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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I just picked up a beautiful '71 CB350 and was riding around fine until suddenly I lost power, like the bike was running on just one cylinder. Lo and behold, I pulled the plugs, grounded them to the engine and turned her over: no spark to the right plug.

Opened up the left side points cover and hit the estart to turn the engine over. Lots of arcing//sparking coming from the right points... Could that mean a bad condensor? Anything else I might want to check before draining the tank, taking it off, and buying/replacing the condensor? Everything in the ignition system is original, although I just replaced the charging system with the Rick's High Output Charging Kit (but my no-spark issue was happening before I replaced that).

On a side note, and probably unrelated — my kickstarter occasionaly feels really stuck like it doesn't want to move at all (and I don't want to force it) although I stick to the estart anyway. Just curious about that issue.
 

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Welcome to Honda Twins and thanks for the first post!

Points that are sparking could be caused by a failing or disconnected condensor, or from oil/contamination on the point surface. Those points need to be really clean to prevent sparking. Another possibility is the insulated wire from the coil to the spark plug might be broken internally or is grounding to the head.

The kickstarter issue can be investigated with removal of the right side cover, however only the outer shaft and return spring will be seen. I would start there. The geared internals can be inspected by removing the engine from the frame and separating the lower crank case, which is a bigger job and requires some new gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey, thanks for the help!

I ended up simply cleaning the points with some cardstock and acetone, and that seems to have done the trick. That on top of regularly riding the bike which has been sitting for years seems to have helped. I ordered a set of points and condensor to be safe.

I haven't checked out the kickstarter issue just yet, but I plan on removing the right side cover to replace the seized screws with fresh stainless steel alan bolts — and will assess then.

Last question: what RPM should my bike be idling, it seems to be just below 2000 RPM right now, and I'm reading online anywhere from 800-1500 RPM idle speed. Is the idle screw via just one carb or do I have to adjust both carbs to synchornize the idle speed btw carbs.

Thank you!
 

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Separate idle screws for the 350 carbs, they need to be synchronized in two ways - idle speed (along with adjusting the mixture screws to achieve the highest idle on each side, then balancing the two) and the synchronized lift of the throttle cables at the adjusters where the cables attach to the carbs to ensure both cylinders rev off idle equally
 

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Mine idles right at 1,200 if you believe the tach. 100% agree on properly synching the carbs/throttles. If you drive aggressively, the mis-matched idle and roll-off from idle is really annoying.
 
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