[aram]

Hello, so i was having sparking issues on the left side and noticed the leads were fried so i replaced both coils with new caps and spark plugs. The weird thing is that after i installed them they were both giving spark and that was awesome, but when I went back the next day to go for a ride, I noticed there was a power loss and noticed it was running on one cylinder again, but this time on the right side with no spark (take note i didn't touch anything after i installed and inspected they both gave a spark). So i checked the new coils and caps with the voltimeter and they both checked out (not surprised), checked my connections and they were good also and still no spark. Does anyone know what could be the issue here?

 

[J-T]

Points and condensers?

 

[doode]

Internal break in the ignition wire. How much of it did you trim off before replacing the caps?

 

[Yendor]

I would double check your Bullet Connectors for the Coils & condensers and make sure they have a TIGHT connection.
Even give the Female side a slight squeeze with a pair of pliers.

They may have come apart when you put the tank back on.

 

[doode]

Oops, sorry, I totally missed the new coils part!
^^^ what the 2 other posts said.
Maybe also make sure your points aren't grounding out. What model bike?

 

[aram]

Oops, sorry, I totally missed the new coils part!
^^^ what the 2 other posts said.
Maybe also make sure your points aren't grounding out. What model bike?

Its a 71 cl350. If it was a condenser issue wouldn't both not have spark? One thing I haven't checked have been the points. I did check the spacing with a feeler gauge and they were good but i haven't checked the timing, but again, I don't think that affect not having a spark, right?

 

[aram]

I would double check your Bullet Connectors for the Coils & condensers and make sure they have a TIGHT connection.
Even give the Female side a slight squeeze with a pair of pliers.

They may have come apart when you put the tank back on.

The connectors are brand new so i don't think thats it. The only thing I'm reusing is the condenser, but that affect both coils, right?

 

[doode]

Take off the points cover and check the points wiring isn't touching the housing and the fiber washers are in place, then test for spark with the cover off

Its a 71 cl350. If it was a condenser issue wouldn't both not have spark? One thing I haven't checked have been the points. I did check the spacing with a feeler gauge and they were good but i haven't checked the timing, but again, I don't think that affect not having a spark, right?

 

[aram]

Take off the points cover and check the points wiring isn't touching the housing and the fiber washers are in place, then test for spark with the cover off

Just checked and everything is its place, and i was giving it a kick and i got one random spark and it wasn't happening again

 

[doode]

Swap the coil wires and see if the problem switches sides.

Points cover is off when you're testing, right?

 

[aram]

Swap the coil wires and see if the problem switches sides.

Points cover is off when you're testing, right?

Okay i think its a defective coil because i swapped the wires and the spark is now on the right so it just switched. Thanks would've never thought of that

 

[doode]

Not sure I follow your result, but you still
Only have spark on 1 side?

How are the contact surfaces of your points?

Try and get an ohm reading from points to plug cap, on each side

 

[aram]

Not sure I follow your result, but you still
Only have spark on 1 side?

How are the contact surfaces of your points?

Try and get an ohm reading from points to plug cap, on each side

Yes same result, but now I'm getting the spark on the right instead of the left. What should that reading be?

 

[doode]

Not sure, but set it to the setting to read secondary coil... 20k ohm. Shouldn't be much more than the standard secondary coil. Would show of there is a break from points to plug cap. Like if you plugged your coil to the ground wire instead of black/white wire

 

[aram]

Not sure, but set it to the setting to read secondary coil... 20k ohm. Shouldn't be much more than the standard secondary coil. Would show of there is a break from points to plug cap. Like if you plugged your coil to the ground wire instead of black/white wire

Since we are talking electrical stuff do you know if this is where the fuse is supposed to go

 

[doode]

That's where the fuse goes. Clean the contact areas.
Supposed to be metric size fuse. Check clamp for fit. They're easy to distort, especially if non metric fuses are used. May cause issues if distorted. I've upgraded mine.

 

[aram]

That's where the fuse goes. Clean the contact areas.
Supposed to be metric size fuse. Check clamp for fit. They're easy to distort, especially if non metric fuses are used. May cause issues if distorted. I've upgraded mine.

Okay there was no fuse at all, i guess need to go buy some. hopefully that fixes my issue

 

[Yendor]

YES - Those are the fuse Holder CONTACTS - BUT... You are MISSING the Plastic Casing that surrounds the fuse to prevent things from shorting out.

Just adding a Fuse will not likely solve things for you.

It would need to be insulated to prevent a short.

As an Emergency Measure you could wrap the ends in electrical tape and make it so you could still see into the glass and internal fuse element.

But the Fuse Holders are a separate Part and still available.
Buy one from a Honda dealer and purchase the CORRECT METRIC Fuses.

SAE Standard Size Fuses will not fit the Circular Contact correctly and will overheat and short out.

The circumference of the ends are different between SAE & Metric sizes. Only a Proper Metric Fuse will have full contact with the CLIP Ends.
An SAE Size will not snap in right and will have a smaller contact patch that will overheat when passing current.

 

[aram]

YES - Those are the fuse Holder CONTACTS - BUT... You are MISSING the Plastic Casing that surrounds the fuse to prevent things from shorting out.

Just adding a Fuse will not likely solve things for you.

It would need to be insulated to prevent a short.

As an Emergency Measure you could wrap the ends in electrical tape and make it so you could still see into the glass and internal fuse element.

But the Fuse Holders are a separate Part and still available.
Buy one from a Honda dealer and purchase the CORRECT METRIC Fuses.

SAE Standard Size Fuses will not fit the Circular Contact correctly and will overheat and short out.

The circumference of the ends are different between SAE & Metric sizes. Only a Proper Metric Fuse will have full contact with the CLIP Ends.
An SAE Size will not snap in right and will have a smaller contact patch that will overheat when passing current.

Oh okay thanks, are these what holders look like?

 

[doode]

You sure your junks not grounding, or there's a wiring issue?
Post a close up of your points setup and photos of your coil wiring.