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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm thinking it's the battery, but would like your guys' opinion...

I've had the battery tested, mind you, by 2 different places, both said the battery was good when they put 144 COld Cranking Amps on it for a few seconds.

After driving the bike, every night I put it on the Battery Tender. Every morning going to work, it Idles fine, never dies. On the way home it idles fine, until I get about 3/4 of the way home. Then it will stutter a bit here and there. If I go for a ride after work, it will most certainly die at a light somewhere. This makes me think the battery is slowly dying throughout the ride. The thing I don't understand is the battery being tested as fine. The charging system on my bike is good too, when I start it, sits at the battery voltage, and when I rev it up, goes to 14.4v. I checked all the jets on the carbs, all Clear. NO leaks anywhere, timing is good. Carbs are sycnched as well.

Confused :? ...Anything I am missing/overlooking?
 

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Have you checked the batteries voltage at rest as soon as you get home?? To see if the days riding is draining it..


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not yet, I'll check tomorrow when I get back from work after riding. I noticed one time after pulling it off the tender, checking the voltage, it was 13.4, the second I turned the key to ON, it dropped to 11.8. Is that normal?
 

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No, it is not. Your battery is not good, or you have a short somewhere that operates only while the key is on thereby draining the battery when in operation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Checked the water level, its good. I started it to go to work this morning, and it seems like it wants to die. Rough-ish idle. I also noticed the neutral light and headlight are flickering with the idling, don't remember them doing that before. I'm assuming battery at this point. Eventhough it was tested as good, could it still be bad? Also, what's the correct battery for this thing? I think I have a 9YB or something to that nature.

Thanks.
 

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My source says your CJ360 should be a 12N9 (whatever that means)..... my CB360 takes a YB12A.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's the battery I have. It's getting worse, can't get it to idle for longer than a few seconds now. White puffs of smoke coming out of the breather tube. It seems I can't get the revs down either, I wonder if I need a re-synch, but I fear worse.
 

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I don't see anything in what you've written to suspect a battery problem. why do you think the problem is electrical?
are there any more details you can provide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Doesn't seem to be electrical at this point. Possibly the carbs? Runs fine 1800-8000rpm, just can't get it to idle. All my jets are clear, diamphrams un-ripped. Can float height affect idle? Timing maybe? I might pull the carbs off and let them soak in chem dip for a while. I really hope its nothing major...
 

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diloret2 said:
All my jets are clear, ...

Jets are only half the equation - if you haven't already, you need to confirm that all the idle passages in the carb body are clear. Either using compressed air or a spray can of carb cleaner with the little red tube poked in one hole, and verify that fluid squirts out of ALL the other possible points. Trace the passages by following the bumps in the carb body casting.

Good luck.

Kirk
 

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Next time you're idling and it starts to stumble, try closing the choke to see if that makes any difference. It may help identify if its fuel starvation.

Also, like you said, check the float levels, they're very important.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I never thought about the air passages. That would kind of make sense too, because when I adjust the air screw, nothing really happens idle speed wise. How many passages are there? I tried it with the choke too, same deal. To be honest, when I have the choke on, not a whole lot has ever happened while its idling. I'll recheck the float level when I get the carbs off the bike next week. Hopefully its that simple!
 

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diloret2 said:
To be honest, when I have the choke on, not a whole lot has ever happened while its idling.
Is the choke lever even doing anything I wonder. Turning the choke 'on' or 'off' while idling will have an effect, so if its not doing anything I wonder if its stuck and thus creating an over rich condition when its warmed up. You wouldn't notice it as much when riding but it would want to stall when stopped at a light. When you take the carbs off to check the floats, ensure the choke plates and lever are working correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I ripped the carbs off today after work, dipped them in Chem Dip for a good hour each, rinsed them off, blew air through every hole I could find. Put them back on and BAM, idled like a champ. IN fact it idled in my driveway for 7 minutes, I timed it. Decided to take it for a ride. Ran great, but about half way through, got stopped at a light, started to stutter. Got to my destination and it died. Started it again, it started, but then died a few seconds later, same symptoms as before. I drove it home, (It ran spectacular throughout the RPM range) took the air screw needles all the way out, blew air in the hole, put the air screws back in, and it idled much better, not as good as when I first cleaned them, but better and not wanting to die. Is it possible there's something in the air passage that, when the engine gets hot, it gets hot as well, and melts a blockage into the airway? I noticed the airway is literally the size of a pin, so it would easily get clogged, I would think. The reason I ask, is the right carb had a black line right around where the tiny idle hole is. The line didn't come off with the chem dip, so I figured it was a discoloration, but maybe it something (can't imagine what) that melts when hot and clogs the hole? Can 30 Year old gas varnish re-heat? My next step is to take the carbs off again and try to reem the hole with a wire file to see if anything has built up in it. I might also take a wire brush to see if I can't get that black stuff off. It can't be anything from my fuel, I have a fuel filter. Sorry for the long explanation, but it's so friggin' confusing/frustrating!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, removed the carbs again today, and cleaned, and I mean CLEANED the living sh!t out of them. The things look brand new. Started it up, idled fine, again, just like before. Drove it for about 20 minutes, came home, started idling like crap and died. The RPM's are hanging a little too, but really very slightly. At this point, I have no idea. Do they need to be re-synched? Ignition Timing? Valve Adjustment? It's driving me crazy.
 

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sounds like you need to go through things systematically to eliminate possible causes
check and adjust valves
check and adjust cam timing and cam chain
do a compression test on engine
check and adjust ignition timing
synch carbs
adjust idle on carbs
check for intake leaks around rubber carb boots
check (clean replace air filter)
check for exhaust holes or leaks
if you do all the above in the order listed you'll fix your problem or identify something amis (like low compression in the engine)
 

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by the way, based on what you've described I'm guessing the most likely cause is low compression caused either by valves or rings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well I dropped it off to a retired Honda Motorcycle Mechanic. He thinks my Valves are mis-adjusted and my timings' off. Hopefully it's just that. He's gonna do a proper tune-up for me and see what happens!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That's all it was! My timing was way off, carbs needed re-balancing and my valves were super tight. Idles and runs like a champ now!
 
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