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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tank is in really great shape, minus the gas stain pictured. Any suggestions for removing it without scratching or messing up the original paint? I'm all ears...

CB350 Tank.jpg

Cheers,

neuby43
 

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Are you sure that's stain and not worn off paint? Modern ethanol fuel is extremely caustic on painted surfaces and I kinda doubt that the clear coat from that original paint job is ethanol safe.

I would try wet sanding it and see if that helps.
 

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I've lessened fuel stains using Maguilars (sp) paint restoring compound. It wont be a huge improvement, but better than nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Are you sure that's stain and not worn off paint? Modern ethanol fuel is extremely caustic on painted surfaces and I kinda doubt that the clear coat from that original paint job is ethanol safe.

I would try wet sanding it and see if that helps.
It's likely worn off paint from newer fuel. I'll probably try some (very) light wet-sanding and see what happens. Thanks!
 

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I've had pretty good luck with Meguiar's Scratch X, but if that stain goes all the way through, there's not much you can do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've had pretty good luck with Meguiar's Scratch X, but if that stain goes all the way through, there's not much you can do.
Awesome, thanks. The reviews on that product are really good, so I ordered some. I'm just not sure how deep that damage goes past the clear coat of the tank...
 

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Good luck with it - hopefully it's just surface staining. The best protection for gas spills on your tank is a coat or two of a high-quality carnauba wax.
Even better, once you get it as clean as you can, is a two-part urethane clear coat. Assuming it is compatible with the paint, that is (probably not). It is available in a special rattle can, which mixes the two parts; then you throw away what you don't use, as it sets up in the can.
 

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Even better, once you get it as clean as you can, is a two-part urethane clear coat. Assuming it is compatible with the paint, that is (probably not). It is available in a special rattle can, which mixes the two parts; then you throw away what you don't use, as it sets up in the can.
SprayMAX 2K is the 2-part rattle can clear, read up on it and if you do use it get a good respirator from an auto body supply shop, its nasty stuff but works great against fuel and lasts.
 

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I've always had excellent results with SprayMAX 2K myself. Very durable clear coat.

 

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Just my opinion, but trying to rattle can clear coat over nice factory paint is risking ruining it. Personally, I wouldn't attempt it.
 

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The streaking may rub out to an extent, around the cap is where the paint has been dissolved off. I would compound it carefully first and see what you get. I don't think I'd try to clear it. Where the paint is gone, it's not gonna get any greener, but a good polishing would prob make a nice looking original paint tank with patina. Wax well.
If I were going to clear coat it, I'd paint it first...
 

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Just my opinion, but trying to rattle can clear coat over nice factory paint is risking ruining it. Personally, I wouldn't attempt it.
Exactly - when I repainted my 450, the modern primer turned the original paint to alligator hide, and I had to strip it bare. Same may be true of the SprayMAX (I didn't recall the name before). You can try a spot on the tank tunnel, to see if the paint there reacts. The stuff is not cheap, so you'd be out more than a few $ if it fails.
 

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NO!!!!!
Do not wet sand!!!
That color is Candy Bacaus Olive..
It is a blue with small silver flake covered with a YELLOW (not gold) candy!!!
If you wetsand it.. all your gonna do is remove the yellow candy, revealing the blue..
I am in the process of breaking this color "code".. my wife loves it so I have to paint her 450 at least as close as I can get to it..
I am new to 70s Hondas and recently discovered why "orogional paint" is all the rage... it is nearly impossible to replicate..
Yes there r painters that can do it, but your gonna pay for their "research" and time they spent breaking that paint down.. then try to replicate it in newer paints..
I hate to be the bearer of bad news.. but what you have is the tinted top layers of the clear laquor missing from a chemical.. be it fuel or some crap they put in the fuel..
So far ..the closest "candy" I have found is a blend of House of Kolor Pagan Gold and a Yellow....over a blue base and small silver matalics added...
Still not 100% perfect.. but getting there.. this is the same "candy yellow" they used on A LOT of different colors..
Silver-white base .. gave u gold
Red base.. gave u orange
If you do a search here (and can still see photos- damn photobucket)...
Do a search here "candy bacaus olive paint"...you will see what I am taking about

Here
http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/1-project-logs/83969-72-candy-bacchus-olive-help.html
 

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I bought this tank (already dented) to "brake down" and attempt to replicate.. the Metalics reflect gold and green.. basically silver and blue flake covered with the gold candy.. IMG_4328.jpg IMG_4330.jpg
What is on the paper is candy wet sanded off
 

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Candy colors were really popular 'back in the day'; now you know why they became less popular. Reproducing the candy gold on my 450 took a careful selection of base, color, and color in clear coat. Of course, I had an unfaded NOS tin to compare as I went along.
 
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