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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought my exhaust on my CJ360T was leaking but noticed today there was a few puffs of white smoke coming from the breather tube that comes from the top of the engine, not my exhaust, is this normal? It's not pouring out, it just looks like a random puff every once and a while. MY dad said it may be burning carbon and such off the top of the piston or valves and that's where it comes out. They bike sat for about 6-7 years and the carbs where FILTHY before I cleaned them, so I know those pistons and valves had gunk on them. He used to be into bikes when he was younger, Honda 4's, so I tend to believe him, but I'm always game for a second opinion.

Also, I noticed it pops/hisses every once and a while as well, do I need to re-adjust my valves or time her again?

Otherwise she runs like a raped ape!

Any help would be appreciated!

Thank You!

EDIT: I think I answered my own question after reading it. It's cold out, the air coming out is probably warm....could I be right? I've noticed the air before, but only at night after a ride...when it's colder. Never does it when it's warm out...
 

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Sensei
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Bad valve guides can allow a bit of the flame front to reach the top end oil when the exhaust valve opens.... This will usually show as blue-white smoke at the breather.... Same goes for bad rings except the "flame" goes downward scorching oil in the sump. any smoke then gets expelled out the breather...

What are your compression readings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't have any means of getting a compression reading to be honest. SO I'm not sure. It's only light white smoke, and it only does it when the outside air is cold and the bike warms up, so I figured it was just warmer than the ambient air around it. During the day, when it's warm, it doesn't do it. As far as the pop/hiss goes, I am thinking it's my timing since it only seems to do it at idle, but not when I'm riding at all. But, again, I know very little, so hopefully the bike's not about to blow up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I replaced all the seals on my carbs, finally, and threw in some new slow jets (believe it or not my local shop had some in stock) and no more popping or hissing! Random, but I'm OK with that! After replacing all my seals, I noticed a little fuel leaks out of the float overflow tube, so I ordered 2 new float valves, hopefully that'll stop it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Is there a way to adjust the float valves while the carbs are on the bike? I know I can swap the valves with them still on the bike. I'd like to do the same with the height adjustment as well.

Thanks!
 

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diloret2 said:
Is there a way to adjust the float valves while the carbs are on the bike? I know I can swap the valves with them still on the bike. I'd like to do the same with the height adjustment as well.

Thanks!
Sure you can. It's a little more work to get the screws off the bowls and tougher to see, But Honda mechanics around the world do it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yea, I've got it down to a science. I can get the bowls off, the floats and float valve all off while still on the bike. How would I adjust them without being able to tilt the carbs?
 

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diloret2 said:
Is there a way to adjust the float valves while the carbs are on the bike? I know I can swap the valves with them still on the bike. I'd like to do the same with the height adjustment as well.

Thanks!
I always adjust the floats with the carbs on the bike, using a clear tube inserted into the drain screw to see the fuel level. Can be a bit of a pain and messy at times, but I feel it is more accurate as you get to see exactly what the fuel level is.
 

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diloret2 said:
How do you do it with a tube? I've never seen/heard of doing it that way?

Thanks
I just cut out the bit in my KZ650 manual to show you how its done. Ignore the level they specify, as it will be specific to your bike. This is for a KZ650. They show a proper tool for doing it, but I just used a clear tube with a plastic fitting at the one end. The plastic end can then be screwed into the bowl drain hole. Hope this explains it. I think the "dry" method of measuring the float level will get you in the right area, but then you can fine tune it with this method.

Bit of a pain, but well worth it. Get the float level right and then sync the carbs and you'll notice a big improvement. I know I did on my KZ.

 

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diloret2 said:
That's pretty interesting, never seen that before. How do I know what my level measurement would be right for my bike?
Good question. In my KZ manual it states this measurement, but just looking at my Honda one and it just gives the other dry type measurement. So, it seems this type of measurement may not be useful for the Honda's :?

Sorry about that. I just assumed this data would be available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No that's cool. I still wanna try it just for the heck of it! I can do one before and after i adjust it, just to see the difference. Now is the reading I have for my float when the valve is closed, but not compressing the spring on the valve itself, right? PS HerrDeacon, nice bike in your avatar :)
 
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