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Discussion Starter #1
I have a tank for my other bike, and someone tried to kream it.

apparently they missed the part in the directions about pouring out the excess.


How do i get this crap out?
 

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Sensei
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I would think some type of solvent...Acetone maybe?.....
 

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66Sprint said:
I would think some type of solvent...Acetone maybe?.....
MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) works best, it what is used to thin it, warning nasty stuff, just google Kreem tank sealant and read all the horror stories about getting this crap out, personally I woundn't use it, I've used electrolysis and it works very well but it won't fix any holes so if you need a sealer I'd try POR-15
 

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jayel said:
I've used electrolysis and it works very well but it won't fix any holes so if you need a sealer I'd try POR-15
I just treated a CB1100F 5.3 gallon tank with POR-15 and as much of a PITA as it was to do, it was worth the $48.00 with shipping. It is doing the 96 hour cure now.
 

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MEK is supposed to take care of Kreem - but like Jay says, it's highly toxic.

By all reports, POR is almost impossible to remove once it has set up and cured. Sandblasting is the typical approach, but you can't sanddblast inside a fuel tank very well.......
So, POR is Forever, more or less....
 

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MEK it is then..... Of course, at the current price for MEK, it may be cheaper to get an eBay tank.........
 

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Discussion Starter #7
66Sprint said:
MEK it is then..... Of course, at the current price for MEK, it may be cheaper to get an eBay tank.........
I agree finding a new one would the way to go, but I don't wanna pay 200+ for one

I lost out on a really nice cb550 super sport tank a couple of days ago. Sucked.

I love por-15 I did two tanks with it and both of my hot rods frames with their other products.

Thanks I'll see how much mek is around here and see what I come up with
 

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POR15 makes a kit with the stripper for previous crappy seal jobs. I can't comment on how it works but I've never heard anybody say anything bad about their other products so that leads to me to believe it should work. My tank isn't coated but it's rusty so it needs to be sealed. I won't even consider anything besides POR15.
 

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mopar_man said:
POR15 makes a kit with the stripper for previous crappy seal job
Guess what that stripper is? Yes, MEK! POR15 offers a stripper kit specifically for Kreem because the failure rate is so high for that product. What does that tell you? I consider Kreem a 1970's product that has been far surpassed by POR15. :idea:
 

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i've heard a coat hanger and bending it so it grabs a good chunk of kream will pull it out

somewhere i have a pic of a triple member with two enormous sheets of it.
 

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JeyLux said:
How do i get this crap out?
Just use the tank like normal filling it with cheap fuel and that KREEM will peel and clog your petcock in no time. :shock:
 

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Gentlemen, again, Kreem is completely, quickly, and easily dissolved with MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) purchased from any large hardware store. It's sold on quarts or gallons, it's expensive and nasty to use even outdoors, and it absolutely works. :)
 

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I just got rid of a Kreem liner by first scratching the heck out of the inside of the tank with a screwdriver to break up the liner. I then ran about 20 drywall screws and water through it (massive chunks came out with just water). I then let vinegar sit in it for hours, rotating every hour or so. I dumped this out and put one quart of acetone and the screws back in and let it set for an hour, shake, an hour, shake, etc. for a whole evening. The tank was very clean after this and I will install a POR-15 kit this evening.

I didn't use MEK because my workspace is in my apartment and that stuff is nasty (and expensive).
 

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As long as you follow the recommended guidelines and use it in a free air environment, (I like upwind out side) I don't think MEK is that much worse than any other solvent that actually works worth a crap.. got a gallon for about 15 bucks the other day.
 

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call the mfg, I have once some years ago and they were very helpful.
 

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I think your subject topic is very accurate. I used Kreem five years ago. No problems at all. I took my time and followed instructions very carefully. Messy - YES, did I almost seal off the elbow shaped drains that connect the two sides of the tank together- YES, Is there an easier way to seal a tank- probably. But it sounds like the tank you have someone didn't follow the instructions very well.

Just my 2 cents.
 

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cbrace0012 said:
I just got rid of a Kreem liner by first scratching the heck out of the inside of the tank with a screwdriver to break up the liner. I then ran about 20 drywall screws and water through it (massive chunks came out with just water). I then let vinegar sit in it for hours, rotating every hour or so. I dumped this out and put one quart of acetone and the screws back in and let it set for an hour, shake, an hour, shake, etc. for a whole evening. The tank was very clean after this and I will install a POR-15 kit this evening.

I didn't use MEK because my workspace is in my apartment and that stuff is nasty (and expensive).
Another good way to shake a tank is to wrap & tape it well in a blanket and wedge it into your cloths dryer, turn the dryer on and walk away: hence, a good vibrabur machine. Filled with nuts and bolts and some soapy water is a decient rust remover....maybe creme too.
 

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RicH2 said:
Another good way to shake a tank is to wrap & tape it well in a blanket and wedge it into your cloths dryer, turn the dryer on and walk away: hence, a good vibrabur machine. Filled with nuts and bolts and some soapy water is a decient rust remover....maybe creme too.
According to your local fire marshall, this is an efficient way to blow you and your dryer to fancy little bits. Rusty tanks, however well they've been rinsed, have residual fuels which could ignite due to static electricity generated in the one-way rotational spinning. I won't tell you that I've not done this, but what I've read from restoration sources I'll never do that technique again: too much to risk if even a "small" fire is started.
 

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As earlier stated MEK (methyl ethyl ketone)
 

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MilestoGo said:
RicH2 said:
Another good way to shake a tank is to wrap & tape it well in a blanket and wedge it into your cloths dryer, turn the dryer on and walk away: hence, a good vibrabur machine. Filled with nuts and bolts and some soapy water is a decient rust remover....maybe creme too.
According to your local fire marshall, this is an efficient way to blow you and your dryer to fancy little bits. Rusty tanks, however well they've been rinsed, have residual fuels which could ignite due to static electricity generated in the one-way rotational spinning. I won't tell you that I've not done this, but what I've read from restoration sources I'll never do that technique again: too much to risk if even a "small" fire is started.
A fair warning no doubt...but.....

Take a tank that has been sitting empty for years and/or has been recently rinced thoroughly and blown dry.....get a match, spark, paper wad flame, whatever and try your best to get a pop.......I've never been able too.

Also, keep in mind that the dryer process includes soapy water. And, If you don't like the nuts & bolts then use gravel.
 
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