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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Day one... Not really but you get the idea.

00v0v_cCjGBGpMqtR_1200x900.jpg

She's been sitting outside, since '94 if the sticker on the plate means anything. Wiring is a disaster, with frayed green strands of copper here and there. Critters relieved her of the filter paper decades ago, though it's nice to see the screens kept them out of the carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Drum brakes sort of roll, which... dang, that means the chain sort of rolled too. Just realized that bit. Anyway, doesn't roll great but stuff is free. Pads n hardware and bearings are in my future.

KIMG0146.jpg

KIMG0152.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The muffler is suffering a bit of entropy at one end, but the pipes are sound, and I'm probably years from needing them anyway. She came with all the shields, though the mounts are iffy. The stock look is great, so I'll see about saving them.

KIMG0170.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Of note, I seem to have a '72 period correct 722A carb on the left, and a whatever-came-after-the-first-year carb on the right. Google told me that Hondatwins says that the short idle-air screw mount means 2nd version carb. Since this bike is basically my latest fidget cube, I'll see if she'll run with the mismatched carbs. Again... I'm probably a ways away from needing to worry about them so you have plenty of time to change my mind.

KIMG0202.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Neat tidbit, the oil came out dark, but clear'ish, with only a touch of white goo in the oil nut's divot. Refilled with leftover conventional ??W-??, but I'm not quite to the point of testing that starter. Dropped a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder, and kicked her over with the plugs out and everything smoothly turns over.

KIMG0212_25_BURST1000212.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lots of wallowed out screws in here... going to go with cap head bolts as things get swapped.

KIMG0194.jpg

I've seen good prices on 4into1... but please let me know if you have a preferred source. Not a purist by any means, but stock'ish looking is preferred. Though nobody is going to see that ancient rectifier.

KIMG0176.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Seems to shift cleanly into first and second and back to neutral. Doesn't seem to want to go higher than second, but the left footpeg is bent and binding a bit on the shifter. That's some stout metal, so I'm not going to try straightening that for a bit.

Gasket set is in the mail... more to come eventually. Not quite retired yet...

KIMG0188.jpg
For twinkies?
 

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Refilled with leftover conventional ??W-??, /QUOTE]
Hope that oil met JASO-MA spec..... Otherwise you MIGHT have a slipping clutch.......

Oh... For tool roll, not Twinkies......(but GOOD ONE)...:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Nope, just the leftover conventional I had on the shelf... pulled the drain plug again to see if anything else came out. I'll hold off refilling it until I have something proper. Going to pull the crankcase covers when the gasket kit comes in anyway. Reading up on this oil strainer thing now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey, good to know about shifting... Sort of like that Midget I drove in England that didn't have a syncro on first... just something you need to remember. I'll try kicking it over while shifting to see if it'll find all 5. Still need to straighten the foot peg, but I'll be happy to see the (admittedly simple) transmission is sound.
 

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So I’m curious. Other than the oddity of the sidecar what is the “Circus” aspect of this bike? Did it really work on a circus, if so which one and are there pictures? Nice photo documentation of your work so far BTW. Good luck with your project!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
To be honest I have no idea if it was a circus prop, but the side car definitely looks like it was a a carnival ride at some point last century. I just hope it wasn't an actual attempt at a side car, because it weighs almost 100 on it's own.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Plastic air filter covers on the bike look gold under the red paint. Not sure if that was the original color or just the plastic used. If I really try to picture 1972... I'm feeling gold flake paint.
 

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Ok so it’s not really a circus bike :( (I thought that was exciting). I agree with you that is quite a sidecar contraption, good thing that’s what you removed first.
Without knowing anymore about you or your endeavors with this bike here is something to check out if you need it.
https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/6...n/16105-basic-checklist-new-you-old-bike.html

For some parts such as carb rebuilds you are best to stick with OEM Honda gasket kits and save the old brass jets if possible. A matching set of carbs would be best in my opinion. It will take me awhile but I may have a match for one of your carbs. Otherwise 4into1 is a good and affordable source for many common parts. I’ve bought plenty from them with good results and fast shipping. You can rebuild your old air filters with bulk 5/8” Uni foam. Search for threads on here, they exist.

I don’t know about using the Kickstarter while trying to shift through the gears. Easier is, if the chain is still there put the bike on the center stand and gently roll the rear wheel while checking the shifting.

What are are your plans with the bike? Original, restomod, custom?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Appreciate the info and the forum link. Lots of good info there. No grand intentions for a full restoration, just seeing if she can be brought back to life. Building a list of bits and bearings that'll need replacing. Rear tube still holds air (just for getting her around the garage, new tubes and tires will happen), but the front leaks. Might fill it with expanding foam until it's time to swap the rubber.

Bookmarked the UniFoam site for filter foam. Adding new foam over the original filter screens feels a lot better than squishing a generic pod filter in there.
KIMG0208.jpg
(Critter carnage)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As I mentioned, I have a some carbs... best described as... still mostly metal? Yes, they seem to still be mostly metal. Not sure I'm going to crack them open yet. Everything moves (except the CV slide but I certainly wasn't going to force it), but they are stiff of course and I'm not sure they can be salvaged. I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner big enough for one...

Also, only one has a part number stamp that I can see (also a larger air mixture screw holder?). The Right hand carb (as the driver sits, with the choke link strap) doesn't have any markings aside from the Keihin branding.
KIMG0219.jpg
Unknown on left in this image

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Unknown on right in this image
 

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Carbs look salvageable and I’d bet they are a matched set. Take your time disassembling them and read up some here on HT about carb rebuilding. Take pictures as you disassemble. You could go this route to soak and clean them.
https://images.app.goo.gl/4YBJqEzf9hogmmDQA
If you don’t have $30 or so to spend then get a can each of carb cleaner and PB blast and go at them with an old toothbrush and brass brush. Soak the jets in carb cleaner and blow out with compressed air. Blow out orifices of carb with air and carb cleaner.
Some people boil their carbs in lemon juice. I haven’t tried it so do some research first.
You’ll want at the very least a rebuild kit for the gaskets, about $30 typically for both carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Little more info on my carbs...

Air mixture needle from the 722A carb (P/N 16016344690: screw set A???) is threaded at the head...
KIMG0225.jpg

Air mixture needle from my other carb is threaded along it's shank...
KIMG0226.jpg

Going to use this (hopefully) pick the right rebuild kit... feels like a fool proof plan, but the wife is quick to point out I'm a special kind of fool.
 
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