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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
These switches in most cases need to be completely dis-assembled and cleaned. There's nothing wrong with the design it's just that they are not sealed and exposed to water and dirt on a regular basis. Considering they're all 30-40 years old it's no surprise there's corrosion causing bad contacts and electrical issues.
This is easiest done with the switches removed and on a table, but it can be done on the bike.
This is a good time also to refinish the switch pod housings also if you wish
Right switch pod has more wiring and switches[attachment=34:3906faxs]201_4629.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=32:3906faxs]201_4630.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs]starter lead was already broken off[attachment=33:3906faxs]201_4631.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] but see all the dirt?
It's mostly a case of dis-assembly being careful to watch exactly where each part, ball and spring go, take pictures as you go. The run/kill switch can't be removed from the housing without unsoldering the wires.[attachment=30:3906faxs]201_4601.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] The switch knob is held on with a circlip that comes off easily and is a real booger to put back in.[attachment=31:3906faxs]201_4600.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] After you've stripped it down scrub it out with soap and water. This is the dirt and corrosion you'll see. [attachment=29:3906faxs]201_4603.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=28:3906faxs]201_4604.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] Starting with the Run/Kill switch disassemble it completely[attachment=27:3906faxs]201_4622.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] clean everything, sand the contacts with #600 paper and lubricate it all with di-electric grease[attachment=26:3906faxs]201_4623.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] As mentioned assembly is a booger since you've cleaned up the spring and ball and they are working now :lol: Assemble it all and upside down pushing against the knob add the washer, position the circlip and pry it into place, took me @10 tries before I got it.
Now on to the headlight switch. There is a brass contact bar that slides across the contact posts[attachment=25:3906faxs]201_4596.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=24:3906faxs]201_4597.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] One has 4 contacts, the other 3. The 4 contact one is for the headlight control and the 3 contact one is for the charging system over-ride on high beam. If you are running the modification for the charging system you can cut the White and White/Yellow wires off the switch and eliminate them from the bar harness completely. [attachment=23:3906faxs]201_4599.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=22:3906faxs]201_4610.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs]The contact bar will be corroded as are the contact sliders and need to be sanded perfectly clean and lubed with di-electric grease to insure good connections[attachment=21:3906faxs]201_4618.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=20:3906faxs]201_4620.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] This is a good time to clean the other contacts and add "liquid electrical tape" to the solder connections, assuming you've cleaned the corrosion off of them[attachment=19:3906faxs]201_4624.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] Now reassemble the sliders onto the contact bar noting which fits where and add the black plastic holder, install the spring and ball and pop back into the housing. Add the brackets and screws and that part is done[attachment=18:3906faxs]201_4625.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=17:3906faxs]201_4626.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=16:3906faxs]201_4627.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=15:3906faxs]201_4628.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] Now is the time to make sure the switch actually functions correctly both electrically and mechanically. Mechanically you have to push the switch down in the housing to turn the headlight off. This may require you bending the arm or the plate inside to fix.[attachment=14:3906faxs]201_4629.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] Electrically use a VOM and check resistance from the Black wire to the Brown/White, Blue and White in they're respective switch positions and the Black to Black/White for the Run switch. You should have less than a .5 ohm resistance. More means go back and clean some more.
The starter switch is a grounding switch. I cheated here and used the lower half of another pod since the wire was broken off the original and I didn't feel like soldering it back on.[attachment=13:3906faxs]201_4630.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] After taking the brackets off the switch just pulls up and out.[attachment=12:3906faxs]201_4631.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=1:3906faxs]201_4634.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=0:3906faxs]201_4633.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] Sand, clean, lube and re-assemble. Test for resistance from the Yellow/Red wire to ground when the switch is pushed, should be less then .5 ohm
Now the left switch pod[attachment=11:3906faxs]201_4606.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=10:3906faxs]201_4607.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] Disassemble[attachment=9:3906faxs]201_4608.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=8:3906faxs]201_4609.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] This is the same basic process as the right side of cleaning, sanding contacts, lubing everything with dielectric grease,[attachment=7:3906faxs]201_4635.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] sealing the solder joints with liquid electrical tape,[attachment=6:3906faxs]201_4636.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs] assembling [attachment=5:3906faxs]201_4637.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=4:3906faxs]201_4638.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=3:3906faxs]201_4639.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs][attachment=2:3906faxs]201_4640.JPG[/attachment:3906faxs]and testing with a VOM for less than .5 ohms.
 

