[B40dash8]

All good my brother. Surely your my and the others savior for helping us! I made a engine stand. Have no idea if it’s going to work until I take the engine out of the frame. I used the wood I had lying around. These days metal prices are through the roof so that was out of the question. Figure I just flip the engine and strap it or bolt it to a base with the engine on the stand. When the engine is on it I could always add sides to keep it from moving back and fourth. I probably just could of used a milk crate but I was bored. Geez I just wish there was a good decent bottom end available but nope. I had to buy the bike that was only made for 2 years with no parts available.

 

[DD23]

Cool, making anything that is going to help you has got to be a good idea.

Remember when the engine is out you will be working on the engine upsidedown.

In your "down time" waiting for tools to arrive, study CMSNL for what's involved with removing sump, like dowel positions etc..

Take your time.

Come back when your ready.

Any chance of some clearer pictures please ?

A clear picture of clutch side to show colour of sealer used with the horizontal crank case joint would be good.

Dd23

 

[B40dash8]

Hey. There is a brownish sealant and looks like black rtv. So someone has split these cases before. I wonder what that was for. Still waiting for the flywheel puller to come. That should be here tomorrow. Been reading up on the rebel Forum but not many people seem to tackle this job. I have the clymer manual and the Honda service manual to go by. It’s not very specific because the language is written as if your a master mechanic and know all the lingo. I just wish there were YouTube videos to follow.

 

[DD23]

Could you post a picture of the sealant seen please.

 

[B40dash8]

Hey. Yes I will in this post. I took off the starter, oil pump, and cleaned around the cases behind the starter. Waiting for the flywheel. Thinking it was definitely apart before.

 

[DD23]

Informative pictures...

Yes it's been apart before. I can see traces of honda bond, AND that blask sealer.

That black sealer is very very good at gluing stuff together...

Locate the dowels between c/cases using cmsnl.

Remove gear selector shaft from bottom c/case.

Check cmsnl to make sure all stuff removed to seperate c/cases

Come back when flywheel and stator is off.

 

[B40dash8]

Thanks for the response! I’ve been watching various YouTube vids on different engines. I’m wondering if I should be looking to clean the valves and seating surface of the head. Should I be looking to remove the valves to clean them? I don’t have a valve spring compressor though. Should I look into getting one to do this job? Just not sure if I should or not worry about it. I do know my left cylinder was only showing 145psi and the left was at 160 or so. So while it’s apart I was wondering if I should start looking to see why the left side was lower. I have to see if new piston rings are even available or not. My scare is I spend money and work doing all this and then get the engine back together and it not run Like it should. I guess my confidence is not high right now with a positive outcome. Maybe I’m thinking to far ahead of myself

 

[Emil]

Hey B40dash8, I just saw this CMX450 on Craigslist in Columbia MO & thought that you might want another option. Running for $2800.
I forget where you're at, but thought it might be something that you might consider.
Your project is something that we're all learning from, but just in case.....

columbia, MO motorcycles/scooters - by owner - craigslist

columbia, MO motorcycles/scooters - by owner - craigslist

columbiamo.craigslist.org

 

[DD23]

Hi Emil,
Yes, it's good that many eyes are looking and learning, which is a bye product of the forum.

I am learning as well, old dog etc...

Good pictures are so informative.

Hi b40,

First of Feb already, my how times flies...

New day, new problems, new challenges, new battles to be fought.

I have a feeling having seen the black sealer that this engine may fight you every inch of the way...

You may have to be inventive, use novel techniques, make rather than buy tools needed...but you do have a mighty welder and, like me, have a small scrap pile, a resource from which to make stuff.

You may have to think outside the box for the challenge to come...

Try and think how "Mr. Newton" can help you.

Back in a while.

 

[DD23]

Cmx450 c rebel 1986 g California

Crank case seperater tools are available but....

I assume at the rear of the engine there is an engine mount bolt involved with the lower crank case.

I cannot see a similar mounting point at the front involved with the lower case.

The casings should be considered to be FRAGILE.

Pictures of engine mounting points please.

