Honda Twins banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Three days ago I drained my tank, rinsed it, filled it with distilled white vinegar, and let it sit overnight. The next day I threw in a handful of Sheetrock screws, shook it, topped it off with more vinegar and let it sit another night. Shook it again today, drained it, filled it with water, put in some baking soda, drained it after 20 mins and started to rinse it out. Flakes stopped coming out but the water would run clear or slightly orange. I looked inside and it looked like this:


Flash rust? I'm drying it now and spraying it with WD40. I don't understand why it rusted so much. I followed some instructions to the letter. I think I'm going to give it another go with evaporust.

Any idea why this happened?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
I think metal rescue works pretty well. I used it and it's the only thing I will use for rust problems.

When I was done I added Marvel Mystery Oil to coat the tank to prevent flash rusting.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Be sure to completely dissemble and clean petcock after rust treatment! I cleaned the petcock bowl but failed to remove it from tank. Next time tried to use reserve barely enough gas could run through the sludge to get me home. I was afraid I'd have to clean carbs, but dodged the bullet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,458 Posts
You can try what I did for better and faster results.

I mixed up some (a gallon or so) of 50/50 water and muriatic acid (you can get this from Home Depot or Lowes near the cement). Be sure to do this outside and wear some gloves, safety glasses, and a breathing
mask. The fume is rather noxious and could cause irritation.

Remove the petcock and tape up the opening.
Fill tank with the mixture and throw in a chain or some nuts and bolts tied to a string so that you can leave the string out of the tank for easy retrieval.
Shake the tank around a bit and make sure the chain or nuts/bolts get tossed around inside. Do this for about 15 minutes or so.
Drain. Rinse with water.
Drain. Mix up some water and baking soda and rinse the inside again with it.
Drain and rinse with water again.
Drain and dry it out. A heat gun or hair dryer would help.

Prep the tank with Marvel Mystery oil or something similar to prevent rusting.

This way you don't need to wait over night and giving time for more rust to appear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses. The shops are closing where I live so I ran to the nearest one and snagged some evaporust and marvel. Going to give it another go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
I use 18" of chain with nuts and bolts tightened thru the links. The lip on the Honda tank makes getting out the individual screws out very difficult. I've use the same chain for 5 tanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
729 Posts
metal bits with sharp corners can dent the tank inside, and make the outside paint crack.

ferrous bits are magnetic.

small steel balls may be better, a "spit" or attach tank to a cement mixer/old bike wheel and turn.

As to medium, after vinegar flushed out during the operation ( not left overnight ) some diesel along with cleaned dry balls, they are magnetic.

rust is also magnetic, so a diesel wash with a magnet dangled in the tank to collect the free floating around ( rust even fine rust will settle but you know what I means ) rust particles etc.

don't forget about cleaning the fuel filler cap as well as the tap, an inline fule filter is also a good thing once the tank is clean.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,863 Posts
you emptied the tank too soon
 
