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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK so I removed the C clip and now the end of the filter should come right off, mines seems to be stuck. Any thoughts?
 

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There's a special nut that needs to be removed. Do a search here and you see a link to the MotionPro special socket that it takes to remove that nut.

Also, look at an online parts fiche to get a good understanding of the parts layout.


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I have that tool. Not quite in there enough to use it yet.

I'm talking about the cap. After removing the C clip it should just pull off no?

I have done this before, I just can't remember it being difficult to remove.
P.S. I have 2 downloaded manuals as well as a book, they all show it just coming off. Then you use the tool to go further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
uh-Oh!

Here is a photo of it when I was working on it a year ago.
I see a small 6mm bolt at arrow. When I just took it apart, no bolt?
 

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Seaweb11 said:
uh-Oh!

Here is a photo of it when I was working on it a year ago.
I see a small 6mm bolt at arrow. When I just took it apart, no bolt?

I don't think there's supposed to be a bolt in there.

Now on many models, you can screw a long 6mm bolt into the cap - it catches some threads on the "back" of the cap, then screws against the end of the crankshaft and forces the cap out safely.
Can't recall if that's the case with 350's, but it wouldn't surprise me.
Maybe the PO left a screw/bolt in there???
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
But the cap should just slide off after removing C clip yes?
 

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tbpmusic said:
Now on many models, you can screw a long 6mm bolt into the cap - it catches some threads on the "back" of the cap, then screws against the end of the crankshaft and forces the cap out safely.
Can't recall if that's the case with 350's, but it wouldn't surprise me.
That is how I remove the filter cap on my 350.
 

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Seaweb11 said:
But the cap should just slide off after removing C clip yes?
It should, but often doesn't come out that easily - many times you have to pull so hard it freaks people out...
 

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dammmmmm, wished i thought of that..... thats a good idea!

note to self, check threads and pitch of all fasteners on cb350 amd 450.. cross reference and WRITE IT DOWN!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The treads didn't pull the cap off. It just gave me some pull leverage.


Just got the rotor off.

It was said that you could use the rear axle to remove the rotor. No other explanations were ever found in my online searches.
So here is how I overcame my problem.

I left one of the axle spacers on the shaft and spent an hour on and off today just whacking the spacer as a weight against the end of the axle.
Finally it gave up and slid off. Thought I would include a photo for the next person who wants to figure this out.

Notice how 2 of the 3 main screws were very loose, but not broken thank god. Should I use a locktight on these on reassembly?
Manuals suck!
 

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Just for reference, you simply screw the axle in until it bears on the crankshaft.... As you continue to try to tighten it in, you strike it with a hammer and the impact and rotational pressure "pop" it off the taper.....

Locktite and "stake" the bolts in place......
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Digger said:
Just for reference, you simply screw the axle in until it bears on the crankshaft.... As you continue to try to tighten it in, you strike it with a hammer and the impact and rotational pressure "pop" it off the taper.....
Yeah, but the rotor just kept spinning when I tightened it. No buddy beside me to hold down the break pedal.

Locktight it is.
 

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You might be able to do it yourself. Holding the pedal while putting pressure on your ratchet I mean. If you've got the clutch side cover off you can wedge a penny between the crankshaft gear and the clutch gear to temporarily lock the engine in place.


GB :mrgreen:
 
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