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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this has happened a few times now and its very strange, but I was riding on the freeway doing about 55mph, twisted the throttle a little and the RPM's jumped up about 2k but the bike didnt go any faster. It revved up and I saw the RPM's jump but my speed stayed the same. This has also happened when I was maintaining the same throttle position as well.

Is this some sort of hiccup with my carbs? I recently cleaned them and tightened things up, but it had also done this before that.

Ideas?
 

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Clutch is slipping
check clutch adjustment
make sure you are using JASO MA compatible oil
might need to pull clutch out and inspect/change springs and/or discs
 

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Sounds more like clutch slippage to me. If your revs go up on a manual transmission vehicle (where, if all parts are in good working order, the entire drivetrain is solidly locked together from crankshaft to the rear wheel when the clutch is fully engaged), there should be no change in engine revs until the vehicle speed increases
 

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I'm currently having a similar issue on my Cl175. I tried adjusting the clutch so there would be NO way it was at all engaged when the lever was out. Still experiencing this a little, though. I was wonderin gif it could be the clutch, or just that the bike runs a little lean.

I have not changed the oil since I got it.
 

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Your carbs have nothing to do with it.
 

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I tried adjusting the clutch so there would be NO way it was at all engaged when the lever was out
Jake, just so we're clear on terminology: the clutch is disengaged (the engine power is disengaged from the transmission) when the lever is pulled in, and engaged when the lever is out. If you allow too much free slack in the clutch cable, the clutch might not fully disengage (likely making shifting more difficult)... if you allow too little slack in the cable, the clutch may not fully engage (allowing clutch slippage). If the cable is properly adjusted and the clutch still slips, it's very possible the plates are worn
 

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I have tried both ends of the spectrum of adjustment, a little tight and a little loose, as well as in the middle. Seems like it does have a tiny tendency to rev up without accelerating. Looks like I maybe need to take a look at the clutch plates when I do an oil change. Thanks for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Interesting. In my circumstance I have only noticed this while cruising in 5th gear at high-speeds, not in any other gears...
 

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The lower gear you're in, the less chance of clutch slip. Higher gears put more load on the clutch to accelerate the bike's weight to a faster speed. Two people on the bike will add to the potential for slippage
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The lower gear you're in, the less chance of clutch slip. Higher gears put more load on the clutch to accelerate the bike's weight to a faster speed. Two people on the bike will add to the potential for slippage
Gotcha. Could this be as easy as a clutch cable adjustment?
 

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Proper clutch adjustment for these models:
The case lever should have @1-2mm of free play at the cable attachment end, 1mm is better than 2mm but no less than 1mm. Use a open end wrench on the lever, 17mm IIRC, to move the lever. This adjustment is done after the bar adjuster is turned all the way in, that adjuster is for fine tuning.
 

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My new CL (traded my beat up one for one with a bit more paint and chrome left on it). Seems to have some slippage going on. My symptoms are a bit of the slippage under load, weird/jerky starts from stop, and increasingly more clunky shifts to and from first gear. i'm guessing that means it's time for new plates?

I also finally checked the oil yesterday (only owned it couple weeks but have only ridden it 4 times) and it was at the bottom of the three marks. I put in probably 600ml to bring it up to a more acceptable level :???:
 

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My new CL (traded my beat up one for one with a bit more paint and chrome left on it). Seems to have some slippage going on. My symptoms are a bit of the slippage under load, weird/jerky starts from stop, and increasingly more clunky shifts to and from first gear. i'm guessing that means it's time for new plates?

I also finally checked the oil yesterday (only owned it couple weeks but have only ridden it 4 times) and it was at the bottom of the three marks. I put in probably 600ml to bring it up to a more acceptable level :???:
what oil are you using?
 

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I also finally checked the oil yesterday (only owned it couple weeks but have only ridden it 4 times) and it was at the bottom of the three marks.
what oil are you using?
Should be fresh oil, considering that the oil in it when he got it could have been a bit fuel contaminated and he might not be aware of the potential for the problem. That said, there could be ridges in the clutch basket from wear caused by the tabs of the friction plates which might be some of the jerky starts. Some of the clunky shift issues could result from not enough clutch disengagement during shifting, or the shift drum detent star/roller shaft wear as well
 

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The starts aren't jerky, more like sudden, if that makes sense. They are smooth. However the shifting got pretty clunky, 1 - N - 2 was difficult once the bike warmed up. That's what prompted me to check the oil when I got home.

I had already been thinking about the clutch during that ride because of the lack of acceleration. So I had been planning to do an oil change when I did the clutch.

I put about 600ml of 10w40 in, mostly just to see how much it needed so I could see how low it had been. Oil could have been contaminated, although it wouldn't have been by me because I am aware of the danger there. The bike is a low mileage one that I think was not ridden much before I got it.
 

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That's good... I was just quoting what you said about "weird/jerky starts" with respect to the clutch basket, though I haven't seen it often. Yeah, be sure to be diligent with shutting off the fuel every time you stop for any length of time. A quick smell test on the oil would tell you if it was contaminated. Starting to sound like you have wear in the shift drum detent parts, it's pretty common

450shift drum.jpg
 

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If you haven't changed the oil that should have been one of the first things you do, you don't know what a previous owner has done. If the oil isn't JASO MA wet clutches don't like it and won't work very well.
 

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The issue with the oil is that most modern oils have additives to reduce friction. This doesn't work well with wet clutches since you need a certain amount of friction so the clutch doesn't slip. That's why people keeping asking if you have JASO MA oil. You don't want the typical engine oil sold at the auto parts store.
 

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The issue with the oil is that most modern oils have additives to reduce friction. This doesn't work well with wet clutches since you need a certain amount of friction so the clutch doesn't slip. That's why people keeping asking if you have JASO MA oil. You don't want the typical engine oil sold at the auto parts store.
Small add...

Shell Rotella T6 is JASO MA ... approved for wet clutches .. affordable (10 bucks per oil change)... and nearly everywhere

/end plug.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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I changed the oil yesterday. I put in 1.5L of the 10w-40 JASO oil that I have been using in all my bikes. I rode in to work today and I did not find that I had improved anything, except perhaps fewer false neutrals. Still experienced the clutch slippage (engine goes vroooomm but you aren't accelerating). I also noticed that the shifting from 1-n-2 got crunchy once it was hot.
 
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