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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is the process I followed to remove a Kreem liner and POR-15 my tank:

1. I used a long screwdriver to scrape what I could of my Kreem liner in the tank. I placed a rubber stopper over the petcock hole that I purchased at Autozone and a plastic bag under the gas cap. I swished water and 20 long drywall screws in the tank and rinsed. I repeated this process several times and removed probably 80% of the old liner like this (it came out in 6" x 6" chunks).

2. I dried the tank thoroughly with a hair dryer and put 1 quart of acetone and the drywall screws in the tank. I swished this around vigorously and let it sit in different positions for 24 hours. The old Kreem liner was gone after this.

3. I purchased a POR-15 starter kit (20$) and used the cleaning solution mixed with 1.5 parts boiling water in the tank. I swished this around and let it sit in different positions for 24 hours. The tank was then rinsed several times.

4. Next I put the drywall screws and the metal prep (not diluted) in the tank after drying it out. I mixed this around and let it sit in various positions for about 1.5 hours. The tank was then rinsed several times.

5. I thoroughly dried the tank by baking in the oven at 100 degrees with the door open and blow drying on an off for an hour. I would blow dry until the tank was very hot to the touch and then let it sit, etc. (Compressed air would be more efficient but I don't own a compressor) The last step was putting in the POR-15 paint. I was very careful not to get any on the outside of the tank. I then slowly rotated the tank for about an hour. The rubber petcock stopper was removed and the excess was drained from the tank. I painted the underside of the gas cap with the vent hole plugged by a toothpick and the inside of the filler neck. I let this sit for 96 hours and would blow dry it a little each night (mostly due to the cold ambient temperature). I have some pics I'll post of my blow dryer set up (my lady friend thought it was comical until I wouldn't let her use the bathroom) and of the finished product.

Note: The one mistake I made was purchasing the black paint version of the POR-15 when the silver would have been more suited as it has metal filler in the paint for heavily rusted surfaces. I wasn't aware of this until after I received the kit and read through the POR-15 catalog that came with it.

Note 2: Do not use actone, thinner, MEK, WD-40, oils, or any other chemicals between the 3 POR-15 steps as the paint will not adhere properly.

Hopefully this is not a repeat post and will help out someone doing a similar process.
 

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I've used por-15 tank sealer on several tanks in the past-Is it the same stuff as their paint?
Also if you use a 6 foot long piece of chain(NOT big stuff.......) it is easier to get it out of the tank than screw or bolts or whatever.
Glad to hear that the kreem CAN be removed, I've wondered about that. Thanks for the write-up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The chemical compounds for the paint and the tank sealer are similar. The tank sealer has aluminum in it to adhere better to heavier rusted areas and to fill pinholes.
 

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I swear by POR-15 tank treatment as much work as it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As another note: my POR-15 paint seems to be holding up just fine after a week but who knows if it will last for years. I'm going to guess yes but I can be overly optimistic when trying to be cheap. I would recommend getting the actual POR-15 liner to be safe since you will know it will be done right and will virtually last forever.
 

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cbrace0012 said:
I would recommend getting the actual POR-15 liner to be safe since you will know it will be done right and will virtually last forever.
Seriously, POR-15 does not come off once it cures.
The little specs of POR-15 I left on my eyeglass lense are still there and have not gotten any smaller over the past 8 months since I absent mindedly put them there while turning the tank around in my hands for two hours.
 

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i helped a guy line the bottom of his iron boat (yes, boat) with por-15.

He had it on his arms for about 10 weeks after. The stuff lasts for ever. I had done my CL350 tank with it, and I would never use anything else now.
 

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May I ask what the advantages of POR-15 are over Kreem? I just recently Kreemed my tank and it seems to have worked fine. What is the reason for choosing POR-15 over Kreem?

Thanks!
Amy
 

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i too am curious about the benefits of POR over Kreem, anyone? i'm probably gonna rip out my old kreem this week as i have just found a few pinholes after just having my tank repainted. the striping process must have loosened something up and now i have a leaky nicely painted shiny tank.

and, how did you guys handle plugging the crossover fuel line outs of say a cb 450 tank. there are two. just stick something in there? what? i get the "bung" for the petcock and gas cap, but the others, hmmm.
-seth
 

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larry,
i'm hardly an authority as i ask as many questions here as you do, AND just because we seem to be avoided here- i was thinking about your question. my thought is that if you did pressure wash the inside it might help you at least find any potential weak spots before kreem-ing. what you do with that info i'm not sure. maybe decide that your tank is not a good candidate? blowing away the old rust layers will certainly clean things up but it will also weaken (even more) any areas that are rusting. tough call. if during washing your seeing minimal crap coming out, you might be on easy street? just know that water in a tank WILL rust it. period. you can dry and dry and dry, but rust is your enemy. i know this hasn't helped much...

i just remembered reading a post here somewhere about prepping for kreem with kerosene and some big nuts or dry wall screws thrown in for some "grit." shake it around to loosen things up and get all that loose crap out. in short, search the boards again and now that i think of it DON'T USE WATER!!!

seth
 

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ol55 said:
Starting on a non-Kreemed tank with rust. Does it help or hurt to pressure wash it first?

