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I am streamlining my CB350G and am going to remove the e-start. does this mean i can disconnect the Starting Motor, including the starting sprocket and starter solenoid?

also do people just leave the actual starter motor on the engine to keep the left crankcase plugged up or what do people usually do with the gap from the motor being removed?
 

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Someone makes a plug for this I believe.
 

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There is currently a plug to do this on e-bay. Shouldn't be much.
 

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Expandable rubber "freeze plugs" from an auto-parts store can usually be obtained in a usable size to plug the starter hole.....
Yes, you CAN remove the starter clutch assembly, but it's not really necessary... Just remove the small sprocket from the starter motor end and the chain..... The solenoid can go too, as can the heavier red wire, and the black cable to the starter motor......

1 and 1/2" chromed brass sink drain "drops" or extension tubes can be trimmed in to act as fork covers, using the 1 and 1/4" size Square cut rubber washers (on the ends) and/or thin automotive O-rings internally to prevent rattling (or you can simply wrap the fork tube with rubber electrical tape to achieve the same result.)
This way, you can cut the tubing short enough to allow clip-ons, and still show upper "chrome"......Use rubber gaitors below the lower tree to hide rust there....

If you must have clean forks, I have a set of 360 tubes which will fit your sliders (bolt-in, add oil...... Steve
 

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Is the kick start, with the exception of having to actually kick, just as reliable as the e-start?
 

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Everything is reliable until it quits working.

Sorry, I just couldn't help myself.
 

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Kick start alone works fine...Just more effort...
 

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jazon said:
Is the kick start, with the exception of having to actually kick, just as reliable as the e-start?
It's more reliable. If you get the battery a little low, the kick start will fire the bike sometimes when the E start won't.
 

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MNellis said:
jazon said:
Is the kick start, with the exception of having to actually kick, just as reliable as the e-start?
It's more reliable. If you get the battery a little low, the kick start will fire the bike sometimes when the E start won't.

Just the opposite can be said for a bike that's NOT in a good state of tune... We've all had the kickstart shin at some point in our lives... :shock: :eek: :(


GB :mrgreen:
 

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I learned to ride on a 1979 kz1000, it's e start while capable of spinning the engine fine left no juice for the ignition. The kick starter on the other hand was a half kick to life every time.
 
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