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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
7AEC3FDF-2AC2-4C5E-861E-14646FB795F4.jpg

AC generator:
Green-White 315-385 ohms
Infinite?/297? (It wasn’t taking a reading easily, and one time I got 297, the rest were infinite). See attached pic to confirm testing spot.

Blue-White 77-95 ohms
77

Green-Brown 76-92 ohms
70 ( a bit low)

Green-light blue 95-116 ohms
96 (fine)

Green-pink 126-154 ohms
133 (fine)

Coil Test:
Primary Side: The Yellow and Green wires being measured will be coming out of the spark plug coil.
The resistance should be less than 1 Ohm. Spec is .35 to .55 ohms
BIKE: .5

Secondary Side: Measure the resistance of the spark plug wires with the plug end caps removed, they unscrew. Insert a probe into each wire. Spec is 7.2K ohms to 8.8K ohms
BIKE: 7.7k

Plug End Caps: Measure the resistance of the plug end caps. Spec is 5K ohms. Replacement part number is NGK XD05F
BIKE: 4.96k/4.99k

Stator Tests:
Pink and Green wires:
This is the advancer pickup sensor
The resistance should be about 135 Ohms. New Spec 129 Ohms
BIKE: 133 Ohms

White and Blue wires:
This is the CDI power source.
The resistance should be about 85 Ohms. New Spec 84.2 Ohms
BIKE: 77 Ohms

Brown and Light blue wires:
This is the primary pickup coil, the aluminum piece outside the rotor
The resistance should be about 207 ohms. New Spec 203 Ohms
BIKE: 165 Ohms

Run/Kill and Ignition switch Tests:
Ignition switch on, Run/Kill switch in Run position: Infinite Ohms reading meaning an open circuit
BIKE: Yes

Ignition switch on, Run/Kill switch in Off position: Zero ohms or close to that showing the circuit is closed/completed to ground
BIKE: Yes

Ignition switch OFF, Run/Kill in any position: Zero ohmsor close to that showing the circuit is closed/completed to ground
BIKE: Yes

Alternator Tests: Y-Y: <1 Ohm; Y-Ground: Infinite
BIKE: .9/infinite
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Basically, the bike’s been running pretty great other than a few things that pop up, chiefly the carbs. However, yesterday I took it out for a spin, got a mile out, and then all of sudden the engine cut. I thought I accidentally bumped the kill switch cause my hand got close, but nope. It has full power from a healthy battery, it would try and turn over and if I opened the choke a bit, I could see it trying to take in air through the pods.

I left it in that neighborhood overnight, came back today and tried to move it, I got it to turn over and get up to 1-2k RPM for about 15-20 seconds and then it cut again. After that I started troubleshooting. On the left side, I got a spark though it was small. But when I went to right side, no spark, and then no spark back on the left any more either.

And that’s about where I’m at: I walked it home, took out the voltmeter and wrote the measurements above down. The ones that seemed to be out of spec were the AC Generator and the CDI Power Source, though I’m not entirely sure where to go from here.
 

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Ok you have a multi meter and find the threads on here with resistance values as well as ac volts outputs.

But first, disconnect the cdi black/white wire and re try.

Earth the cdi black/white wire to kill ignition.

Get some red neon plug caps for ht visual checks.

If you have access to a scope and mega tester even better.

All ign connections must be good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So, I did disconnect the cdi b/w wire and re-tried, no luck (so no need to kill ignition by grounding). I can get the plug caps, though would they show me anything more than doing the standard plug tests (measuring, sparking against the engine, etc.)

It's possible there's a wire break somewhere, for sure. I'll try and read up on testing for that.
 

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1st, put a new battery in your VOM then retest everything.
Right now it looks like the stator is out of spec. The coil and plug caps are good. The ignition diagnosis is an elimination process. Once the stator and coil parts are known to be good then the CDI unit is the remaining piece for which we have no valid tests. The FSM does list tests/specs however those are specific to the analog VOM listed, not all VOM's read the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay cool, so basically make sure it’s the stator that’s likely the culprit. If it’s still out of spec, head down the road of replacing/fixing that? Otherwise it’ll be the CDI unit and I’ll have to try and find one to replace it.
 

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I'll ask now what your intentions are with the bike. Are you planning on restoring it and riding some OR fixing it up and riding to get experience before selling it to get another OR building it to make trips and more full time riding? This will determine what I say next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I’d say the latter; I doubt I’ll make many trips on it, but I would want to use it as a fairly regular commuter. I did that over the winter up until this and it was fantastic.
 

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OK, I'll suggest that you replace the CDI with the Ignitech module instead of retaining the stock CDI system. The module is @$200 which is more than the replacement CDI's. However the advantage to doing this is that the stator no longer is a factor in the ignition. This module retains using the primary pickup and is battery powered. It's programmable but that's a one time thing unless you start really working with internal engine modifications.
Downsides to this system is that it's more expensive one time, the stator ignition parts will burn out due to no discharge of energy and you'll have no ignition if the battery is below 8.5 volts.
Upside is your stator is only for charging the battery and can be upgraded to 300+ watts so heated gear is possible. Allows you to set the timing advance curve to what you want and insures that you actually have full advance, stock systems are very iffy for that with age.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ah, okay I see.

