[Austin_Leonard_Automotive]

Hello everybody! I've been doing a load of research on my problem but haven't been able to figure it out, so I made an account to ask for help! A little backstory - I bought this bike nearly 2 years ago and it ran (rough but still ran). I didn't even ride it before I started tearing it apart to do a full "resto" (not perfect by any means but perfect for me ). I've finally got it all put back together and went to start it up - nothing. Out came the multimeter to check if I'm getting power. Everywhere I test I seem to be getting 12 volts, however the headlight/anything doesn't work. I have continuity to the bars and have checked the fuse, but when I try to kick it over it just bogs/not sparking just feeding fuel. And when I press the starter button nothing happens at all. I would really appreciate the help!! I can test things, just tell me where to put each end of the multimeter. Thanks for the help everyone!

-Austin

 

[mike in idaho]

If you turn everything on does the battery still read 12 volts?

 

[J-T]

Start by removing/cleaning/reinstalling the battery cables, both at the battery and where they connect to the frame and the solenoid. It's possible to have a connection that's good enough to read on a voltmeter but not good enough to run anything.

 

[Austin_Leonard_Automotive]

If you turn everything on does the battery still read 12 volts?

I tested it and when the key was turned and the kill switch on run, no difference was made.

Start by removing/cleaning/reinstalling the battery cables, both at the battery and where they connect to the frame and the solenoid. It's possible to have a connection that's good enough to read on a voltmeter but not good enough to run anything.

All of the connections were thoroughly cleaned before installation.

 

[doode]

Do you have spark? Did you set points gap, timing, valves and cam chain tensioner roller service?
Specifically, what work was done?

 

[ScramblerCurtis]

Have you tested the coil for appropriate Ohms? Have you tested the alternator for appropriate ohms? Paint under the ground connections? 5 ohm resistor tips on the plug wires? Checked spark on plugs grounded to the head? Just try kicking it over and not use the starter till you are sure there is spark.

 

[Austin_Leonard_Automotive]

I didn't mess with any engine internals, timing, etc. I took everything off the bike, painted the frame and cleaned stuff, and put everything back together - this leads me to think that it has to do with a bad ground but everything seems to be getting power and I cleaned the paint off the big ground connection on the frame. The only thing I replaced was the spark plugs with exact replacements.

 

[doode]

Points and ignition timing is hardly engine internals.

Did you confirm if you have spark?

Does the black wire at your coils have power?

The connector that plugs to your ignition switch?

The plug that connects to your rectifier?

Edit: Curtis posted the wiring diagram. Follow the wires that lead away from the battery...

 

[Bill H]

Hi Austin. First relax, Get something to sit on and a cup of whatever. If your battery is charged and installed correctly jump across the large posts on the starter solenoid .Does the starter turn over. If so then check the wire from the solenoid to the stater switch the wire from the battery to the starter switch . Starter working now. Next check the part of the ing switch marked ing . Have power ? go from there to the kill switch then to the + side of the coils , _ side of coils to the points . If correct you should be able to turn the motor over and ground a plug to see if you have spark.

If no spark you should back track to see why. Dont worry about lights ect right now were just trying to get it to run. If the bike is now running put the meter on the battery and check if the stator is charging the battery . If not start at the stator and check the wiring. If if worked be fore it should work now just wired wrong. If the bike is now running the real fun begins in sorting out the rest of the wiring.

If Im wrong on the starter or wiring someone jump in here and help us out so I dont start him off wrong. I didnt say anything about testing any part just try to see whats working and whats not. If something isnt working we can work it as it comes up.

Bill

 

[phil71]

you said you hsve no lights anywhere. Are you sure your ground lead is making good contact at the frame? If you painted everything, the paint may be preventing the chassis ground. Would explain you seeing 12v at the wires, but having a dead bike.

 

[ScramblerCurtis]

^^^^^^^^^^^^What Phil and I said. Check your grounds.

 

[Austin_Leonard_Automotive]

Hi Austin. First relax, Get something to sit on and a cup of whatever. If your battery is charged and installed correctly jump across the large posts on the starter solenoid .Does the starter turn over. If so then check the wire from the solenoid to the stater switch the wire from the battery to the starter switch . Starter working now. Next check the part of the ing switch marked ing . Have power ? go from there to the kill switch then to the + side of the coils , _ side of coils to the points . If correct you should be able to turn the motor over and ground a plug to see if you have spark.

If no spark you should back track to see why. Dont worry about lights ect right now were just trying to get it to run. If the bike is now running put the meter on the battery and check if the stator is charging the battery . If not start at the stator and check the wiring. If if worked be fore it should work now just wired wrong. If the bike is now running the real fun begins in sorting out the rest of the wiring.

