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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been working on my 71 CL350 for a while now & logging it over at advrider.com, but I really like this site & its focus on the twins so I figured I would post up!
Here is a link to my build thread:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthre ... ht=sharp21
I'll post here with updates. Initially I was gonna go cafe style with it, but now I think I am just going to keep it in all of its scrambler glory, perhaps with a few tracker touches.
S.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Got her stripped down the rest of the way tonight!



Looks like I am going to need a new footpeg holder deally (is that the technical term?)


It had been welded on, but I ground it out a bit & it looks like I can salvage the mount. Might have to tap it out one size larger


While on the topic of parts that I will need, a battery box & CL side covers should complete the bike!

I sheared off one of the top mounts for the rear shock:


What would be the best way to affect a repair on this? I was thinking I could grind it off flush then drill it out & tap it, then mount a bolt in there?

So now I am taking a step back to figure out the best way to proceed from here. I would love to get the frame etc media blasted, but dont think I can afford it... Paint stripper, wire wool & some hot soapy water I suppose?
I basically want to get it built back up to a rolling chassis with all the frame, suspension & wheels sorted. Then Ill tear into the motor but will be able to putz around with the wiring harness & little bits while it in in the shop getting honed or whatever...

Any tips on cleaning/polishing or what I should be thinking about proceeding from here?
S.
 

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I would grind it flush, drill and tap, and "pin" a stud in (drill a smaller hole at 90 degrees to the stud, insert a pin through the boss and stud, and weld the pin in, and grind back to contour)... However, an 8 grade bolt will work fine...... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Your way sounds more secure so Ill give that a shot.
Dont want the top of my shock coming off at speed!
S.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got the forks apart this morning. Measured the springs & according to my shop manual they are bang on!
Tonight I out looking at the wheels. Originally I was planning on painting them, but they look pretty darn good!
Heres the back:




And here is the front. I actually thought to give it a quick wipe before snapping this time!



The front end had a bit of a shimmy before I tore her down so I am wondering if I should take it right down to spokes then rebuild... Never laced & trued a wheel before but its a bit of a lost art so I figure I should try my hand at it.
Or should I try to tighten it up like it is? I'll be putting in new bearings, wheels & pads on both wheels.
S.
 

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A front end shimmy can be bad swingarm bushings (a bit counterintuitive huh?).... Chuck the swingarm in a vise to check the rear wheel for true.... front can be done chucking the axle end in the vise.... Use a pointer, dial indicator, whatever... if wheels are true...look elsewhere for the shimmy....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That is very interesting, especially since when I took the bushings out of the swing arm tonight there were only 3!
I think Ill leave the wheels together for now & just change all the bearings
S.
 

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If you do strip the spokes, dont re-lace them yourself! Take plenty of pics of the spoke pattern and hand em over to a pro. Its like inventing your own brake pads, not safe!!

I handed my wheels over to a spoke specialist to graph out the pattern, and measure the offset. Then he gave them back to me to disassemble, prior to stripping and blasting of the hubs. Soon I'll have the funds to return with my shiney hubs and polished rims. Its not gonna be cheap to put stainless spokes and new tyres/tubes on, but ultimately I'm gonna feel safer than if I'd had a crack at it myself :cool: .

Good luck with ya project mate,
Lee
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cheers for that
I think I am just going to start by cleaning them up & truing them on the rim.
Everything is in such great shape that I dont want to make extra work for myself
S.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It was damn cold last night but I got some good work done, thanks to the xmas gift from my father-in-law:


Here is a shot of how the shop sits right now. The chair is from the camper we just picked up & has revolutionized the way that I sit!



Here is a shot of the worst part of the forks:


I was going to hit it with a wire wheel last night but then thought that might be overkill. Ill try to clean it up with steel wool first.

Here is one of the brake pads:

They look pretty good so Ill prolly just clean them up & reinstall them.

Lastly, here are the 3 swingarm bushings I recovered:

I dont know where the 4th one was, certainly not on the bike! That might account for the front end shimmy she had before I broke her down...
Ill be taking one of these to work & try my hand at turning some new ones.
Stay tuned!
S.
 

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sharp21 said:
Lastly, here are the 3 swingarm bushings I recovered:
I dont know where the 4th one was, certainly not on the bike! That might account for the front end shimmy she had before I broke her down..
S.

You're lucky to be alive.........
 

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Yeah, what Bill said..

Another thing. It looks like those fork tubes may be beyond saving? That rust/pitting is pretty close to the area that contacts the seals.

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
tbpmusic said:
You're lucky to be alive.........
Yeah I think the only thing holding it all together was the caked on grease...
Bird76Mojo said:
Yeah, what Bill said..

Another thing. It looks like those fork tubes may be beyond saving? That rust/pitting is pretty close to the area that contacts the seals.

GB :mrgreen:
The rust IS right where the seals contact. I was going to clean them up, but if its too bad Ill need new tubes?
Where would I get those?
S.
 

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sharp21 said:
The rust IS right where the seals contact. I was going to clean them up, but if its too bad Ill need new tubes?
Where would I get those?
S.
If there is rust or pitting/dings on the area that the seal contacts, it will leak, for sure.
EBay is your best bet, unless you have a salvage yard somewhere near....
 

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If no luck then try contacting "forks by frank". He supplies a lot of people on these vintage machines. Not sure exactly what he carries though..

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Its been too cold for electrolysis rust removal as the water keeps freezing!
So I got to work on the sheared off shock mounting bolt.
I ground the bolt flush, drilled it out & then went to work with my new Power Fist tap & Die set from Princess Auto.
All was going well until SNAP! Damn thing sheared off in the hole! Piece of $hit, never again will I cheap out on tools like that.

So I then had to grind the whole thing down far enough to be able to get that piece out, then re-drill & tap with a fresh bought Mastercraft unit.
Here is how it stands now:

Next step is to clean & de-grease the frame, then paint it & continue with cleaning & reassembly. I'll start with getting the rear end & swingarm on, while I wait for my new forks.
S.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I got the electrolysis running, but no rust is coming off...



I figure it is one of 2 things.
The anode I am using a cookie sheet, but it has a non stick coating that might be inhibiting the process.
Or else it is the washing powder. This was the best I could find.



I am going to give the sheet a good wire wheeling then try again, but I had it running all night & the rust hasn't moved..
S.
 

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What parts are you trying to do??

The cookie sheet could be aluminum (wrong choice), and the non-stick coating will definitely interfere.

Like I've said many times, I feel MSR is the best way to go with tanks.....just go to Tractor Supply and get some. Guaranteed results - if it doesn't work for you, I'll drink what's left over......

Electrolysis has never been all that successful for me - and jeez, what a mess it makes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Currently Im trying to get the rust off the underside of the fenders.
Ill see about that MSR though. Dont mind using a bit of elbow grease if I could see some results!
S.
 

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With MSR, It's pretty much soak and wait.... BUT, the results are worth it!.... I use it in EVERY fuel tank I get!........ Steve
 
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