  • Like
Reactions: Samiam420

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,711 Posts
Vinegar will work although it takes a lot of time. Using Apple Cider vinegar will do better because of its higher acidity. A better alternative is using a rut killer like Ospho (or Sherwin Williams "Gem"). I used Gem on all of my parts and it did great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
623 Posts
Vinegar will work although it takes a lot of time. Using Apple Cider vinegar will do better because of its higher acidity. A better alternative is using a rut killer like Ospho (or Sherwin Williams "Gem"). I used Gem on all of my parts and it did great.
+1 on this. Ospho can be found at most hardware stores, runs about $11, and one container will de-rust several motorcycle tanks, all your old tools, the meat grinder your wife inherited from her grandmother, and pretty much everything else around the house. It converts surface rust from iron oxide (which will continue to rust) to iron phosphate (which won't). And it isn't anywhere near as dangerous as some of the other home-brewed rust treatments I've seen people suggest on this site. The active ingredient is phosphoric acid- look for this in any rust treatment you consider.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,495 Posts
I'm no fan of muriatic acid - that stuff is actually hydrochloric acid, and will f*** you up right away if you get any on you.
I use a different form of phosphoric acid, called Milk Stone Remover (MSR), available at Farm&Fleet, Tractor Supply, etc.
In the bottle, it's about 80% phosphoric acid, with orange dye. Dilute half/half with water, pour it into the tank, wait for a while.
Much safer than muriatic, if you get some on you there's plenty of time to get to the hose and rinse it off.
I keep a 40-gallon cooler of the stuff and process nearly every steel part with it. Hell on rust, easy on chrome.
As a degreed chemist (and experienced user), I can tell you that flash rust will begin immediately after treatment - the "iron phosphate won't flash rust" thing is a myth.
If dealing with a tank, rinse copiously, then rinse with acetone, blow dry and either fill with gas or apply the liner immediately.
If dealing with parts, do the same rinsing processes and immediately primer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,796 Posts
Geez, Bill... you mean all that muriatic acid I used with bare hands while using lead filler on cars wasn't good for me?....lol (back in those days NOTHING would harm you, not lead, not mercury that we played with as kids).
Thanks for that tip on the Milk Stone Remover (MSR). I will definitely look for some. Do you need any sort of licence or credential to obtain it, or is it available to the general public?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,495 Posts
Geez, Bill... you mean all that muriatic acid I used with bare hands while using lead filler on cars wasn't good for me?....lol (back in those days NOTHING would harm you, not lead, not mercury that we played with as kids).
Thanks for that tip on the Milk Stone Remover (MSR). I will definitely look for some. Do you need any sort of licence or credential to obtain it, or is it available to the general public?
Like findng food stuffs with no expiration date - it must last forever !!

No, it's fairly innocuous, as far as acids go.
Dairy farmers use it to treat stainless piping for calcium buildup, very common stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
I always clean my rusted tanks out with toilet bowl cleaner. It's safer Way to do it leave it in for 45 minutes and then rinse it out and then use por 15 to seal it up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Three days ago I drained my tank, rinsed it, filled it with distilled white vinegar, and let it sit overnight. The next day I threw in a handful of Sheetrock screws, shook it, topped it off with more vinegar and let it sit another night. Shook it again today, drained it, filled it with water, put in some baking soda, drained it after 20 mins and started to rinse it out. Flakes stopped coming out but the water would run clear or slightly orange. I looked inside and it looked like this:


Flash rust? I'm drying it now and spraying it with WD40. I don't understand why it rusted so much. I followed some instructions to the letter. I think I'm going to give it another go with evaporust.

Any idea why this happened?
Evapo-Rust is a much better option than vinegar. Vinegar is an acid, thats why you got the flash rust. here is the best way to use Evapo-Rust...

If it is small enough, fill it up with Evapo-Rust and let it sit overnight. If it is too big to fill, pour enough Evapo-Rust in the tank to cover the bottom about 2 inches deep. Let it sit in one position for a few hours, depending on the rust, then rotate the tank until you have soaked all sides of the tank. Once rust is gone, pour out Evapo-Rust into a container and save for other uses. Rinse tank well with water a couple of times. Pour a bottle of rubbing alcohol in and slosh it around and pour out. This step will help dry up any water left in the crevasses. Once tank is dry, it is ready to fill with fuel or put in a tank liner of choice. If it is going to be a while before you are able to put fuel back in, and you are not doing a liner, you can pour a little diesel fuel in and slosh it around to put a coat on the inside to keep it from re-rusting until you can get gas back in it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
539 Posts
Late to the party - sounds like it got sorted. But the mention of muriatic acid burnt my nose hairs a little. I used to use that when I was doing ceramic tile work and a strong sniff of that stuff will knock you on your butt.:) Good times, good times . . .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
I am a vinegar guy but just don't have heavy rust. Overnight has worked for me. Fuel filters too.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top