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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This bike started as pieces by saving a '71 CL350 engine from being thrown out. A bunch of pieces came with it that were for building this into a dune buggy.
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View attachment 220417
Then I came across a '72 frame with a trashed engine.
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So some time and effort expended and I had a basic survivor bike that was 100% roadworthy for my son-in-law to ride.Things that were done initially were to fix the charging system by modifying the wiring harness, I joined the Yellow and White wires back at the alternator area and removed all the excess wiring. Switches were rebuilt. Electronic ignition added. New swing arm bushings and collars. Sparckmoto regulator, which has since failed causing battery drain. New wheel bearings, brakes, some cables, etc.
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Only problem was at 6'5" he made it look like a mini bike and was uncomfortable on it. So it's been camped out for the last few years while I got resettled here and made decisions about it's future.
Initial plan was correct a starter issue, clean it all up, possibly paint and sell it off.
When I parked it there was a problem with the starter clutch hanging engaged for a few seconds to a minute. So I moved it in to the shop and onto the lift table, clamped and strapped into place. That night there was a loud bang and crash in the garage. Lo and behold the bike was now laying on it's side. Well now I have 6 bent 45 year old spokes because for whatever reason the front tube blew out. Wasn't a very good tube to begin with since it was always loosing air. After checking the rims for run out the front one is wide at the same spot which indicates it hit a curb or huge pothole. Oh well, it was pretty corroded inside anyway and the rear wasn't any better. So the list of stuff to do so far is new rims and spokes, headlight bucket that's cracked, front fork tubes that are pitted, lots of chrome issues. I've never laced wheels and have very little experience with truing.
 

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Quite a story, Jim. When I was 14, my Dad and I rescued a '64 CA72 from outside a garage where it sat in the rain and weather for God knows how many years. We got it home and aired up the tires, and while we were eating supper in the kitchen with the bike on the carport right outside the kitchen door, a loud bang happened much like what you described, followed by loud hissing... the tube blew out and the sidewalls were cracked enough that the air pressure coming out of the rear tire was blowing on the side of the swingarm. Finally someone else here who has had little experience with lacing a wheel. I've done it once 44 years ago, never again since. I like the old school film cameras with the flashbulbs - cool stuff
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So now it's finding spokes, rears are easy but the front's are troublesome. Several listings on eBay for NOS spokes but nothing in new. Those listed look like there's corrosion on some spokes and I can't buy 18 of each part number, some are selling 10 or 5 and some w/o nipples. Looks like I'll end up with Buchanan spokes and since it would look funny to have front one type and rear another, there's a complete set thru DSS available, I'll get rears there too. Ouch. Rims are easy since DSS has them. Next to get a decent truing stand. Then it's refinishing the hubs with the peeling clear coat.
Fork sliders are in good shape other than the finish so those need to be stripped and cleaned up as well. Fork tubes are not in good shape with some pitting in the seal run area and lots of corrosion in the triple tree section.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Quite a story, Jim. When I was 14, my Dad and I rescued a '64 CA72 from outside a garage where it sat in the rain and weather for God knows how many years. We got it home and aired up the tires, and while we were eating supper in the kitchen with the bike on the carport right outside the kitchen door, a loud bang happened much like what you described, followed by loud hissing... the tube blew out and the sidewalls were cracked enough that the air pressure coming out of the rear tire was blowing on the side of the swingarm. Finally someone else here who has had little experience with lacing a wheel. I've done it once 44 years ago, never again since. I like the old school film cameras with the flashbulbs - cool stuff
I have @20 of the older film cameras plus some newer versions.
 

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Hey Jim
I have a spare set of used CL and CB wheels if you're in need of a built wheel, or I can take apart and send you the spokes.
I also have other junk, send me a list of what you need. I think I have a gloss black aftermarket headlight bucket and fork ears that I've set aside for a build I'll never do. I think I also have a complete front light, plastic bucket/ring in nice condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Doode, I'm going to rebuild the wheels I've got for the actual knowledge to be gained. Rims are ordered and waiting to hear back from Buchanan on the spokes. Sat down yesterday and went through available pieces from Honda and DSS and ordered a whole bunch of known questionable pieces like all the rubber stuff. I'd like to keep the original style headlight bucket so if you have a good one that would be great. The chrome bolts also. So the list so far is:
original headlight bucket
headlight chrome bolts
chrome fork caps
rear turn signal chrome frame bolts
 

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I wouldn't waste your money on a truing stand. The cone centering system is suspect and you'll still have the centering to the hub issue. Using the axle in its bearings is foolproof and it's easy enough to rig a stand. Swing arm in a vise.
 

