & fabricated (coat hanger wire) pointer and find exact TDC to do the job. All the engines required some adjustment, and all responded well to the adjustment. I feel that midrange and upper RPM response is improved, (and customers agreed) but do not have Dyno results. Good Luck, HondaJohn
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Good morning Honda John. Thank you for the helpful info. You have a very impressive resume. I have a good mechanical background but not nearly as extensive as you. The last time I set the cam I had instructions from Bill at boretech. I could call him any time for help. I believe I understand the lobe center concept but it is not something I've looked at in the past. Bill had me use the opening and closing method. I've mostly worked with 2 cycle engines for chain saws. Port timing is similar to valves opening and closing. I don't have a flexible dial indicator mount but last time I made a solid mount and needed to relocate it. I considered using 2 indicators but just made due. I can understand how the flexible mount would be a must if I were doing this often. Not sure how much time I will get this afternoon to look at the engine but I will at least look at it and make some kind of progress. Thanks again and I will update as I go.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
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Heading in the right direction. I'll get things set up tonight and see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
I think I'm getting closer. At this point I'm measuring at the valve. I need a better mount for the dial indicator. The degree wheel seems ok. I ran into a problem when removing the bolt from the crankshaft to mount the degree wheel. It seemed to turn tight si I was very gentle and worked it out carefully. The threads were damaged. Not terrible but I pulled a couple pieces of threads out of the hole. Looks like the bolt hole goes through to the inside of the crankshaft. I can only think that oil will flow through the crankshaft the probably contains some metal shavings. I can't get them out so I went ahead and ran a tap in and cleaned up the threads and the bolt. They seem to be still ok. Except for the shavings. I think I can torque the bolt gently and use blue loctite. Except for the shavings. At this point I will go through the process of degreeing the cam so that I know what to do with it when I decide what to do about the crankshaft.

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