[Maxparker]

Hi everyone, i have a 71 cb350k3. I just recently set my points and it runs beatutifully, however, im not sure i did it correctly.
I did not gap the points. Basically, the gap would be as little as i could set. Set rotor, set test light, Lossened points, Just nudged off, just barely nudged on, then tightened down. They fire exactly on my index marks LF and F on comp stroke, and again the bike runs very smooth, but did i do it wrong? Did i maybe accidentaly do it right? Thanks!

 

[Boomer343]

Yes, you did it wrong. Point gap is set as it affects the dwell and therefore the charging of the coils. You can research how too little or too much affects this.

Set the LH points to within spec then the right hand points are set within spec. Then moving the points plate is the way to set the timing for the left cylinder and the right hand timing is adjusted by either closing or opening the RH points gap and then the gap is checked to be sure it is still in spec.

Timing light is really the way to go and also allows for checking the advance.

 

[Maxparker]

Thanks again, boomer! Again, more misleading info from common motor videos, i think he actually says the gap doesnt matter in the video. He also spins the motor backwards but i didnt do that thankfully. So thank you very much for that info! i rode it about a mile the way i set it up like that, hopefully its ok, il go back in and do it right, thanks!
Max

 

[circling the drain]

Again, more misleading info from common motor videos, i think he actually says the gap doesnt matter in the video.

Yes, he does say the points gap doesn't matter, which is totally contradictory to the very Honda shop manuals they have for download. It's important to know that no one at CMC ever worked at a Honda shop when these bikes were new and current models, they learned in their backyards and for whatever reason they ignore what the factory says in many cases. You'll never see Honda manuals suggesting that you lap valves with a drill either.

 

[Maxparker]

Hi again, so i just re did the points (with gap this time, valves, and put in new floats and petcock,
Its running really nice but im noticing one new thing.
Im hearing a faint steady tapping noise, seems to be coming from the right exhaust valve.

So i just watched a video of a guy doing his valves while the bike is running and he gets them to just start tappingby tig ( same sound) and then backs off until tapping goes away.
Is this a better method that feeler gauges?

thanks!

 

[Maxparker]

Yes, he does say the points gap doesn't matter, which is totally contradictory to the very Honda shop manuals they have for download. It's important to know that no one at CMC ever worked at a Honda shop when these bikes were new and current models, they learned in their backyards and for whatever reason they ignore what the factory says in many cases. You'll never see Honda manuals suggesting that you lap valves with a drill either.

I think someone should tell them! Just to save from doing things over and over. I like their parts though.. so far. Learned my lesson, though, im happy I've found this site, super helpful info on here!

 

[Bill H]

Just for info for every degree dwell you are off two degrees time.

Bill H

 

[circling the drain]

I think someone should tell them! Just to save from doing things over and over. I like their parts though.. so far. Learned my lesson, though, im happy I've found this site, super helpful info on here!

I've been railing on them for years because of the way they mislead noob twins owners, they're not listening and they've somehow convinced half a generation of followers that they know what they're doing. If you take the time to price shop you'll also find that virtually everything they sell is overpriced as well. Try checking 4into1 and Scrambler Cycle for the same products, they'll be cheaper.

 

[Boomer343]

And as far as doing the valve clearance on a running engine .... give it a pass. You need a repeatable method with as few variables as possible. Follow the FSM.

I cut my feeler gauges into a v shape with a flat at the bottom then give them a slight bend. Better access and fewer false settings.

 

[Maxparker]

Thanks! Yeah, i agree, on further reading, ive decided that its not a good idea with the engine running, thanks, il try those ideas, super helpful thank you all, i put my "feelers" out there and i get all this great info!

 

[A motorcycle nut]

 

[Maxparker]

Thanks everyone for your help! Update, the bike runs perfect now. Very happy, had to do everything twice, but it made me do it all twice as careful and it paid off, thanks again,
Max

 

[AdieJ]

Hi everyone, i have a 71 cb350k3. I just recently set my points and it runs beatutifully, however, im not sure i did it correctly.
I did not gap the points. Basically, the gap would be as little as i could set. Set rotor, set test light, Lossened points, Just nudged off, just barely nudged on, then tightened down. They fire exactly on my index marks LF and F on comp stroke, and again the bike runs very smooth, but did i do it wrong? Did i maybe accidentaly do it right? Thanks!

Hi, This is my first post, so bare with me!
I have spent a lot of time trying to get my 1975 CL360 K1 running correctly, I have replaced many components during the rebuild of the engine, frame, and electrics and never achieved a "nice" running engine on this bike. I too have watched many videos and tried various methods of adjustments none of which gave me a decent result. The bike would run and appear o.k but after a few journeys start to misfire/backfire or run erratically. I had changed every component from the base-plate, points cam, condensers, coils etc, you name it I've renewed it! (including CV diaphragms and carb refurb). In pure desperation I decided to (I had been trying to keep the bike as original as possible) replace the ignition system for an "optical electronic" system.
WOW what a difference, starts within a few kicks or a second or two on the starter, runs superb and the fuel consumption has improved. I have now rode the bike for over 2 months without a single problem. Once the timing is set just leave it alone and relax, brilliant.
This may not have answered your question on "how to set the points correctly" but I recommend that if you look into changing the original system if issues with the CB points etc persist. The original system relies on many mechanical components that wear at different rates so as the system gets older the more problems will happen.
I have had various Honda machines throughout my years and except for bikes with electronic ignition systems have spent many long hours keeping the CB points systems "serviceable".
If what you have done works and you are happy then well done, ride it and enjoy.
Respect
AdieJ