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Id suggest a good spoke wrench, the torque kind would be nice, it'd help with judging how far to alternate loosening and tightening, but ringing them is good too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ringing them really isn't in the cards for me, they'll all sound the same. Silent:lol::lol: Those torque wrench's are all over the place in $$ plus I don't know the size of the nipples yet. Spec for them is 1.4-1.8 foot pounds
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I've got the bike pretty well stripped down. Some things are worse than I remember. One fork ear is rotten thru, the other one isn't great. Looks like they're becoming unobtanium. Tons of parts ordered, 3 pages worth from Western Honda plus the page full from DSS. Sorting out spoke specs with Buchanan.
One question that I have is the front step/pegs. It seems that they don't sit level or even close but there's no apparent damage to the steel indicating that the bike went down hard. So for those that know or have a CL, how level are the pegs normally
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This is why I'm rebuilding the wheels, structurally they're ok. I did the hammer/punch routine in the corroded areas and had no deformation on the opposite side when I originally built it.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The pegs on my CL are level - parallel with the road.
That's what I was thinking, it's going to be a booger to bend them with all the bracing Honda added I think.
Good news is that I went to local salvage yard to compare other fork ears and in their Misc bin they had a pair, not great but the one I really need is the best of those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Not a lot accomplished today other than finding the fork ears, getting all the spokes off the hubs by cutting some and removing the VIN plate. Buchanan contacted me and needed to know the spoke hole size for the nipples. DSS didn't know and 4into1.com sells the same rim I emailed them. Not impressed with their response "call DSS". I understand DSS not being able to go check the rim since you're talking to someone in the UK about parts in Pennsylvania but 4into1 sales are in the same building as the parts. Oh, well.
 

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That's why I keep a set of Cheapo brand digital calipers handy. They're not accurate enough to say, build a space shuttle, but certainly good enough to measure spokes and things. $5-10 on Amazon. Mine are close at hand when I'm tinkering with a bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Parts have started arriving. Rims came from DSS and they are the Union Cycle rims. Got the spoke holes measured and info relayed to Buchanan so I should see spokes next week. Only thing I don't care for is they are stamped one one side as Union Cycle and DOT plus some numbers. In the mean time I've played around with cleaning up the hubs. Some of the pitting is really deep and will require a lot of sanding to clean those areas up. I'm not a fan of the highly polished hubs, just looks wrong to me on these bikes, and the only other option would be paint which is ok. Talked with a polishing business and he said he could do a brushed type look but it wouldn't be even so that's out. Looking into coatings like powder coat and I remembered someone did a 350 engine in Cerakote. https://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com...riPS7niPDziThLDwAHgdvL_dzYCPGzrIaAnKZEALw_wcB Having seen the engine in person I like the appearance of it. So I went and visited a local gunsmith that applies it after seeing on their website a picture of a dirt bike that was done. Sure enough they will do it, in fact the told me they have a cleaning tank for degreasing that will handle a frame. So now I'm considering having the frame done as well plus they're cheaper than the local powder coat guy everyone recommends. The hubs and forks will be satin aluminum after I get the rear hub drive cushions out and the speedo drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Time to bring this thread up to speed since it's been sitting for over 2 years now. I've been buying misc bits and pieces including some almost unobtainium stuff like the chrome fork ears and rear fender mount rubbers. Chrome plating finally got done by Queen City Plating after over a year waiting. The owner did keep contact while suffering a broken ankle that ended with amputation followed by a heart attack. I wasn't in any hurry so it was just a sit and wait thing. While waiting I ended up getting a Cochlear Implant on the left side in July '18 and right side June 2019 after being mostly deaf for the last 15 years.
The engine is mostly completed the rebuild w/modifications, 1972 CL350 Engine build with modifications, and I'm pretty sure I have everything else except for the seat cover and headlight. All the nuts, bolts, brackets, spacers, etc that were originally plated have been replated in zinc and yellow chromate zinc.
The wheel hubs and fork sliders were CeraKoted and wheels laced. Front and rear brake assemblies completely redone. New Ferodo shoes have been arced to the drums.
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Some before and after pictures of the plating, cost???? $50 for all of it
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And here's where I am as of yesterday
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Looking really good Jim. That's quite the deal on all that hardware plating, I think I'll look around my area for someone who does it for next time. Tired of cleaning up OEM bolts and having to clear them afterward to avoid re-rusting. What a story about the chrome plating guy... brutal, the twists and turns life throws at you sometimes. Makes some of our usual health issues as we age seem pretty unimportant by comparison.

How much more were the Ferodo shoes compared to Vesrah or EBC?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah, the chrome guy is running the family business, 3rd generation. When it happened they offered to send everything to another shop they trust. Since I wasn't in any kind of hurry I told them to hold on to everything and that way when he was back to work he knew he had a job to do which means money coming in.
I was expecting a higher price on the zinc plating, seems this place charges by the pound with a minimum of $50. All they asked for was that the hardware was grease/oil free but I ran a tap/die on each piece to be sure the thread were clean.
Here's the Ferodo info fo the CL350, not sure which is front or rear.
Ferodo - Brake Shoe To Fit Honda - FSB742FSB742
1​
$30.31​
Ferodo - Brake Shoe To Fit Honda - FSB943FSB943
1​
$37.91​
The only issue I had with the shoes other than the normal arcing/sanding was the round end was poorly cast and required filing to get smoothed out, I've had the same problem with EBC,
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and here's the filed Ferodo
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