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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not sure why I do this....

Vehicle Motorcycle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire

Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Motorcycle Automotive tire
Land vehicle Vehicle Motorcycle Motor vehicle Automotive tire

Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Motorcycle Car

Picked up 3! Two 71 350's and a 60something 175. All three had been in a field, covered for 30 years.

The 175 is locked up in the front. Not sure if it turns over or not yet. But it shifts.

The gold 350 is locked up in the rear, but the kick start seems to move - at least twice before locking up. And some shifting seems to release it. The tank has a dent, but the inside is pristine.

The red 350 is also locked up in the rear, sorta shifts, but will not kick. The tank is in good shape, but the inside has some corrosion.

I'm not sure what needs to happen next, but I definitely need to get all 3 rolling to move them under cover.

I'm pretty proficient with cars, but these are really my first motorcycles. I'm going to need a LOT of help. My primary goal is the red 350 since it's the only one of the three that's titled. I'll scavenge parts off the other two as needed. If I can save the gold one, I will.

First things first - need to get the red one rolling. So if the rear tire is locked up, I'm assuming that either the brakes are stuck or it's still in gear (possibly engine frozen?). It will rotate just a tiny bit - probably a 1/4 inch or so. The shop manual says to pull the connecting link on the chain to remove it. I haven't found that link yet and I'm thinking it might be easier to just dremel the chain apart. Are they generally salvageable? I don't want to regret that decision later if they're impossible/expensive to replace - especially if a good solvent soak will make it like new. Any ideas on the lock up would be appreciated as well.

Thanks,

K
 

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Welcome to the forum. That chain is probably toast anyway from sitting out in the elements for years. If you can't find the master link, I would just dremel it off. It's likely the chain links are too rusted together to let the wheel turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! Found the master link and I've got the wheel off. Once I pulled the chain, the wheel was still stuck, so I'm guessing it's the brake. Going in now...
 

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Welcome to the group. You've come to the right place for help with your "problem". As long as you don't admit you have a problem, no problem!:D

We like for folks to start out with a post in the member introductions section to let us know a bit about themselves and their bike(s), but then you've covered a good bit of that here. It's helpful if you include your location in your profile and create a signature with the model of your bike(s).
 

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The back wheel on my CL350 was locked up when I pulled the bike from the barn. Somebody had cranked the brake adjuster nut all the way forward. In my mind, I picture some long ago teenagers looking at the bike while their buddy worked on it. There happened to be some metric wrenches scattered about and one of them happened to fit the nut, so . . .

Ray
 
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Welcome to the forum and all the best with your restoration efforts. I found on my bike that the brake pads separated from the metal back plating and this could get wedged and then locks up the wheel.

I am a bit jealous :mrgreen: - wish I just had a fairly complete bike to start with. Having a possible spares bike is a real bonus.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Ha, funny you should say that. So what I meant to do yesterday was a couple of hours to get the red one rolling and into the shed. What I did was spend ALL DAY getting the red one rolling and into the shed. The lovely Mrs K wanted to hang out and spectate. Then she decided that my tool bag needed to be "organized". I love her madly and all, but...

Anyway, here's what I found.

Auto part Wheel Automotive wheel system Rotor Locking hubs

Auto part Automotive engine timing part Rotor Clutch Locking hubs

You think a little PBB on those shoes and I'm back in business? :D

The most difficult part was getting that stupid snap ring back on just outside the sprocket. I realized later that taking the sprocket off was unnecessary, but... it won't hurt me to drill down whenever I feel the urge.

So I just reassembled the hub without the shoes. Found neutral with a shifter off of the 175 and the chain would roll, so that's kinda good news. But the kickstart won't budge, so I guess either it's buggered or the engine's frozen. No big deal, I was planning on rebuilding it anyway. Good news is that I, along with Lil K and Mrs K were able to roll that sucker into the shed, where it's out of the weather and I have room to work.

The one big concern I have right now is that the spindled shaft for the brake lever seems to be frozen in the hub. It won't rotate. I doused it with PBB. I guess we'll just have to wait and see. Any ideas on that would be appreciated.

Next step, I think, it to replace the handlebars and tires. The bars are almost rusted off and I'd feel a lot more comfortable moving it around with bars that are stable and tires that actually roll. I probably won't be moving it much for awhile, but if it tipped, the first thing I'd probably go for are the bars, which I'm sure would snap off under that much pressure in any direction. So something really cheap... Same thing with the tires - just something that'll stay inflated and hold me over.

Thanks for all the warm welcomes. You lot are a friendly bunch.
 

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your first objective should be to not damage anything by trying to move corroded parts.

before you try to spin the engines again do this...

drain the oil
remove the round oil pump/filter cover from the right case and clean out the oil slingers on both engines. (get a manual or search the forum for how to do this)

refill the engine oil with the cheapest oil you can buy (for now).

remove the spark plugs and fill all the cylinders up with SeaFoam DeepCreep and let them sit for a few weeks

you can use seafoam on the brake pivot shaft as well. also hit it with heat from a propane torch then spray with penetrant/lubricant again...repeat till it's free. the penetrant is flammable so do it in a safe environment.

the inside of that hub is going to need to be sand/bead blasted to get that rust off. looks like the bearings are toast as well.
 

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And some people think just because you can get a 40 year old bike running that it's OK to ride.