Nice clear picture of clutch nut, camshaft and rocker arm pads please.

The piston rings and valves are not important AT THIS STAGE, but find out cost and availability for when they come into importance.

Research razor blades but make a good holder so you won't ask yourself " were the hell is all this red paint coming from, I haven't been using any paint today ? ".

Over...

 

[B40dash8]

Thanks for that Emil. But that price is insane to me. I was going to buy another 450 for 1500 with 5k miles but I would of had to drive 4 hours away. 8 hour roundtrip without the loading time. I really didn’t want a second 450 that could possibly develop the same problems and go down that rabbit hole again. I see a couple on fb marketplace for over 2000. IMO the bike is not worth over 2k yet. But that’s just me. Still waiting for the flywheel puller to come and then it will be back to working on the bike. Thanks again

DD I will get those pictures for you today. I’m hoping there will be a way to pull those cases apart. In the mean time I have possibly located another engine. Just waiting to see if it’s going to be shipped by the sellers shipping price. So I will have a project and if it happens to fail,I’ll still have a engine to use for the bike . Although I am not counting my chickens before they hatch.

 

[B40dash8]

Hello. Got some pictures for you. Still waiting for the clutch puller. I have razors and a holder. Started to take off the old gasket remnants. Got the pictures for you that you requested

 

[DD23]

Thanks b40 but pictures still a bit fuzzy.

Razor blade to slit black sealer between crank cases.

In UK safety razor blades have a steel "u" shaped steel strip pressed on covering one of the cutting edges.

You could, using a small small hammer, tap in the very thin blade via the protective strip into the black sealer to help release sealer grip...

 

[B40dash8]

I don’t know why the pictures are fuzzy I have one of the best iPhones there is lol. I tried to make them as clear as possible. Sorry they are showing up fuzzy. ….Flywheel puller didn’t show up yet. Took the gearshift linkage out, oil pump, front sprocket, not sure if any other trans parts have to come out as of right side cc. I don’t know if it’s me but these manuals are not specific at all.

 

[01-7700]

pictures are clear for me

 

[DD23]

That picture is a bit fuzzy also but shows enough detail for me to say that that side is ready as far as splitting the c/cases.

I struggle to take clear pictures with this phone and my digital camera, but a box browny takes clear pictures.

When the lower c/case is ready to take off, the crank will remain in place but the gearbox shafts may want to lift a bit, so push or tap ( with wood) them back into place gently.

Post picture of flywheel side when ready.

You did take a very clear picture of the balance DOT some time ago...

 

[Robert minor]

Hi,

Vidios are great sometimes, but sometimes still pictures are better.

Are all valve springs fitted with closer coils next to the head ?

Con rods, any small oil holes seen on the rods ?

Don't be dispondent.That knock is quite loud, and what of the glitter seen in the oil. You have not found the culprit yet...

Did you align knock to crank position ?

I have seen the white marks on the flywheel, so you check ign timing, you said a non standard cdi and considered detonation....wrong sort of noise.

Rod bearings, any up and down play in rod big end bearings ?

Any piston rock side to side when rods held tight , little end play ?

How about the cam, check for stretched cam chain put a mic on the lobes and bearings

 

[jayel2]

Picture are very clear, couldn't be any better.

 

[B40dash8]

Thanks. I don’t have a micrometer but I do have a digital caliper. Can get I get the same readings using a caliper ? May have to hit up harbor freight or Amazon for a micrometer.

 

[DD23]

If you are investing in a mic, make sure it will span diameters etc. such as your big end and main bearing journals etc..

You will be discovering "grading" shortly.

A cheap digital Vernier is not that good in my experience. I zero it, measure, rezero it, it never goes back to zero, so is not accurate for accurate measurement to 3 decimal places metric.

Also research " plastigauge" and its potential uses/ problems.

M is calling this evening and will look at your pictures with his phone and eyes which are much younger and better than mine, for comparison etc..

I reckon I can see bluing and browning on cam parts, a sign of overheating. Maybe oilway to cam area are blocked by that black sealer, will shall see.

Feedback when flywheel and stator is off.

Any good crank's available ?