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Discussion Starter #1
1965 i just restored. No idea what is grounding to cause this fuse to blow. Headlight wiring is all disconnected and taped. Starter solonoid, rectifier, horn, coil disconnected as well. I’m thinking one of the 4 wires going to the stator might be wrong. All handle bar controls are disconnected as well. Any idea where the short could be? Maybe something common? Thanks. Has anyone heard from Cliff? I was talking to him in and off for the past 8 years but not answering his email anymore. I hope all is well with him.
 

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Look at the brake light switch wiring and the horn wires.
 

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I would say your going to have to check every wire for a bare spot. Check all lose ends for contact with ground first. Then if that does not find the problem, then you will have to strip down the harness to find where its grounding. Remember black wire is power wire for accesories. Stator wiring is green red stripe going to neutral switch, yellow, white and pink to stator.
 

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I would say your going to have to check every wire for a bare spot. Check all lose ends for contact with ground first. Then if that does not find the problem, then you will have to strip down the harness to find where its grounding. Remember black wire is power wire for accesories. Stator wiring is green red stripe going to neutral switch, yellow, white and pink to stator.
While the above is correct for a later 175 (and many other later twins), the color-coding on a 160 is NOT identical....
160 Stator wiring is Brown, Pink, and Yellow, with ONLY the yellow wire matching electrically (purpose and connection points) on both schematics....
The Black wire is the (key) switched power buss on both bikes, and the green/red stripe is the neutral light grounding wire on both......
Dark Green wiring is the ground buss on the later bikes, but on the 160 is the points wire, the 160 relying almost exclusively on chassis grounds.......

Please be at least reasonably sure the information you offer to help other members is correct before posting it.......

Now to the diagnostic process..... Personally, I would disconnect ONLY the ignition (key) switch, reconnecting all the other components except the rectifier.... With a fresh metric fuse installed, (and AT the main harness end of the disconnected key switch plug) jumper the red wire to the white wire..... If fuse stays intact, the taillight circuit is OK (taillight should have come on)..... Then jump red to brown...Fuse intact means Headlight and meter lighting are OK (and they should have illuminated)......Then jump red to black....Assuming previous two test proved OK, Fuse still intact means the problem is internal to the key switch itself or the rectifier.....Fuse now blows limits problem to ignition coil, neutral light bulb connection, horn, solenoid or brake light switch....... disconnect all in the list, and then Check/connect one component at a time until fuse blows....That's the culprit
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you guys!! I'll look at the wiring tonight. Pretty sure I messed up and did the stator connectors color for color. So Yellow goes to yellow, brown to pink, pink to brown?
 

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NO!......Each Original 160 color goes to same original 160 color....BUT....The recharging system (Stator wiring + neutral switch wire) connections SHOULD have no effect on IF the bike is shorting out (blowing fuses).....unless the rectifier is shorted.

Phone me if you don't understand EXACTLY the diagnosis process I described.....540-525-5199

Note to Charlie.... My apologies.... I assumed when I corrected your information that my explanation to Chris (?) would be less confusing to him when he couldn't find the White wire at the stator connection ....
Apparently, that didn't work as he misinterpreted it anyway......Hopefully, a phone call will straighten it out.......
 

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No Worrys Steve!, i should have just told him wire color to same wire color. And stator was out of equation, battery power is what hes working with. Your solution for checking battery powered system is spot on. Thats why your the Sensei!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'll have to look it over again tonight and read your instructions again. Tried to get into it last night after work but was too busy. I did check the brake switch wiring and there is no short in that area. I'll update tonight as I go along. Thanks guys.
 

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You should give 66sprint aka Steve a call, he will walk you thru what you have to do. It will help you fix the problem faster.

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You should give 66sprint aka Steve a call, he will walk you thru what you have to do. It will help you fix the problem faster.

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Tapatalk
That would be great but I want to look over everything so I'm prepared to answer questions. Also don't want waste the mans time if it's something stupid I overlooked.
 
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