[Dethjestr13]

Hello everyone,

I just bought a 73 cl350 with 6k miles. It still had original tires. Yikes! I bought it from a guy who bought from OG owner. Oil has been changed, tank & carbs cleaned. It runs and i drove from my driveway to the backyard without issue. It is my 2nd motorcycle ever..so i'm pretty green.

I'm trying to assess the major issues. So far shifting gears seems to be the primary so far.

While the bike is not running, I can feel the click from N to 1st and back to N (the N light does light) but going up from N into 2nd (or 3rd, 4th...) there's no feedback from the bike at all.

Any insight into what could be causing this?

There should be a felt click with each successive gear change, correct?

Should i start by pulling right side case cover?

Thanks guys! I do have a service manual which after reading tons of posts sounds like i will need to reference it a lot.

-Brian

 

[Boomer343]

Transmission has to be turning in order to shift ... so either the engine is running or the drive sprocket is being turned.

They can also get locked up and seem like the engine is seized and the kick starter won't work. Turning the engine over with the starter or by taking the rotor cover off and turning the rotor nut.

Your transmission is more than likely just fine.

 

[WintrSol]

You could try putting the bike on the centerstand, holding (clamping) the clutch lever to the grip, and rotating the rear wheel. If the clutch is disengaged, you should be able to rotate the wheel in 1st, and be able to shift to the other gears, because the transmission shaft would be rotating with the wheel.
The service manual is, IMO, the most important tool you can have. Kudos for getting one.

 

[mike in idaho]

Sit on it, with the engine off, and rock it back and forth as you shift the gears. I think you'll find that it shifts quite well with just a bit of movement forwards and back.

 

[Dethjestr13]

Thanks guys. I didn't consider riding the center stand and shifting through the gears. My worries might be all for nothing.

I can't really ride it to test it as those tires scare the hell our of me. There are cracks that could challenge San Andreas. So I'm still making the decision on what to replace them with and if i want to tackle that or pay a shop to do it. I've read a lot of previous posts about tires and the advantages of replacing them yourself.

You guys and this site are awesome!

Have a great day!
-Brian

 

[Rockatanski]

I can't seem to change tires w/o pinching tubes, so I take them off and have the shop do it which saves a lot of money in labor. Wheel removal is pretty easy. Installation takes a little more coordination but you can do both.

 

[Dethjestr13]

I've watched YT videos about changing tires and like you said, none of them claim it is easy but its doable.

From a local shop, I got a quote for 2 Dunlop D404, tubes and strips: $377 installed on the wheels. I had sticker shock. They are charging:

Front tire: $76
Rear tire: $86
2 tubes and strips: $80 (seems high)
installation labor: $70
disposal, taxes: the remainder.

The cheap-ass part of me (which is closely related to the wife-fearing side) wants to try to save money by doing it myself. However, I am afraid of chewing up the tubes and it costing more than i'm saving anyway.

Thanks for your help!
-Brian

 

[Boomer343]

You have found a bike in exceptional cosmetic condition which I assume is original.
Most of us spend many hours and many dollars to come close to what you have.
But getting a bike that has been parked for a long period of time and is 50 years old as well takes time and money and with your bike the added responsibility of not messing up finishes.
For example, a tire change will involve checking bearings, brakes, spokes and more. 50 year old brake linings have a habit of separating, drums and linings get glazed reducing stopping power.
Then you get into fork seals, engine seals, upgrading the charging system with a new regulator/rectifier.

This is not a jump on and go project and to have a shop do it, if you can find a competent one, is going to be expensive .... very expensive. Think 1000 plus.
I am very direct when I sell a CB/CL350 I have rebuilt to tell the buyer, especially if new to vintage bikes, that they need to consider the ongoing costs and frustrations of these bikes.
I have many years of experience with the 350 and they still frustrate me sometimes.
Be prepared to do this work, lots of work, yourself. Do you have the time and resources such as tools, place to work on it and do you want to wrench or ride because you may not be able to afford money or time wise to do both.

 

[DD23]

I saw a pedal cycle in your pictures ?

There are your "training" wheels...






Basic start and finish at the valve.

If whilst inflating you hear a sort of "ripping" sound, DO NOT, that is DO NOT approach the tyre, stop inflating and retreat a bit...

Even a push bike tyre can kill you.

For bikes it's handy to have a wheel and tyre the bike wheel will fit in, body wieght comes into play...

When you have mastered your push bike tyres, apply what you have learnt for chromed rim spoked wheel...

 

[Dethjestr13]

You could try putting the bike on the centerstand, holding (clamping) the clutch lever to the grip, and rotating the rear wheel. If the clutch is disengaged, you should be able to rotate the wheel in 1st, and be able to shift to the other gears, because the transmission shaft would be rotating with the wheel.
The service manual is, IMO, the most important tool you can have. Kudos for getting one.

I just wanted to offer an update in case anyone was curious

It was a nice 60 degree day in Pittsburgh today so as suggest i rolled her out and put her up on the center stand.

I had mixed results. With the bike running, shifting into 1st, neutral and 2nd was not a problem but the higher gears were hard to engage/find.

When it eventually shifted into 3rd, after cycling down and back up in gears, the engine began revving really high. I adjusted choke but the engine stalled. Restarted, shifted through gears again and got it into 4th. The engine revved and died again. Very strange behavior.

