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Actually, I did - but on a 450. I just rode about 10 miles today at 7000 rpm and higher at times and my bike came home just fine, but maybe it would have anyway... but when you've been through what I went through during my build, you're open to pretty much any mod that might help. CrazyPJ knows his stuff by all accounts
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok awesome. That’s really all I wanted to hear. since it’s apart and it seems pretty straight forward I’m just going to do it. Is it as simple as it seems? Anything I should know going into it?
 

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Like ancientdad says it's a mod that if not overdone isn't going to hurt anything.

From my experience the o-ring in the filter and the 2 o-rings in the side case always need changing. I have found a couple filters that were being run with no o-ring.

Also check for smooth surfaces on the oil filter cap and the ring you want to modify. I scrap any with discernible wear.

Also check the pump for wear and scoring. I have also found a few issues with the lever and the eccentric on the back of the clutch basket, one was bent from a less than competent person and the other 2 showed excessive play.

Lastly the gasket fit and the surfaces on the engine case/side cover need to be checked where the oil flows from the side case to the engine case. I have found a couple of torn gaskets in that location and it wasn't from my removal of the side case. Tough to get oil to the head unless the path is leak free.

Oh and run 5-40 full synthetic ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok great info. I will proceed slowly. I figure it can’t hurt if done right. Filter is cleaned and has new seals,and gaskets will be replaced with new ones once finished. I’ve had clutch slippage with synthetic in the past, so I stopped using it. But my plan as of right now is to pull the clutch and clean it, replace with stiffer springs, and start running synthetic again. More concerned with head oiling issues than anything else and full synthetic seems to be a step in the right direction. Also thanks for moving this post to the proper location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
For clarification your saying don’t make the ID too big? Or are you saying don’t go too deep? I can’t tell from the photos if the entire ring is thinned from the inside out or if it’s only about half way down. If I held the part I’m sure it would make more sense, but can any describe the process with some crude measurements perhaps?
 

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For clarification your saying don’t make the ID too big? Or are you saying don’t go too deep? I can’t tell from the photos if the entire ring is thinned from the inside out or if it’s only about half way down. If I held the part I’m sure it would make more sense, but can any describe the process with some crude measurements perhaps?
It's only increasing the sides of the diameter, not the whole circle inside the valve. Nothing to do with depth, just width at the areas where the oil flows out as indicated by his yellow lines. Once you see the part, you'll understand it's a small amount of opening it up, probably less than 2mm each side

oil mod.jpg
 

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i was going to apply this mod to my SL350, only to find that the spring was missing from the bypass setup, but there are distinct rub marks on the oil filter mating face, and i am getting good oil flow. all gaskets and seals are in place.
any ideas or explanations?
Gary.
 

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I would like to understand why this "mod" is being done.....

It DOES NOT increase oil flow volume from the pump, (the pump's capacity at any given engine speed is responsible for that. )...
It DECREASES oil pressure at the relief valve joint, making it less likely (requiring more pressure build-up) to open, but that also increases the back-pressure affecting (reducing) the outflow efficiency from the pump (making the pump work harder for any given volume)......
It is ultimately the case orifice sizes that control how much oil goes where and at what pressure.....and they don't change......

Gary, I would get and install that spring.......
 
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