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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm having an issue with my CB350 rear wheel. I'm wondering if I forgot something when I rebuilt it, but hoping i didn't, and keeping my fingers crossed that i'm just reinstalling it wrong. however, i cannot find anything i'm doing wrong compared to the manual. Here's my situation:

Complete disassembly and reassembly of rear wheel. ripped old wheel completely down, removed all brake parts, removed bearings and assoiated collars and bushings. Pressed new bearings in, including the notoriously-lost bearing collar and spacer bushing. just reinstalled new shoes and springs. i don't have a rim on yet, waiting for parts from Buchanan's, so i'm working solely with hub and brake. when i install the hub, i'm pushing the axle from brake side, through tensioner bracket and swingarm, bushing, into brake plate, through bearings, bushing on chain side, tensioner bracket & swingarm, and nut and washer outside swingarm. When i torque the nut to roughly 1/2 spec'd torque (~30ft-lb), the hub will not rotate. am i missing something?

Each bearing appears to be flushly mounted, and there's a little bit of slop in spacing bushing (part 7 in pic). the brake-side bushing (part 3) is flush with the brake plate, and the drive-side bushing (part 5) is flush with the bearing's inner sleeve.

any ideas on why i'm binding up? 2015_03_14 Rear Brake.PNG 2015_03_14 Rear Wheel.PNG
 

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Part 3 goes inside the sprocket side bearing (part 20). it's not supposed to go on the brake side.

if you don't have Part 3 between part 7 and part 20, it's time to order new bearings and start over
 

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Part 3 goes inside the sprocket side bearing (part 20). it's not supposed to go on the brake side.

if you don't have Part 3 between part 7 and part 20, it's time to order new bearings and start over
OK, hold on a second. i think the numbers aren't as legible as they should be... and i want to make sure we're talking about the same parts, so i attached a new diagram of the Rear Wheel with RED numbers for each part. 2015_03_14 Rear Wheel 2.PNG

do you mean part "8" goes between part 7 and 20? and that the same part, "8," goes on the sprocket side? if that's what you mean, that is how i have it. furthermore, part 8 is in the exact same orientation as in the pic; if you think of it as a top-hat, the brim or base of the top hat is toward the center of the wheel and touching part 7, while the top of the top hat is actually through the inside diameter of bearing 20... on the sprocket side.

is that what you meant?
 

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ok yes, I misread the numbers...I thought the 8 was a 3

assuming then that assembly is done in proper order, the most common cause of what you are describing is either over or under installation of the bearings so that when torqued there is sideload on them.

part 7 should be touching on both sides and just barely be able to be moved axially but not at all side to side.
if there is any side to side play your bearings are either not in all the way or part 7 has been slightly deformed during removal. you also want to be careful you don't overseat the bearings

with the hub off the bike and the brakes off the hub, do the bearings rotate freely with your fingers with no binding?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok yes, I misread the numbers...I thought the 8 was a 3

assuming then that assembly is done in proper order, the most common cause of what you are describing is either over or under installation of the bearings so that when torqued there is sideload on them.

part 7 should be touching on both sides and just barely be able to be moved axially but not at all side to side.
if there is any side to side play your bearings are either not in all the way or part 7 has been slightly deformed during removal. you also want to be careful you don't overseat the bearings

with the hub off the bike and the brakes off the hub, do the bearings rotate freely with your fingers with no binding?
Both bearings spin freely. Part 7 does move a little. I can hear the hub up and try tapping in more. How far is far enough though? It appears that both bearings' outside surfaces are pretty close to flush with the hub casting. Do they need to be inset a bit?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
blow torch, huge socket, and a 5# sledge... she's pinning good now! thanks for the help!!! if anyone DOES know how far the bearings need to be in, with a quantifiable reference, it would be great to know!
 

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I do them by feel...start with the sprocket side and drive it in as far as it will go then tap the brake side bit by bit with a big hammer and a driver I made till they "feel right".

sometimes If I go too far in I'll lightly tap the INNER race on the sprocket side to loosen it up a bit...but I haven't had to do that in several years
 
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