If Im wrong on the starter or wiring someone jump in here and help us out so I dont start him off wrong. I didnt say anything about testing any part just try to see whats working and whats not. If something isnt working we can work it as it comes up.

Bill

Thanks for the advice Bill, I'll grab a cup of coffee. I jumped the large posts on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver and the starter turned over. Are you saying that I should swap the wires connected to the posts? I've attached a picture of my solenoid as it is now. (Ignore the loose large black wire, I had just loosened it)

you said you hsve no lights anywhere. Are you sure your ground lead is making good contact at the frame? If you painted everything, the paint may be preventing the chassis ground. Would explain you seeing 12v at the wires, but having a dead bike.

I ground off the paint down to the metal at the point where the ground cable connects so it should be good.

Thanks for the help!

 

[ancientdad]

Are you saying that I should swap the wires connected to the posts?

The solenoid is nothing more than a high-amperage switch - it simply connects the two heavy cables that go from the battery to the starter, so it doesn't matter. The bigger issue is why the yellow/red stripe and black wires going to the solenoid aren't causing it to react to the starter button, which could be many things. With the key in the on position, use a test light to see if the black wire of the two has power. If that is the case, then connect the other end of the test light to positive at the battery and then insert the probe of the test light into the connector of the yellow/red stripe wire, then push the starter button. If the test light lights, then you have a bad solenoid

 

[Austin_Leonard_Automotive]

The solenoid is nothing more than a high-amperage switch - it simply connects the two heavy cables that go from the battery to the starter, so it doesn't matter. The bigger issue is why the yellow/red stripe and black wires going to the solenoid aren't causing it to react to the starter button, which could be many things. With the key in the on position, use a test light to see if the black wire of the two has power. If that is the case, then connect the other end of the test light to positive at the battery and then insert the probe of the test light into the connector of the yellow/red stripe wire, then push the starter button. If the test light lights, then you have a bad solenoid

Just went out and bought a test light lol, probably a good thing to keep around! So I tried what you said to and here are the results. When the lights grounded to negative terminal and contacted with either of them - nothing. When connected to the positive terminal and contacted with either, they light up without having to press anything.

 

[ancientdad]

Just went out and bought a test light lol, probably a good thing to keep around! So I tried what you said to and here are the results. When the lights grounded to negative terminal and contacted with either of them - nothing. When connected to the positive terminal and contacted with either, they light up without having to press anything.

This happened with the key on? Remember, half of the test was to determine if there is switch-on power at the black wire connected to the solenoid. The black wire provides the power necessary for the magnetic switch that is the solenoid to operate, but it needs the ground from the yellow/red wire to complete the circuit when you press the starter button (that wire comes from there, provided you have the other connections correct in the headlight from the handlebar switch). If the handlebars are not adequately grounded, that will also keep the circuit from working (the bars are rubber-mounted and should have a ground wire from the bottom of one of the handlebar mounts to the upper triple clamp on the forks to get the ground to the frame). It sounds as though you may have larger issues with connections

 

[Austin_Leonard_Automotive]

This happened with the key on? Remember, half of the test was to determine if there is switch-on power at the black wire connected to the solenoid. The black wire provides the power necessary for the magnetic switch that is the solenoid to operate, but it needs the ground from the yellow/red wire to complete the circuit when you press the starter button (that wire comes from there, provided you have the other connections correct in the headlight from the handlebar switch). If the handlebars are not adequately grounded, that will also keep the circuit from working (the bars are rubber-mounted and should have a ground wire from the bottom of one of the handlebar mounts to the upper triple clamp on the forks to get the ground to the frame). It sounds as though you may have larger issues with connections

I was worried that the handlebars werent grounded well enough, so just to be sure I hooked a wire directly from that ground wire to the negative terminal for testing purposes. And yes that was with the key turned on. It's strange that I'm not seeing power from the black wire, I feel like theres a stupid simple mistake I made along the way, but I really don't want to tear into those handlebars again haha

 

[mike in idaho]

Is the ignition switch in run position or park position?

 

[Austin_Leonard_Automotive]

Is the ignition switch in run position or park position?

It's turned to the farthest clockwise setting which I'm assuming is the run position

 

[doode]

Far rt is park. Tail light on only.
Middle is on.
Left is off

 

[Harsh]

I didn't mess with any engine internals, timing, etc. I took everything off the bike, painted the frame and cleaned stuff, and put everything back together - this leads me to think that it has to do with a bad ground but everything seems to be getting power and I cleaned the paint off the big ground connection on the frame. The only thing I replaced was the spark plugs with exact replacements.

There are two other ground points that have not been mentioned.
Underneath the coils. If you look at the bracket that attaches them to the frame you will see where it extends out just a bit. The spot where the bracket and frame touch needs to be bare metal. There is also a spot on the battery box/frame that needs to have the paint removed since a ground wire attaches there as well.