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Take off the points cover and check the points wiring isn't touching the housing and the fiber washers are in place, then test for spark with the cover off



Its a 71 cl350. If it was a condenser issue wouldn't both not have spark? One thing I haven't checked have been the points. I did check the spacing with a feeler gauge and they were good but i haven't checked the timing, but again, I don't think that affect not having a spark, right?
 

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Not sure, but set it to the setting to read secondary coil... 20k ohm. Shouldn't be much more than the standard secondary coil. Would show of there is a break from points to plug cap. Like if you plugged your coil to the ground wire instead of black/white wire
 

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That's where the fuse goes. Clean the contact areas.
Supposed to be metric size fuse. Check clamp for fit. They're easy to distort, especially if non metric fuses are used. May cause issues if distorted. I've upgraded mine.
 

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The blue connection looked a little close to the back of the point plate. Can you confirm it's not close/touching. The hardware also looked newer than the yellow and I thought it may be worth a look.
 

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Set your multimeter to 20k ohm and touch the upper part of the right points(when the points are closed) and the other end to the spark plug cap. What do you get?
Next, do the spark plug cap and other end to the points housing, and put a folded piece of paper between the points. What do you get?
 

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And you're testing for spark with the points cover off, correct? Use the same spark plug for both sides.

Does the points contact surfaces on the blue wire look clean? They fully close and open? What's it look like when the bike is idling with the points cover off?
 
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