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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was just looking in the torque table sticky and did not see this screw in the table. I think it’s a M6-1.0 so it should be about 72 in lbs then stake? Or should I use an impact? Would it be worth using loctite?

Also it seems like even torquing the screw could potentially be hard on the shift forks/drum.

Thanks in advance for the advice!
 

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I only mess with that screw when the shift drum is out of the bike and in a rubber padded vise.
You can sure enough mess up the shift forks, and if you whack it you can push the whole drum right through the opposite crankcase side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had to replace the shifter detent star. I ended up drilling the old screw head off so I could change the star without disassembling the bottom end. So 72 in lbs?
 

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This would be a lot easier if you can find a socket head screw to replace it with, instead of the OEM type. Then you don't have to worry about the screwdriver head backing out as the torque is applied, and, since 6mm screws are shown as 72-108lb-in, you can go to the center value of 90lb-in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
That would be nice but the oem screw is a flush head screw. I don’t know if a hex head bolt would clear the clutch. I’ll check it out but I’m thinking the oem screw would be the best option with care upon torquing it.
Thanks for the torque spec!
 

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Or are you talking about a flush head 6mm screw with a torx style head?
I recommend you use a Jis(Japanese industrial standard) type screwdriver that will lock-in tight to the head of that shift drum screw;it really makes a difference.I use Vessel brand drivers,huge difference ;)
 

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There are allen countersunk head screws (for a flush fit). If you go this route, I suggest you get a 10.9 or 12.9 grade screw. They use a smaller allen wrench than standard head screws, and I am always afraid of stripping the head.
However, if it does strip, hammering in a slightly larger torx bit always worked flawlessly for me.


 
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