[B40dash8]

Thanks for the response and time, I picked this up off amazon.

Digital Micrometer, Professional Inch/Metric Thickness Measuring Tools 0.00005"/0.001 mm Resolution Thickness Gauge, Protective Case with Extra Battery: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Digital Micrometer, Professional Inch/Metric Thickness Measuring Tools 0.00005"/0.001 mm Resolution Thickness Gauge, Protective Case with Extra Battery: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

hoping it will be large enough to measure what I have to. I will definitely blow out and oil lines and channels that I can find. Puller should be coming today. They lied about yesterday 😂. The molybdenum grease did come though. Also waiting for the engine assembly oil to come but that’s not important right now. Once I get the stator and flywheel off it will be down to getting the cases open. Trying to think of a way to do it. I’m not sure how strong those brackets are for the engine mounts. Would hate to crack one of them off buy pulling on them with a strap. Maybe just will try using a deadblow hammer and see how that goes. Been watching YouTube vids but a lot of the videos skip the actual part On how they got the case split.

I did see one video where this guy used “three bond” to seal the cases back up. I guess that will be some more research hopefuly after a successful repair.

 

[DD23]

A "span" of only 1 inch, 25.4mm.

Is that correct ?

Honda bond.

Any USA products that will soften/attack/dissolve that black sealer but leave the alloy alone ?

Scrape a bit off to estimate how good a glue it is and if any liquid will attack it.

We had a real battle with the lads car sump even being ultra carefull.

Really tough black sealer, a very good glue !

New sump, it was rotten anyway and not worth repairing even if we got it off damage free. Thin Italian steel, very little strength, badly twistef/deformed. Scrap. It's a flower pot these days.

 

[B40dash8]

I had a successful evening after work removing the engine from the frame. I’ve never done it before to any of my motorcycles in the past. Got it out on the stand. It’s ready to be ripped into…..I think. Figured I would make a video.

 

[DD23]

Hi b40,

Progress, it's out...

Didn't see stator off but you said it was...

The lower c/case engine mount to frame is an opportunity, is there a similar opportunity at the front for the lower c/case.....?

Early days but any advancement on that black sealer removal/unsticking...?

Undo yes, by two turns, but I would leave the lower c/case bolts in, for now....

Take your time...

 

[DD23]

Pictures, m's phone and mine mated last night.

Pictures very clear now, saw two white marks across c/cases near balance area...

Very skitty zoom now though that's a pita...

That arrow head on one of the rocker arm pads, is that pointing the wrong way ?

Wear, ridging, blue ?

But all that's for later.....

 

[B40dash8]

I have had good success today splitting the cases! I used some brain power and came up with a way to get them split without even hitting the cases or prying on them. They came right apart incredible easily. Got got the crank out and saw my problem. The screws either have been loosened out or ripped out. The crank threads are still perfect but the screws are toast. I lightly filed down the burs on the crank. Luckily there was no damage or burs where the bearings ride for the starter clutch.

One thing that is troubling me is that I don’t know if there is supposed to be a dowel pin on the “crank weight” that the starter clutch gets lined up with according to the manual. I will post what it says in the manual. I will have to research if there even is supposed to be a dowel pin. I do hope it didn’t get sheared off in its battle of the starter clutch. Here are some pictures of how I got the cases apart also. I’ll post other pictures of the engine internals also.

 

[DD23]

Good news !!!

Will look at pictures later...

I would expect a "pin" to aid drive, as long as there is a matching hole in the starter ring that drives the crank...see CMSNL views...

 

[DD23]

No crank views on CMSNL...maybe partzilla or other...

 

[B40dash8]

Nope I looked also. And if there is it’s not going to show that much detail. I also checked the pictures of cranks on eBay but most of them have the starter clutch bolted on and you can’t see if there’s a dowel or not. I don’t think there is. I’m pretty sure it just bolts up. Next research is to learn how to seal the case the proper way and how to time everything for the installation. The crank, balancer, and cam all need to go in a certain way I’m pretty sure. I will have to study on the manuals for specific details. Other than that it’s a waiting game after spending close to $200 in gaskets, oil seals, clutch starter springs, and the bolts. Still need to get the head gasket. Trying to find out if the cb450 head gasket will fit. I hear they do.

