Take a look at the older CB600 F4i rear sets. The mounting points should (SHOULD) be able to be bolted to the point along the frame tube on the bracket that supports the passenger pegs. The shift link should (SHOULD) fit right onto the shift shaft and, the right one should be able to be easily modded to fit the stock 450 rear brake rod with the addition of a bell crank or modification of the brake actuation mechanism.
I'd stay away from the raask rearsets, they are ok, but the brake linkage is a complete joke, shift side is fine. I'm thinking about moving them forward a couple of inches, the passenger peg brackets while convenient are not ideal.
For the amount of messing around I should have bought some cheap used sportbike takeoffs and made something myself, I may still do it in which case I fully recommend Raask, and I'll sell you mine!!!
Here is what I did to fix the brake linkage, the rod is a geometry proving piece, I'm making a replacement out of aluminum pipe and heim joints.
There's more on there-- even a set of Vortex left and right sets for $39.95 each
What guys do that race in Sportsman 500 (AHRMA) is cut the passenger foot peg bracket parallel to the frame tube about the distance from the triangle shaped opening. Then, they pry the two plates apart and fit those two mounting brackets in between the plates (requires filing the peg mount bosses down). Then, they drill the plates and run bolts through em. The left side is pretty much a straight hook up to the shift shaft. The right brake requires some rigging and modification to make what is originally a hydraulic system to a bellcrank/rod actuated system
ihatespeed, Looking at your setup, it apears you cut off the OEM brake pedal and added the verticle arm/lever to the outer most edge to clear the frame. The lever that the connecting rod mounts to was added correct?
Also I'm looking at the hight/length of both arms and the brake pedal length, assessing the leverage. I hope to have a set up the takes the same or less pedal pressure than original.
The controls I have lever on the inside of the peg mounting bracket, but this could still work running it off the bottom instead of the top, provided I can maintain decent ground clearence.
I'll have to heat and bend my brake pedal to get the kicker arm past it. Is that a common issue?
my kicker arm ticks my brake pedal, not enough to offend me yet.. and yes, I cut off the original brake pedal and welded on a new lever, I have since changed the mounting point to lower on the new lever as I felt that the travel was excessive, I think I have found a workable balance..
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