[spirograph]

Anyone have any recommendations for sand (or media) blasters around Seattle? I’m repainting the frame, and paint stripping is a slow endeavor

 

[Old Okie]

I will be painting the frame of my CB400T II and I am not sure I will blast it to bare metal.
I have a little experience painting cars and car parts and the opinion of my instructors was,
if the paint on the object is solid with no rust underneath, sand it clean and paint over it.
We painted several cars during a 12 week period and they turned out OK. I painted an MGB
25 years ago using this method and it still looks good. When I start doing the frame I will
clean it up, sand it and prime any bare spots and spray it with an industrial quality coating.
I may blast small items to bare metal just because I can but maybe not. I am sure we will
get a lot of comment on this post so wait a while and see where it goes.

 

[longdistancerider]

Don't know about the Sea-Tac area, James Pal or 76Twin should have an idea. I've talked with one down here that seems to understand motorcycles clearly, he suggested using a satin black powder on the frame instead of the usual higher gloss.
This will be of interest to you though http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/51...e-remove-replace-painting-powder-coating.html

 

[JamesPal]

I used blast Blastech in Auburn. They charged about $100 to do the frame. I used Powder Vision Vision in Preston to do my brake pedal. They charged about $100. I couldn't find anyone who was reasonable for the powder coating the frame. I wound up painting with Ace Hardware oil based enamel. It cost about $20. If you go to Blastech-auburn, wire the small parts toegether. They use pretty big equipment and it blasts the parts all over. Good luck.

https://www.yelp.com/biz/blastech-auburn

Powder Coating in Washington State, Powder Coating Shop in Washington State

 

[spirograph]

Exactly what I needed, thanks! I found the same thing with coating here; I’m going to rattle can enamel it, but I’m fighting the grime/paint vs flash rust battle right now and thinking maybe it’d be best just to get the damn thing blasted and paint it the same day. I’ll give Blastech a call and see if they can help.

 

[Lefty]

I will be painting the frame of my CB400T II and I am not sure I will blast it to bare metal.
I have a little experience painting cars and car parts and the opinion of my instructors was,
if the paint on the object is solid with no rust underneath, sand it clean and paint over it.
We painted several cars during a 12 week period and they turned out OK. I painted an MGB
25 years ago using this method and it still looks good. When I start doing the frame I will
clean it up, sand it and prime any bare spots and spray it with an industrial quality coating.
I may blast small items to bare metal just because I can but maybe not. I am sure we will
get a lot of comment on this post so wait a while and see where it goes.

You make a good point for diy ease. Degrease and sand or whatever to get a light overcoat to stick,and the durable OEM finish is still underneath so minor scrapes and scratches won't show as much. Looks brand new.

 

[spirograph]

In the eternal words of Forrest Gump, I am not a smart man! I should have scuffed and painted, but I started stripping the old paint before I thought to ask the question, so it’s about 90% clean metal at this point. I’m working on digging out the corner grime and cutting through the half inch of goop where the chain passes over the frame before the swingarm, but once I finish the dirt off, the plan is to light sand the flash rust off and paint it as fast as possible will follow up with results!

On the upside, I managed to pop new brass bushings into the swingarm courtesy of Bob Franzke, so there’s progress for a change

 

[spirograph]

To close this out, looks like Blastech is closed permanently, but Seattle Powder Coat says they’ll do it for less than $80. Their powder is expensive, so I figured their blasting would be too, but that’s surprisingly reasonable for the area. Might be worth keeping in mind.