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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not good with computers, but here is my attempt to show my attempt at creating a cafe' racer out of a Honda 72 CB450. My only prior experience was bobbing a 72 500f.
Sorry pics are so out of order.
 

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The seat looks like it's coming along in that last pic nicely as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here are a few more pics. I drilled the front hub. Things got a little wild so I have some wet sanding to do and then it can be buffed out.

I found a headlight grill "insect eyes" it's just setting on the light in the pic not mounted under the light rim.

I shot the seat and tank in a basecoat of flat black while it's getting banged around in mock-up.

The small rear turns are from Drag Specialties. Only $40.00 All metal and NOT LED! Only thing that could make them better would be a glass lense, but then they would be $70.00

I've got a long way to go! I need my 11" shocks from TAS! Hope the wheel still goes around! Seat might be getting close. OH the suspence!
 

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Man, some REALLY nice progress on THIS one. I'm into the old CB72/77 (250/305), but I'm ALSO a big fan of the 450 DOHC's as well and it's ALWAYS good to see someone doing such a COOL build on one. I might be picking up some ideas from YOU, if you don't mind. ;)
 

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That headlight grill is very cool, where'd you find that?
Those turn signals look like the ones I put on my 500T, if they are the same type, you'll want to do something to keep the lens ring from coming unscrewed. I lost one of mine and had to order a new set for $40 bucks just for one lens, and one ring. I put a small piece of aluminum tape on the bottom of the ring where it is out of sight. I guess locktite on the threads would work well too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I found it on ebay from seller allintown or email [email protected] I got it for 5.95 with free shipping. It's a factory second but I can't find a thing wrong with it! It had a smudge that wiped right off?
I see what you meen about the lens rings on the lights, I'll secure them. Thanks for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As you might guess my first method of relacing the front wheel fell far short of the mark! I managed to get it figured out in the end. Although I'm sure there was a better method. I found myself removing "outside" spokes to place inner ones. I have it trued enough to take it to a friend with out too much shame for real turing. I also buffed out the fork lowers and replaced the seals. I'd like to get it back as a roller soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I put in a couple good days on it and have added parts after cleaning stuff up and such. Never again will I use lacquer paint. Glad I have the "tins" to paint yet.

After I pulled the paper off the fork lowers I realized I did'nt have any dust covers on them, so they'll have to come back off. I still have huge amounts of work to do..........

The wheels are extras I'm using for now to get things moving forward.
 

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The polishing is fantastic, love it. Did you do it yourself, RESPECT if you did. Let us into your secret please.
I had holes in the front wheel too once, allegedly done by Dunstall in the UK. It looked good I must admit however, the rain got in and I needed new underpants. Strangly I went back to the original. Mind you this is the UK and we do get a tad more rain over here. He he.
 

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two thoughts..
Lacing and truing is all about patience and a good spoke wrench. good tutorials on line. (I did mine on a balance stand with an indicator dial, took an afternoon)

450 drum brake: set up properly its not bad, mine hauls the bike down from speed nicely. (admittedly nothing like my speed triple, more like riding the 89 vmax) I am running an 18" rim and tire up front, it has a cb550 fork with new springs and cartridge modulators, a longitudinally wound motion pro brake cable, and it weighs about 380 ready to ride, but by far getting the thing properly adjusted made the largest difference!
 

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I recently had my restored CL wheels laced up by an expert. Even though I had labeled everything and provided clear pictures of the originals as a guide, something wasn't right when I went to mount the tires.

He had laced up the front hub to the wider rear rim, and vice versa. Oops. :x

Love this build up. Not your usual sketchy vintage Honda cafe creation following the predictable formula of just clip ons, solo seat, and loud exhaust. No. This one exhibits good taste and excellent craftsmanship- looking forward to future progress updates!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the kind words. It's the little bits of encouragement needed in these builds. I did a 500F bobber prior and this is becomming challenging! Well I suppose thats what I wanted.
Biggest challenge is clearances. The kicker missing the rear sets and exhaust. The kickstand,exhaust,shifter....
Mind you this is being done on the cheap so rather than tossing out parts I'm spending a good bit of time cleaning and referbishing old stuff. Now I'm skepticle of the control switches on the bars. The starter button wire broke off at the button. It takes a fool to disassemble it and a surgeon to put it back together! So now I know I can do it once I go to wiring in the controls. Hope those old switches work after some contact cleaner. I won't be taking any apart just for cleaning!

I did do the polishing myself. patience is the word. wet sand w/ 500 grit then 1200 then buff out.
 

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What did you use on the buffer normal buffing soap followed by polishing wheel and polish?
Was it bench mounted type?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I mounted my bench grinder on a sawhorse and used a course and then a fine buffing rouge. I seen a 1/2 hp puffer on sale at Harbor Frieght for $44.00! That would work better than a grinder. The extra clearence would have helped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Worked on exhaust a bit. As ususal the universal fit mufflers need to be modified. I'm attaching the baffle to the head pipe. Then the muffler will slip over the ring on the header and probably need the clamp. The muffler has a 1/4" stud bolt on it that will secure it toward the rear.
I had to shorten the baffle. It's 7" long now and I removed the little fiberglass packing it had. They were straight throu and looked to be very loud, which would'nt have bothered me much, but I decided to close off the end of it by just bending it over. My thinking is that it will help keep the back pressure up some and hopefully make the stock jets work. The mufflers are 12" long.
I figure if it is'nt open enough it'll open by it's self once it gets hot and I hit the ton. :lol:
 

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