When in the higher gears, as briefly as it was, i could hear rattling from inside the right side (clutch) case. So it definitely needs opened up and gone through.

I understand this is a journey and a labor of love (and cash). Right now, i'm prepared to undergo the challenge. I appreciate the support and perspective from all your unique but similar experiences.

Thanks for all the comments!
-Brian

 

[Rockatanski]

The most you’ll lose by trying to change the tire itself is a tube. Maybe you’ll be better at it than me. Then while the wheels off, take a look at the brake pads And don’t forget to put some grease on the axle.

 

[Dethjestr13]

The most you’ll lose by trying to change the tire itself is a tube. Maybe you’ll be better at it than me. Then while the wheels off, take a look at the brake pads And don’t forget to put some grease on the axle.

Yea i plan on changing the shoes while the wheels are off regardless if i attempt the tires or not. I guess checking bearing are warranted to then. I'll add it to the list.

 

[stug41]

Plenty of videos online of how to change these tires and tubes, dont be afraid to try. Even if you destroy 10 tubes it will cost less than having someone else do it.

Just duck walk the bike and shift to make the transmission work.

As boomer said, these require a lot of upkeep. I wouldnt be surprised if I spent an hour on maintenance for every hour of riding, but I rebuild the entire thing every winter after thrashing it all year so thatll do it.

 

[Montanabill]

Unless you live where it is very humid so as to cause sever rusting do not start taking your fine old honda apart.
Rattling while in 4th gear at low throttle setting could be a loose chain slapping. Go slowly and maybe try to find someone else who knows something about bikes to take a listen or a short ride.
Practice changing the bicycle tire. It really is the same principle. Also a bicycle rim is a good place to learn about trueing a rim by tightening and loosening spokes.
Depending how long ago the tank and carbs were cleaned you probably will be dealing with fuel issues.
6K miles is just getting started for brakes and bearings. Get some new tires on it and ride it before you take anything else apart. Some of the hardest jobs I encountered during 45 years of working in shops was where someone took apart and reasembelled something wrong.
Spring is coming, time to get that honda on the road.
Photo is of the caldera at yellowstone park.....better get in a ride before it erupts.

 

[sfruechte]

If you are considering changing the tire, go for it. It's a great skill to have. Honda 350s, all Hondas are very durable. I hear stories of them being pulled from a swamp, stuck engines and they live to ride again.

 

[Dethjestr13]

Unless you live where it is very humid so as to cause sever rusting do not start taking your fine old honda apart.
Rattling while in 4th gear at low throttle setting could be a loose chain slapping. Go slowly and maybe try to find someone else who knows something about bikes to take a listen or a short ride.
Practice changing the bicycle tire. It really is the same principle. Also a bicycle rim is a good place to learn about trueing a rim by tightening and loosening spokes.
Depending how long ago the tank and carbs were cleaned you probably will be dealing with fuel issues.
6K miles is just getting started for brakes and bearings. Get some new tires on it and ride it before you take anything else apart. Some of the hardest jobs I encountered during 45 years of working in shops was where someone took apart and reasembelled something wrong.
Spring is coming, time to get that honda on the road.
Photo is of the caldera at yellowstone park.....better get in a ride before it erupts.
View attachment 321733

Thanks for the advice. New brake shoes are coming Monday. I will remove the wheels for the tires and brakes at the same and get this puppy on the road! I may just get the local shop to put the tires on ( this time).

I love Yellowstone. It would be awesome to ride there. Something else to add to the bucket list.

 

[Dethjestr13]

If you are considering changing the tire, go for it. It's a great skill to have. Honda 350s, all Hondas are very durable. I hear stories of them being pulled from a swamp, stuck engines and they live to ride again.

Yea i've watched many YT videos of folks resurrecting these beautiful machines. Its impressive of the machines' resilience and their mechanical skill.

 

[HenryNorfolk]

I just wanted to offer an update in case anyone was curious

It was a nice 60 degree day in Pittsburgh today so as suggest i rolled her out and put her up on the center stand.

I had mixed results. With the bike running, shifting into 1st, neutral and 2nd was not a problem but the higher gears were hard to engage/find.

When it eventually shifted into 3rd, after cycling down and back up in gears, the engine began revving really high. I adjusted choke but the engine stalled. Restarted, shifted through gears again and got it into 4th. The engine revved and died again. Very strange behavior.

When in the higher gears, as briefly as it was, i could hear rattling from inside the right side (clutch) case. So it definitely needs opened up and gone through.

I understand this is a journey and a labor of love (and cash). Right now, i'm prepared to undergo the challenge. I appreciate the support and perspective from all your unique but similar experiences.

Thanks for all the comments!
-Brian

Please don't run the engine for long with the machine stationary as it will overheat. I'm not sure why you're focused on changing gears with the bike stationary. Once you have the machine roadworthy I think you'll find that it changes okay when riding along. Motorcycles have a 'constant mesh' gearbox and they don't easily change up and down through all the gears when stationary, even with the engine running. I'm sure that problem you describe, with the engine revving and dying isn't related to gearbox. Revs 'hanging' can be due to a sticking, or maladjusted, throttle cable.

 

[Dethjestr13]

Since i am unable to ride it, i wanted to see what is potentially wrong with it. I didnt run it long while trying to diagnose. I'm anxious to ride her and just don't want any other roadblocks. You're right, a ride is the best diagnostic test at this point.