You've just documented one of the reasons that I ALWAYS look inside at the brakes. Just becuase I canmake it go doesn't mean It will STOP when you want (cross that out ) NEED it to.
 
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Knoxes,

That is some good advice from the forum members so far, and I believe you have performed a public safety service announcement by posting the pictures of what is left of your brakes. I agree emphatically with Yendor's comment.

I see you are going to get some tires to make the bike a roller. That's a good idea, but remember that the clock is always running on tires and batteries. I just pitched a pair of tires and tubes that looked like new, only because they had a 2008 date code. I almost offered them up on here free but for the cost of shipping. My thought was that someone like you could use them to roll around a project bike in process, but then replace them when the time came. I didn't do it because I feared someone would put them on and ride, perhaps getting hurt or killed. I don't need the liability, and I especially don't want anyone to be hurt.

Anyway, here's my point -- I pitched low mileage tires because I had put them on and let the bike sit too long while it was in process. If your old tires will let you roll the bike around, you may want to consider changing the tires closer to the end of the build instead of at the outset.

Ray

Next step, I think, it to replace the handlebars and tires. The bars are almost rusted off and I'd feel a lot more comfortable moving it around with bars that are stable and tires that actually roll. I probably won't be moving it much for awhile, but if it tipped, the first thing I'd probably go for are the bars, which I'm sure would snap off under that much pressure in any direction. So something really cheap... Same thing with the tires - just something that'll stay inflated and hold me over.

Thanks for all the warm welcomes. You lot are a friendly bunch.
 
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First and foremost - your wife sounds like a keeper. Buy her a nice helmet and keep her involved. Let her organize her tools, having her on your side is invaluable.

The brake cam will get stuck. You can drive it out to get at it to clean it. I think it's held in place just by the brake shoes - take them off and work the brake cam out.

I know how rusty these things are and how bad they smell. It seems impossible to see your way to the end sometimes. Concentrate on one and stick with it.

I would be stuck on the little 175 - I'd fix it up mechanically and leave it crusty and rusty but make it into a perfect little rider.

Good luck!



Ha, funny you should say that. So what I meant to do yesterday was a couple of hours to get the red one rolling and into the shed. What I did was spend ALL DAY getting the red one rolling and into the shed. The lovely Mrs K wanted to hang out and spectate. Then she decided that my tool bag needed to be "organized". I love her madly and all, but...

Anyway, here's what I found.

View attachment 37990

View attachment 37991

You think a little PBB on those shoes and I'm back in business? :D

The most difficult part was getting that stupid snap ring back on just outside the sprocket. I realized later that taking the sprocket off was unnecessary, but... it won't hurt me to drill down whenever I feel the urge.

So I just reassembled the hub without the shoes. Found neutral with a shifter off of the 175 and the chain would roll, so that's kinda good news. But the kickstart won't budge, so I guess either it's buggered or the engine's frozen. No big deal, I was planning on rebuilding it anyway. Good news is that I, along with Lil K and Mrs K were able to roll that sucker into the shed, where it's out of the weather and I have room to work.

The one big concern I have right now is that the spindled shaft for the brake lever seems to be frozen in the hub. It won't rotate. I doused it with PBB. I guess we'll just have to wait and see. Any ideas on that would be appreciated.

Next step, I think, it to replace the handlebars and tires. The bars are almost rusted off and I'd feel a lot more comfortable moving it around with bars that are stable and tires that actually roll. I probably won't be moving it much for awhile, but if it tipped, the first thing I'd probably go for are the bars, which I'm sure would snap off under that much pressure in any direction. So something really cheap... Same thing with the tires - just something that'll stay inflated and hold me over.

Thanks for all the warm welcomes. You lot are a friendly bunch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Noted, noted annnnndddd noted! Might wait on the tires...

I'm taking it pretty easy on all of the... well, everything, assuming that some parts are going to a challenge to replace. So no bouncing on the kickstart, no whacking with hammers, no power tools, etc. I know and have used Seafoam before, but never heard of this Deepcreep stuff. I'll try that out.

One other question. This fairing came with the red one. The Plexiglas is broken, but looks easily repairable. I'm not interested in it and probably need to get it out of the way. Is it worth anything?

Auto part
 

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That would be easy to fix, and yes, somebody will want it. I think it is pretty cool myself. If I had a CB350, I'd be interested. I don't think it would look appropriate on my CL, though. If I were you, I would pick a price and list in here on the For Sale board. For sure, don't pitch it. I might even change my mind. :D


Ray

Edit: +1 on the 175. I'd have trouble getting rid of that if I had it in my hands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
So I really like this:

Land vehicle Vehicle Motorcycle Motor vehicle Mode of transport

And I think I've seen some pics/comments on this, but I'm not completely sure. Will the pipes from the 175 bolt on to the 350?


Edited: I think I found the answer to that question. But as a follow up, are they insanely hot routed that way?
 

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Hello,
My name is Knoxes, and I am a motoholic. Its been 21 days since I lapped a valve.
AAAhh I feel much better now.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
You know, I've been thinking about this all week, and I'm just gonna go ahead and pull the motor. I'm planning on a rebuild anyway, and I'm not sure what I accomplish by fiddling around until I get it running, or even turning over. Worst case scenario is that I get it open and find trashed cylinders, right?
 

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Might as well cut to the chase, and you know what Forrest Gump said, "Life is like a box of chocolates . . .
 
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