[krukster86]

So I was getting all excited to replace the master cylinder on my CB360 when I just noticed last night that my caliper does not have a bleeder valve! Instead there is some sort of allen bolt in its place. My initial guess is my PO lost the bleeder valve (like a lot of other parts on the bike :lol: ) and popped this bolt in there to keep the brake fluid inside. So I ordered a bleeder valve from Sportland Motorsports and it gave me an excuse to also add some sidestand and centerstand springs to my order . Just a sanity check here, am I right?

 

[66Sprint]

You are sane (in this case...LOL) that IS where the bleeder goes.... :lol: Steve

 

[SSCR]

I have seen some nice speed bleeders for 360s on ebay cheap.

 

[MNellis]

You may have more problems than just replacing the bleeder. The bleeder has a tapered flange the seat on a reverse type flange on the caliper. From the picture, it looks like a countersink was done to get the bolt in there. In order to seal, they may have run a drill bit down in there so the bleeder may not work.

I'm not trying to project a lot of negative wave out there but please check it closely, that hold was not designed to have a bolt run in there.

 

[qcrider]

You may have more problems than just replacing the bleeder. The bleeder has a tapered flange the seat on a reverse type flange on the caliper. From the picture, it looks like a countersink was done to get the bolt in there. In order to seal, they may have run a drill bit down in there so the bleeder may not work.

I'm not trying to project a lot of negative wave out there but please check it closely, that hold was not designed to have a bolt run in there.

I was thinking the same thing - once you get that bolt/set screw whatever it is out of there. Be sure to examine the taper in the bottom of the hole to make sure it isn't damaged as well. Even if the bleeder screws in ok you need to make sure it's going to seal when it bottoms.

If the caliper is damaged and money or availability are an issue it might be repairable. Let us know what you find once the bolt is removed.

 

[qcrider]

something like this
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produc ... RecID=5210

 

[qcrider]

took another look at the pic of your caliper

A repair sleeve may not work there just isn't that much material there to drill and tap.

You may get lucky though a new bleeder might screw right in there and be fine keep your fingers crossed

 

[66Sprint]

MK... If you get stuck, I can come up with a caliper body for you.... Steve

 

[krukster86]

Oh wow I wasn't expecting that! :shock: Anyway it will be a week or so before I get the part in, so till then I am hoping for the best. Thanks for the offer Steve, I will let you know if I need that caliper.

 

[gs1327]

Another wrench in the works- that set screw is probably not metric, so it was probably threaded another size. Maybe not- but check the thread pitch and size on that plug. If the tapered seat at the bottom is ok, most auto parts stores carry an assortment of metric and sae bleeders in stock and you may be able to match up a suitable substitute. I've had to go that route before.

 

[krukster86]

Ok so the bleeder valve and the cap came in the mail yesterday (huge package for two little baggies haha!). I think I will have some time today to work on the bike to see if the caliper is good. Correct me if I am wrong: 1. Take out the allen head bolt 2. Install bleeder valve 3. Squeeze brake a couple times and see if there is any leakage?

 

[WOZERD]

If you need another caliper, I can get you one cheap. I know where there is at least 4 or 5 of em.

 

[dlslick]

I am in agreement that this may be a buggered up caliper now with the fix that the P.O. did. If it were mine ( remember that I am not a very bright man ) I would just try bleeding it at the fitting. It is almost the same point as the bleeder valve. I wont be as easy but may be worth a try.
Then you could leave that bolt alone since it isnt leaking.
The only problem is that you dont know if when the brakes are really hammered on in a panic that the cross threaded bolt will stay there so the best thing is probably to replace that caliper.
Boy,,,,, I sure did a turn around on this thread didnt I ?
Don

 

[krukster86]

Alright, so I unscrewed that allen bolt and had some brake fluid come out without even touching the brake. I tried fitting in that new bleeder valve in its place, but the makeshift bolt's diameter was too large and the bleeder valve just twirled around in place. I am going to need a replacement caliper. I know Steve and Wozerd know of a spare caliper or two. PM me or something.

 

[krukster86]

I took apart the old master cylinder and put in that new aftermarket CB450 one. It looks so much cooler!

Anyway I also took off and took apart the disc brake. Caliper B seemed to be in decent shape, but caliper A seems tricky.
For Caliper A, I took off the brake pad. My service manual says to look for a "red indicator mark" for worn brakes, I do not see one, and judging by the pic below, I think the pads are still in good shape.

Then I found this orange-ish ring which does not show up in my service manual and I was wondering what it was.

The piston is still in the caliper housing. My manual says that you need to blast the oil pipe inlet with compressed air to free it. Is there some sort of low cost solution for this? I don't own an air compressor.

 

[tbpmusic]

I took apart the old master cylinder and put in that new aftermarket CB450 one. It looks so much cooler!
The piston is still in the caliper housing. My manual says that you need to blast the oil pipe inlet with compressed air to free it. Is there some sort of low cost solution for this? I don't own an air compressor.

A grease gun works good too - just rig some sort of nipple. Shouldn't matter much, because your threads are already buggered, right??
A bit messy, but works good.

Or you could try soaking the whole thing in yer' favorite stuff for a couple of days - I might try a mixture of diesel and ATF maybe - it penetrates pretty good. Some guys swear by PB Blaster....

But the best way is to take it to a compressor and pop it out. Make sure it's pointed towards a soft area (that's not your body) because the piston will turn into a missle.....
Maybe a friend or local garage might let you do it, only takes a second. A rubber-tipped air nozzle (common) works best. I blast it into a bunch of rags in a 5-gallon bucket.

 

[krukster86]

Thanks Bill, I just asked my dad about it and turns out one of my uncles has an air compressor that I can use for this one second job.

Yeah it doesn't matter if I mess up this caliper since I am taking it apart for the piston and the brake pads for use in the caliper I am getting from Steve

 

[MNellis]

you can also hook up the master cylinder and give the brake lever a bunch of pumps and it should pop out too. There will be air in the line but it doesn't matter.

Regarding the wear line. You are correct, that pad doesn't have one but usually the stock ones had a red line that went all the way around and showed how much pad was left. It might have been replaced with some after market ones that don't have the red line. I think the plastic disc is a vibration damper to help keep the squeeking down. It goes between the brake pad and the piston. Don't forget to replace it when you put it back together.

 

[66Sprint]

Hey Mark....

Bleeder will be included, but it's rusty..... It will need cleaned (black at edges is dirt and grease)and I'd repaint it.......Will mail Tuesday......Steve

 

[krukster86]

Steve,

It looks great. You can keep the old bleeder valve if you want, I have a new/NOS one in a Honda baggy in my room. I figured the caliper you find would need to be cleaned up, so I bought some caliper paint the other day in preparation. Thanks!