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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Which color point isn't firing, blue or yellow?

Should consider replacing the condenser and making sure the contact area is clean... It grounds to the frame
Blue wire isn't firing. Yeah I've cleaned the area pretty well. When I switch the points wire it just switches between left and right not giving spark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The blue connection looked a little close to the back of the point plate. Can you confirm it's not close/touching. The hardware also looked newer than the yellow and I thought it may be worth a look.
The blue wire is definitely touching the back plate. I don't know about the age of the points, but I'm going to replace the points and condensers eventually once i start getting a spark
 

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Set your multimeter to 20k ohm and touch the upper part of the right points(when the points are closed) and the other end to the spark plug cap. What do you get?
Next, do the spark plug cap and other end to the points housing, and put a folded piece of paper between the points. What do you get?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Set your multimeter to 20k ohm and touch the upper part of the right points(when the points are closed) and the other end to the spark plug cap. What do you get?
Next, do the spark plug cap and other end to the points housing, and put a folded piece of paper between the points. What do you get?
left point, left cap: 17.2 closed, 17 with paper
right point, right cap: 16.63 closed, 16.66 with paper
 

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And you're testing for spark with the points cover off, correct? Use the same spark plug for both sides.

Does the points contact surfaces on the blue wire look clean? They fully close and open? What's it look like when the bike is idling with the points cover off?
 

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Let's start at Square One:

When the Points are CLOSED (contacts touching) the Coils are being Charged via the Primary Windings.
When the Points OPEN the Coils discharge the stored energy thru the secondary windings via the Plug Wire to the PLUGS which is the only Ground Path for the Secondary Windings.

Coils should NOT be left with the Power -ON- for any extended period of time.
They WILL overheat and Self-Destruct (Melt the internal insolation and short out)

The Coils can be tested by:

Remove the SPARK PLUGS.
Re-Attach the PLUG WIRES to the PLUGS and Lay the Plug on the Motor so the TIP is grounded.

Place a small strip of paper between the CLOSED Contacts (both Sets).
This step is prevent the Overheat issue from constant Power.
Turn - ON - the Ignition Switch (make sure the KILL Switch is set to -ON-)

Using a JUMPER WIRE, Jump power across one of the Point Contacts to allow (1) Coil to Charge.
(It only requires about 1/100th of a second to charge the coils)
When you REMOVE the Jumper you SHOULD get spark at that Plug.
If you don't you MAY have a bad Coil.

A Note about Condensers:
The Condensers Suppress the Arcing that occurs when the Points Open and Close.
Think about the Spark you get if you touch a Battery Cable to Ground.
And notice when you do that there is a small BURN mark where the spark occurred.
Now Think Arc Welding. The Points will get Pitted over time by the Arcing that occurs each time they Open and Close.
The condensers absorb some of the current during that process and REDUCE (not eliminate) the amount of pitting that takes place.
A SHORTED Condenser will Absorb nearly all of the power that is supposed to go to the coils.
An OPEN Condenser will NOT Absorb Any of the current and the Arcing will create an connection to the Coils continuing the charge process and possibly not allowing the coils to discharge.

PLUGS:
Assuming you have successfully done the processes above and have SPARK at the PLUGS when they are grounded to the motor.
Do NOT Make the assumption the PLUGS are good.
Bad Plugs can jump Spark across the gap when not under compression, but put them back in the motor and the spark will fail to JUMP the gap.

PLUGS are cheap - do your trouble shooting with a NEW set.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Let's start at Square One:

When the Points are CLOSED (contacts touching) the Coils are being Charged via the Primary Windings.
When the Points OPEN the Coils discharge the stored energy thru the secondary windings via the Plug Wire to the PLUGS which is the only Ground Path for the Secondary Windings.

Coils should NOT be left with the Power -ON- for any extended period of time.
They WILL overheat and Self-Destruct (Melt the internal insolation and short out)

The Coils can be tested by:

Remove the SPARK PLUGS.
Re-Attach the PLUG WIRES to the PLUGS and Lay the Plug on the Motor so the TIP is grounded.

Place a small strip of paper between the CLOSED Contacts (both Sets).
This step is prevent the Overheat issue from constant Power.
Turn - ON - the Ignition Switch (make sure the KILL Switch is set to -ON-)

Using a JUMPER WIRE, Jump power across one of the Point Contacts to allow (1) Coil to Charge.
(It only requires about 1/100th of a second to charge the coils)
When you REMOVE the Jumper you SHOULD get spark at that Plug.
If you don't you MAY have a bad Coil.

A Note about Condensers:
The Condensers Suppress the Arcing that occurs when the Points Open and Close.
Think about the Spark you get if you touch a Battery Cable to Ground.
And notice when you do that there is a small BURN mark where the spark occurred.
Now Think Arc Welding. The Points will get Pitted over time by the Arcing that occurs each time they Open and Close.
The condensers absorb some of the current during that process and REDUCE (not eliminate) the amount of pitting that takes place.
A SHORTED Condenser will Absorb nearly all of the power that is supposed to go to the coils.
An OPEN Condenser will NOT Absorb Any of the current and the Arcing will create an connection to the Coils continuing the charge process and possibly not allowing the coils to discharge.

PLUGS:
Assuming you have successfully done the processes above and have SPARK at the PLUGS when they are grounded to the motor.
Do NOT Make the assumption the PLUGS are good.
Bad Plugs can jump Spark across the gap when not under compression, but put them back in the motor and the spark will fail to JUMP the gap.

PLUGS are cheap - do your trouble shooting with a NEW set.
Okay thank you, but just letting you know that the coils, caps, and spark plugs are all brand new. But I will troubleshoot once again using your instructions
 

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How are you getting on? Just re-fitted the coils and a new condenser to my '71 CL350 and got nothing.... No spark at all. Have walked away from it for an hour or two, before taking the tank off and starting over again.
 

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Check the Fuse.

Double Check the Kill Switch.

Double check the Key is in the CENTER Position Not Park.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
To update what I've done since my last post.
-replaced points and condensers
-Installed OEM fuse holder and fuse since it never had one
-coils, caps and plugs are brand new

Now that I went to go set the timing on the points, the test light doesn't ever turn off. I do have the engine on the compression stroke with the tick mark on LF. I don't know what could be the problem, I thought this was going to be the easy part. Have any ideas? thanks
 

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Did you attach the wires to the points correctly.

There is a stack of Fiber Insulator washers that MUST be assembled in the correct order otherwise you may be grounding the points.

Post a close up pic of the points and wire connections.
 
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