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Sensei
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I haven't heard anything about that particular system, but I doubt that you need that unless you'll be running a 100 watt Halogen headlight all the time...... First, I'd check the output of the/your stock system... Seems (to me) the battery was the problem, not the charging circuit.....
 

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I wonder if a better winding job on the coil would result in higher output, longer service life? looks pretty like they are just wound any which way
 

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Yes, wire size & etc. can create a better unit. Lots of old MC's suffer from this type malady. I would assume that 'Ricks' unit does what it advertises.
 

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I went this way with a local "winder" and will report back when the engine is running (soon now :D )

This kit looks great and should come with a warrantee ;)

Rod
 

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Sensei
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It is just my BELIEF that most of the benefit comes from the "improved" (more modern)rectifier/regulator module..... Personally, I have never had an "undercharge" situation on a standard system that had the "extra" (lights-on) coils permanently jumpered in (connect the white wire to the yellow wire)... Indeed, I have had the opposite occur, occaisionally "boiling" the distilled water out of the battery after long, high rev, running times.... Admittedly, this is on a bike with minimalized lighting requirements and no turn signals.... (cafe' racer).... Steve
 

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659 Posts
On the Rick's kit the fittment is for the following.
Would it work on a Black Bomber ?


Part 208607 fits the following machines:
1973 Honda CB350G Super Sport
1968 Honda CB350K
1969 Honda CB350K
1970 Honda CB350K
1971 Honda CB350K
1972 Honda CB350K
1968 Honda CL350K Scrambler
1969 Honda CL350K Scrambler
1970 Honda CL350K Scrambler
1971 Honda CL350K Scrambler
1972 Honda CL350K Scrambler
1973 Honda CL350K Scrambler
 

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Sensei
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27,182 Posts
The 450 windings and rotor are a slightly larger size (diameters) so , NO, it won't fit...
 

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I can tell you from personal experience that Rick's charging parts are 100% garbage.
This is a Rick's R/R from a 1981 CB750F that literally blew up.

Yes, it is old but, that is no excuse for exploding.
 

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I'm with Steve, A new solid state single phase regulator rectifier and cleaned up wiring connections will free up plenty of wattage. My 450 charges just fine. ((Transistors do age and loose efficiency with time)

Ideally your alternator will put out what your bike needs to run, lights ignition etc plus an amp or two to keep your battery topped up. If you are making a surplus of power the regulator kicks in and shorts the excess to ground converting it to heat. the most efficient operation will be when you are using most of the available output, enough is there, but very little is wasted.

Excess power makes more heat, more heat means less efficient operation, and if you don't have either an adequate heat sink, or there is not enough airflow to keep it cool, it will overheat and fail much like fasterspiders picture.

A more common scenario: Your bike will start a ride charging fine, as the battery tops up the regulator starts shunting more power to ground causing it to heat up, at this point it can loose so much efficiency or develop an intermittent heat related failure your charging system is rendered inoperable. You begin operating in a dead loss condition, ending when your bike dies on the side of the road and or you are not able to restart it after stopping.













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