 

[DD23]

I looked at all the models shown in the CMSNL.com cmx450 section .

Some crank and pistons views, no pin seen. Your crank just has the 3 bolt holes ? Starter unit has 4, the 3 screw holes and a possible pin hole ?

Anyways may I ask please, your rods have an oil hole on the big end area rear, and are ink stamp numbers seen in the flat rear face please ?

One gudgeon oil pin hole at front side ?

Go take a look on CMSNL

How is the starter clutch, cracked ?

May I ask, how much is a good second hand crank, with shells ?

You reckon your crank good to take new starter clutch ?

Probably no kick start option using off the shelf stuffff

Over

 

[01-7700]

@B40dash8 - Thanks for keeping both this site and the Rebel site updated with your progress. I used to have a CMX450 so I'm very interested.

 

[B40dash8]

Hey! Again thank you for the response! I do not see a pin or pin hole. I saw another post on the rebel 450 forum of a guy asking the same question going nuts because he didn’t see a dowel pin either.
I have spent a lot of money In parts, gaskets, and oil seals. I’m just waiting for everything to arrive. This engine is getting love. This $&@&$ Thing better start and run right when I’m done! I took some pictures of the crank for you DD. The starter clutch looks good to my eyes. I don’t think Leo (the rebel God) had any exceptions after showing him some pictures of it. The starter clutch is not cracked. I purchased new springs for the starter clutch. The caps and rollers look exceptional to my eyes. I have not priced a crank and shells. I’m going to take my chances with this one. The threads on the crank where the bolts securing starter clutch are just fine. I will run a tap through them just in case. Nope. No kickstart. Pretty lame. My old 76 360t had electric start and kick start. Not this bike. How weak.

Over

 

[B40dash8]

You’re welcome Keith. I’m just very appreciative of the help from all you guys.

 

[DD23]

The plot thickens...

Cm200 shows a drive pin as does cb250/400 n and early cm250 and 400 ?

Anyways if no hole in crank then no pin

 

[B40dash8]

Update: Still waiting on parts mostly from Partzilla and other various parts. My friend at work is taking the cylinder to be honed at his machine shop. I’ve installed the gear shifter seal and starter idle shaft gear so far. Just been cleaning the gasket surfaces lately and whatever else needs polishing / cleaning. As a fyi I’m in Newyork in the US, I ordered parts from cmsnl and they were the first ones to deliver parts basically took two days to get here while I’m sitting here waiting for most of the other parts to come from the US. I would of ordered Mostly all the parts from them if I new they would get here so fast.

 

[B40dash8]

So I’ve been reading ahead in the book to see how the balancer countershafts, and crank have to be aligned when putting it back together. The book says to reference the index mark on the crankshaft. Is this index mark the same as having it at top dead center? My crankshaft does not have any index line on it. I looked at a crank on eBay and it does have a index line. Mine does not.

I see the TC and TH lines on the counterbalances have to be matched horizontal/even to the case edge but no index line on the crank. Just making sure it’s the same as having the crank at tdc with the T mark on the flywheel to the index/arrow on the case by the flywheel. Has anyone come across a lack of index line on their crank? Also do these lines have to be absolutely critically straight to the edge or can be just a hair off?

** If you’re reading this and are going to split your cases make sure after you touch anything after you split your cases that you record and take pictures of how the TH/index line on the rear counter balancer and the TC/index line on the front counter balancer are aligned to the crank when the crank is at TDC. Referring to the TC and TH lines being flush with the outside case edge. Well Atleast that’s what I get out it from the books are saying.

 

[DD23]

Post pictures of the crank, flywheel end on left etc...mark on right inner web, clutch side...?

 

[B40dash8]

Posting a YouTube video to show the current progress of the bottom end I’m up to:

 

[B40dash8]

Update: Got the cylinder back from getting honed at my friends machine shop. They came out good and I just got done painting it. There was little damage to the bottom of the left piston from hitting the loose starter clutch but it’s not bad so I’m happy about that. It could have been a lot worse.

 

[B40dash8]

Hi! Posting a update . I got the bike back together and it runs great now. Thank you to everyone who helped me. I really appreciate it!