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1972 CB350K4
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Re: Rebuilding 350 Switch Pods

Does anyone have a thread/size for these little flat head phillips screws? I dont have mine apart, and am going to order them ahead of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Rebuilding 350 Switch Pods

5mm x 25mm
You can look up specific parts using the online Honda fiches like this one http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_se ... &mfg=Honda
You listed your bike as a 1973 CB350K4 :?: The 73 model would be a 350G with a disc front brake. The K4 would be a 1972. Maybe you have a 72 that was registered late as a 73. Check the VIN plate on the steering head. http://www.motorera.com/honda/h0350/sport350.htm

Oh, Welcome aboard :) We'd appreciate a post over in "Member Intro's" to let everyone know a bit about you and the bike. Pictures are always good too. :D Might even stick a pin in the Member Map and find who is nearby
 

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1972 CB350K4
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Re: Rebuilding 350 Switch Pods

thanks, yes, that's exactly what happened with the year.

The screws I'm talking about are the tiny flat head phillips that hold down the small plates on the inside of the switch assembly, I'm certain I'm going to have to destroy one to get it out, and I re-soldered the wiring for the headlamp slightly backwards when I re-built them earlier this summer.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Rebuilding 350 Switch Pods

Those screws :eek: I don't know what size they are other than tiny. Maybe 3mm or 2.5's There's no listing for them wince Honda never intended for us to repair them. I checked a couple of 60's part breakdown manuals and one shows the screws but no size listed.
 

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Re: Rebuilding 350 Switch Pods

My 360 pod was not rebuildable. The plastic they used inside to retain switches and elements just crumbled and dissolved. The older stuff seems to be made of longer lasting material than the Later 70's equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: Rebuilding 350 Switch Pods

I think all of the 350 pods are metal, plastic is cheaper but deteriorates over time and weather conditions. My CM pods are plastic too.
 

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Re: Rebuilding 350 Switch Pods

My pods on the outside are metal, but the switch mechanisms were made of dissolving plastic. The starter switch broke, as typical, but in attemptong to repair it, the entire retainer and little positioning bits dissolved.

I replaced the POD with one from a CB600, successfully, but you can tell as the kill switch is low and wide, not like the original. It works, that's what counts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Rebuilding 350 Switch Pods

Re-installing the wiring into the handle bars
It can be a real PITA but it's not hard if you do this.
Take a heavy string and tie some weight on one end of it[attachment=6:3iurgstf]201_5249.JPG[/attachment:3iurgstf] Now insert it into the bar end hole[attachment=5:3iurgstf]201_5250.JPG[/attachment:3iurgstf] and wiggle it until you can pull it out the center hole[attachment=4:3iurgstf]201_5251.JPG[/attachment:3iurgstf] Tape up any damage to the outer sheath cover. Tie the non-weighted end of the string to the harness and wrap the string tightly around the wires until the string and last connector are wrapped[attachment=3:3iurgstf]201_5252.JPG[/attachment:3iurgstf] Now wrap the harness and string with electrical tape very tightly[attachment=2:3iurgstf]201_5253.JPG[/attachment:3iurgstf] This is done so the pulling on the string will distribute the pressure evenly w/o damaging the actual wires. Start pulling the string while working the harness thru the hole, it tries to get caught on the edges, don't just pull on the string[attachment=1:3iurgstf]201_5255.JPG[/attachment:3iurgstf] And after a couple of minutes of fiddling and wiggling the end of the harness comes out and just continue to work it until the switch pod will drop into place w/o crushing the harness[attachment=0:3iurgstf]201_5254.JPG[/attachment:3iurgstf]
 

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Re: Rebuilding 350 Switch Pods & Installing wiring in the Ba

I somehow missed this post when you originally created it, glad I found it now. Great write up Jim, this is going to be a great help to me and others. Mine are dirty and in hard shape but I believe they can be brought back to look and work decent. Thanks for posting this, pictures are great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: Rebuilding 350 Switch Pods & Installing wiring in the Ba

Thanks Perry, It's one of the silly things that gets forgotten by people restoring or reviving old bikes. It's easy to see the obvious faults on the outside but there are so many posts about electrical issues that I thought since I was repairing the harness on the CL and had bad resistance readings thru all of the switches I would document the process.
 
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