Would this be the correct Ignitech model: Sparker TCIP4 SPARKER TCIP4 - IgniTech P?elou?

And I basically order from them/ship DHL? Which is no problem, just want to be sure because it seems that it’ll take a month or so to get here if I’m reading the other threads right. After researching all this, I’m positive I need to update my R/R as well, so I sent a note to the folks at Sparck. Gonna save money and not do the electronics tray mod and anti-grav battery just yet (unless my battery is shot, then I will do something).

I retried the green/white reading; got 303, so slightly out of spec.

Wish I had this problem a month or two ago so I could be out there now, but what can you do, eh?
 

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No, you use the DC-CDI-P2 unit SPARKER DC-CDI-P2 - IgniTech P?elou?. When you order ask they'll ask which bike/model it's for and they should pre-programm it. Shipping time varies, 2-4 weeks. The voltage regulator is a good idea, I think Matt stopped selling them even though they're listed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay, Jiri’s sending the invoice my way and hopefully it’ll be here in a few weeks.

Quick follow-on question:

If I install this (and the new regulator, which apparently Mike is luckily still selling!), and the stator is still slightly out of spec; Is there a likelihood that I’ll need to replace that as well? Or because it is no longer part of the ignition circuit, it’ll do enough of a job to keep the battery charged.
 

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The only stator reading important now are the Yellow wires. Those are the charging system, everything else is just sitting there doing nothing.
Keep your eye open for a Honda GL1000/1100 stator. That's the upgrade to 300+ watts. It's purely a charging system stator and just barely fits inside the stock rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I found some great leads on that stator, just got the voltage r/r today, and sent 200 bucks to the Czech Republic :D; can't wait to get this bike moving again!

*Update edit:

I figured as much, with the readings and this conversation, but installed the new regulator and a new battery, no dice. So now: onto waiting on the ignitech part; order’s been confirmed.

*Update edit #2:

Just got the DHL shipping info; it should be arriving on Monday (5.7)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Okay. The Ignitech part came in; wiring it up was easy enough, but I'm still getting the exact same issue: No spark.

I'm about outta my wits end here (though that's likely just cause I have a lot going on at work).
 

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Ok, so your power is from a switched wire like the Black from the ignition switch, you have a ground wire and all the plugs are connected. What does the data stream from the module say?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have a mac, so I need to dig up my ol' PC to plug it in, so nothing on that front yet. I'm going to try and re-do the supply to the ignition switch. See what happens there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Alright since I'm moving way past my mechanical knowledge with this electrical builds, here's a quick summary, then lots of photos of my set-up.

  • Engine cut off mid-run; I thought it was the kill switch, now I don't.
  • Intermittently I could get it to spark, but super weak and after one or two tries, nothing.
  • Main issue is now no spark, nearly at all
  • Replaced autolite spark plugs with E3 plugs
  • Replaced voltage r/r with Products 12V 3 Phase PM Regulator / Rectifier, based on their recommendation; didn't fix the issue, but I didn't think it would.
  • Installed Ignitech DCCDIP2 (CM400T). I tapped the red supply into the black at the r/r, still nothing
  • I replaced the coil with the GM Distributorless Coil Mod, with temporary wiring, still nothing. I cannot find FASTIN/FASTON 3/16" clips, so I modified some larger ones by clipping them, as was recommended in that thread
  • I noticed a break in my brake light wiring, created a temp jumper for it; didn't think it would fix; it doesn't.

Photos (Descriptions of work below photo):

IMG-0011.JPG
The original resistor plug caps
IMG-0010.JPG
Spark wire, 7mm
IMG-0007.JPG
Spark wire, 7mm
IMG-0009.JPG
Temporary wiring back of coil
IMG-0001.JPG
Connection at Ignitech Box; supply wire free
IMG-0012.JPG
Ignitech supply wire and clip; free
IMG-0008.JPG
Main harness, ground to frame
Ignitech wiring to coil and wiring to harness
IMG-0003.JPG
Ignitech wiring
IMG-0005.JPG
Voltage r/r wiring; this is where I originally tapped the 12V supply for the Ignitech
When I measured the voltage, it was around 10.8. Key was turned on, but of course, no spark so the bike wasn't running.
IMG-0004.JPG
Voltage r/r wiring 2
IMG-0013.JPG
Voltage r/r
IMG-0014.JPG
Busted brake wiring

Any guidance on where to go next, I'd sincerely appreciate. I've really been trying to read up on past threads, but I'm having trouble translating that to my bike.

My thoughts are:

1. Cut the black wire at the Voltage R/R and tap the 12 V supply into that
2. Get my PC hooked up in the garage and see if I get any readings from the Ignitech
3. ????
4. Profit.
 
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