Larry
What do you plan to do about the rust?
Once the rust is dealt with, then what are you planning??

You're not being ignored, you just didn't give any info........

Personally I'd MSR it to get the rust, then RedKote, but that's just me.......
 

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thanks bill, if your still here, any particular reason for your preference of redkote vs. other options? in bill we trust, so...

larry's issue is with a non-kreemed tank- as this post's title DOESNT suggest is one issue, but based on what has already been addressed here would you agree with the steps taken for removing kreem and then applying a new liner: POR-15, more Kreem, or RedKote? is one more suited for a "re-do" than another. i know i may be splitting hairs here but i really just want to get this right and understand it all as much as i can.
 

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uhohferris said:
thanks bill, if your still here, any particular reason for your preference of redkote vs. other options? in bill we trust, so...

larry's issue is with a non-kreemed tank- as this post's title DOESNT suggest is one issue, but based on what has already been addressed here would you agree with the steps taken for removing kreem and then applying a new liner: POR-15, more Kreem, or RedKote? is one more suited for a "re-do" than another. i know i may be splitting hairs here but i really just want to get this right and understand it all as much as i can.
I just use MSR and redkote because I'm comfortable with it, it's simple, and works real well for me.
I soak with MSR till all the rust be gone, rinse and blow dry quickly, then "chemically" dry with several acetone rinses. Then RedKote. I know for sure that RedKote dissolves in acetone. Simple one-step application, though I generally thin the RedKote just a bit.

I have little experience with Kreem or POR, so I'm not the right guy to ask - that's why I haven't said anything.
The literature suggests that Kreem should come off with acetone or MEK, and that POR is a lifetime commitment (never comes off).
 

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I ended up using KBS gold gas tank sealer its a polyurethane based system the directions were real good, and the kit was comprably priced to por 15.. there was a waterbased degreaser, a blue liquid called rust blast, I belive it is a zinc phosphate, it took the rust off very fast and did not flash rust at all, I had a several day hiatus between that and coating the tank due to rain. (manufacturer warns against coating in high humidity stuff cures to fast or something.. coating the tank went easy, spills and drips wiped up pretty easy. cured hard as a rock after a couple days. I plugged my petcock hole with a little dab of grease, worked like a champ. let you all know if it fails..
 

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Can I show my ignorance here and say that on the CL175 I have there has clearly been a coating put in the gas tank which has a very rough texture in a 'sand' colour, would this be 'Kreem', since I don't know the reason it was done I am reluctant to disturb it.
 

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malcolmgb said:
Can I show my ignorance here and say that on the CL175 I have there has clearly been a coating put in the gas tank which has a very rough texture in a 'sand' colour, would this be 'Kreem', since I don't know the reason it was done I am reluctant to disturb it.
Yeah, that sounds like Kreem.
If it's ok, don't mess with it.
Get a couple of those little in-line fuel filters.
 

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bill, is it your experienced opinion that using RedKote (i know you said your don't have experience with Kreem) to seal a pinhole is a BAD idea? were talking like 1/32" hole. is it really just to cover and stop the growth of rust? if i avoided brazing and just went that route i wonder how much i'd be pressing my luck. have you had any success with any kind of external epoxies or sealants on a leaky tank? sorry to keep beating a dead horse here, i might just be looking for an answer that i agree with even if it is NOT the right thing to do.
-seth
 

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uhohferris said:
bill, is it your experienced opinion that using RedKote (i know you said your don't have experience with Kreem) to seal a pinhole is a BAD idea? were talking like 1/32" hole. is it really just to cover and stop the growth of rust? if i avoided brazing and just went that route i wonder how much i'd be pressing my luck. have you had any success with any kind of external epoxies or sealants on a leaky tank? sorry to keep beating a dead horse here, i might just be looking for an answer that i agree with even if it is NOT the right thing to do.
-seth

I can't comment on using a sealer for pinholes.
I only use it to prevent rust.
It might work, might not..........
 
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