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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all, I'm not sure whether this is in the correct forum, if not I apologize.

I needed to figure out a way to provide power for my electrolysis tank cleaning endeavor. I have a 'smart' battery charger that only works if I have a battery (drained) hooked up and then run jumper cables to the work piece. I'm frugal so I didn't want to spend the coin on a manual charger. I did some YouTubing and found a video about using a computer power supply for a DC output source. Thankfully, I'm the family/neighborhood member of the 'Geek Squad" and I had a few PSU's laying around. I grabbed this one...

I then followed the instructions in the video and ended up with this.

^^Click the image above for video^^
After about 12 hours, I ended up with this.

I've since cleand it and removed the sticker. I also relocated the tank to a more suitable area - the basement. I wanted to see if it was going to work first as I've only done this procedure a half dozen times. Still a bit unsure about it. I have fabricated some other electrolysis tanks and mostly good results, even with the smart charger. I believe now that I'm supplying +12V @ 14 amps, I'll achieve more consistent results. Only time will tell. I'll run it maybe 2 days checking it every 12 hours or so and see.
Here are a couple other setups and the sacrificial anodes.



Thanks for looking and let me know if ya see anything I can improve on.
 

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Only thing I could add is that the 12v + line is usually the yellow and the black usually the 12v - on the computer power supplies.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you. Yep, that's what I've got it hooked up as. I actually saw another video with the +5V leg and the +12V leg together. I don't need to tax the unit like that. I have time and I don't need to rush anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I haven't tried vinegar yet but I'm amazed at how effective the method I'm using now seems to be. It's been working for a little over 24 hours and I just emptied the tank. The water was dark brown and a handful of large chunks of rust came out. It's almost clean! Another 24 hours and then I'm going to use a 1/2 cup of BB's shaken around with a half gallon of distilled water. As far as treating the inside, I've read something about POR something or other?? Has anyone used it and what were the results.
 

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I hear it's better than kreem which I've had mixed results with. I keep wondering if there's some oily stuff that will coat the inside that gas won't wash off immediately. Idk marvel mystery oil perhaps? You'd probably have to treat it periodically and I not sure that'd be good. I'm gonna try not coating a cl350 I'm working on and see how it goes
 

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when derusting my tank, I used alcohol to remove the water and marvel mystery oil to stop flash rusting.

For me, unless there is pin holes in the tank, I wouldn't use a liner.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thankfully, the tank is actually in fantastic shape. Even sitting in a climate controlled garage for over 2 decades, the empty tank rusted. It holds water! I think I'm just gonna let her eat without a liner while keeping an eye on it for rust sneaking back in. I may try Rust-Mort, I use it as a rust killer for body work. In line fuel filters are in order, that's a definite.
 

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is rust mort safe for a fuel system?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great question I'm going to have to look into it but I was thinking if I use that and then find a way to neutralize it and then using an abrasive like small nuts and bolts to get the rest of the remaining rust off it would work alright. Must do further research
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I found this post on a thread I found after a couple minutes of searching:

"I effectively removed all traces of rust from my 1977 Honda CB750F2 tank
using a product called Rust-Mort, which I bought at an auto body supply shop.
It was about $7 or $8. I removed the petcock, capped off the opening with a
3/8" NPT endcap, and dumped in about half of the Rust-Mort (phosphoric acid,
if I recall). I spend the day doing other bodywork, so I just left the tank
in the sun and occasionally sloshed it around, leaving it to rest on a
different side each time.

Soon, the rust turned to a black substance. Eventually, that flakes off
leaving a clean, etched metal surface. Quickly slosh the mixture and dump it
out (do this quickly to avoid flash-rusting), and immediately fill it with
clean tap water from a hose. Let the water run through the tank for several
minutes to thoroughly remove all traces of the acid. Get as much water out
as you can (maybe blow-dry it?). I dumped in a bottle of that alcohol in a
red bottle designed to prevent gas-line freezing, it aborbs water. I poured
in gasoline, mixed it all up, and rode it until I was satisfied that any
traces of water were gone. "

I think I'll be OK
 

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I-Ride-A-ホンダ;346342 said:
As far as treating the inside, I've read something about POR something or other?
POR-15. Some of their products are pretty decent. Their fuel tank one is probably okay, too.

I've read good things about Caswell's product (and not just in regards to fuel tanks). The website mentions failed POR-15 and Kreem liners, lol.
Code:
http://www.caswellplating.com/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html
Regards,
 

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I used this method to remove the rust from a 1975 xl250 tank and it worked great, If you're a patient person. I've also used sand and water strap it to the lawnmower tire with it jacked up and let it run for an hour or so.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
OK fellas, I've had promising results from the electrolysis. After 48 hours the anode looked like this each of the three times I cleaned it.
I rinsed it out and dried it quickly with a heat gun. It now contains Rust-Mort and I'll leave that in for another 24 hours. I'll then rinse again 3 or 4 times then put the WD-40 in it. I think I'll be good to go.

 
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