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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone. So yesterday I ride my bike about 80 miles, over half of that in the rain. I get home, about an hour later I head out for work. I get on my bike, push start, nothing. No headlight, no power. I got off my bike, turned the ignition off, then on, and got headlights. My bike fired up. I left for work, about a mile down the road my bike stalls out and won't restart. Same thing, no power. I just had my battery checked and it's good. Would my ignition switch be the next thing for me to look at? I haven't seen anything yet in my Clymer about troubleshooting this issue. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Sorry. If this could be put in the proper topic category that would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll check my points out here in a bit. Would that cause me to have no power at all? No headlight, etc...
 

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I'd say the ignition switch is the #1 suspect, based on the symptoms.

Works on time, then doesn't work. Turn key off, then on, and it all works. Then quits on it's own.

Following 40+ miles in the rain.

Yep, I'd start there.

And, IIRC, there are only 4 wires for two circuits in the switch: when turned on, Red power connects to Black (which supplies that power virtually everywhere) and Brown/White lighting power connects to Brown to power the taillight.

If it acts up again, you could bypass the switch by making the proper jumpers. If all is OK, I'd suspect the switch.

Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I pulled the cover off the points and there was no sign of water getting in there that I can tell. Does anyone know a good reference for learning how to troubleshoot electrical problems with a voltometer? I'm new to all of this and I really don't know where to begin. When I'm checking things with the test light the key should be turned to on right?
 

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When running tests, insert a slip of paper in between the point contacts (both sets) so the coils aren't "cooking" while the testing occurs..... Yes, the key must be on
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, I pulled the gas tank off, replaced my ignition switch with a new one I had and nothing. No power. I've been obsessing over this problem, trying to figure out why I didn't have any power anywhere. Everything I checked with my circuit tester gave me nothing except for the battery and the 15A fuse. I went and bought a new fuse, because hey, it's a dollar, why not? That was the problem. It's fixed and it even seems to run better. Is it possible for an old fuse to cause the bike to run a little rough? I guess what I learned from this is that if I have a similar problem, before going through the trouble of taking off the gas tank etc... I'll check the fuse. Thanks for your recommendations everyone.
 

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I hope you installed a METRIC fuse..... The SAE ones look alike, but are just enough bigger in diameter to cause overheating and burn-out unexpectedly (6mm vs 6.3mm/1/4").... This may have been the original problem....
 

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66Sprint said:
I hope you installed a METRIC fuse..... The SAE ones look alike, but are just enough bigger in diameter to cause overheating and burn-out unexpectedly (6mm vs 6.3mm/1/4").... This may have been the original problem....
Is that true? Or is it like the left handed safety wire pliers?

Not making a joke, just a question 'cause I never heard that before...and I am not an expert by any means.
 

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Sensei
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Draw a 3/4 circle around a dime....Now try to wedge a penny in it.... As it opens to 'grasp' the penny only four thin areas touch .... those 'smaller" contact areas must still carry the full amperage load, so they heat up ...Result: heating takes the temper out of the brass spring so it doesn't grip as well (further heating) and sometimes the solder on the fuse and the fuse holder actually melts....... Either way, you're pushing the bike......This is not a "left-handed joke".
 

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Wow, did not know that. Very good info, thanks!

And my dad taught electronics at Great Lakes. Fruit fell far from that tree.
 

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66Sprint said:
Draw a 3/4 circle around a dime....Now try to wedge a penny in it.... As it opens to 'grasp' the penny only four thin areas touch .... those 'smaller" contact areas must still carry the full amperage load, so they heat up ...Result: heating takes the temper out of the brass spring so it doesn't grip as well (further heating) and sometimes the solder on the fuse and the fuse holder actually melts....... Either way, you're pushing the bike......This is not a "left-handed joke".
Now I know why the PO has 14 amp fuses in all of the holders. it was probably the only fuses of that physical size that he could find. I went to four stores last night looking for the correct size and amp rating on the fuses. No luck finding anything near a 7A in the correct size.

Any ideas about switching to easier to obtain fuses with new fuse holders?
 

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drones76 said:
66Sprint said:
Draw a 3/4 circle around a dime....Now try to wedge a penny in it.... As it opens to 'grasp' the penny only four thin areas touch .... those 'smaller" contact areas must still carry the full amperage load, so they heat up ...Result: heating takes the temper out of the brass spring so it doesn't grip as well (further heating) and sometimes the solder on the fuse and the fuse holder actually melts....... Either way, you're pushing the bike......This is not a "left-handed joke".
Now I know why the PO has 14 amp fuses in all of the holders. it was probably the only fuses of that physical size that he could find. I went to four stores last night looking for the correct size and amp rating on the fuses. No luck finding anything near a 7A in the correct size.

Any ideas about switching to easier to obtain fuses with new fuse holders?
You can go to any auto parts store and they sell a small "spade" style fuse holder with two leads. You can cut out the existing fuse holder and install this style and you'll be able to use modern day fuses available anywhere.
 

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MNellis said:
drones76 said:
66Sprint said:
Draw a 3/4 circle around a dime....Now try to wedge a penny in it.... As it opens to 'grasp' the penny only four thin areas touch .... those 'smaller" contact areas must still carry the full amperage load, so they heat up ...Result: heating takes the temper out of the brass spring so it doesn't grip as well (further heating) and sometimes the solder on the fuse and the fuse holder actually melts....... Either way, you're pushing the bike......This is not a "left-handed joke".
Now I know why the PO has 14 amp fuses in all of the holders. it was probably the only fuses of that physical size that he could find. I went to four stores last night looking for the correct size and amp rating on the fuses. No luck finding anything near a 7A in the correct size.

Any ideas about switching to easier to obtain fuses with new fuse holders?
You can go to any auto parts store and they sell a small "spade" style fuse holder with two leads. You can cut out the existing fuse holder and install this style and you'll be able to use modern day fuses available anywhere.
I was just checking and Radio shack has a 4 position fuse block in which you can snap off as many as you need to get the config necessary. Sounds like it will make sense to be able to pick up fuses at the local auto store.

Thanks
 

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drones76 said:
I was just checking and Radio shack has a 4 position fuse block in which you can snap off as many as you need to get the config necessary. Sounds like it will make sense to be able to pick up fuses at the local auto store.

Thanks
Try getting the circuit breakers - especially if you need to troubleshoot things for a while.
Fits right in to the auto-style holder, just cost a couple of bucks.
 

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tbpmusic said:
drones76 said:
I was just checking and Radio shack has a 4 position fuse block in which you can snap off as many as you need to get the config necessary. Sounds like it will make sense to be able to pick up fuses at the local auto store.

Thanks
Try getting the circuit breakers - especially if you need to troubleshoot things for a while.
Fits right in to the auto-style holder, just cost a couple of bucks.
Great idea. I wish I had that setup last night. Went for a ride and about 2 miles from the house, the main fuse blew. I had a few spares. I went through 3 of them before I made it home. I think I had a wire shorting under the seat. I disco'd and reconnected everything and made sure they were insulated. It ran fine after that.
 

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tbpmusic said:
drones76 said:
I was just checking and Radio shack has a 4 position fuse block in which you can snap off as many as you need to get the config necessary. Sounds like it will make sense to be able to pick up fuses at the local auto store.

Thanks
Try getting the circuit breakers - especially if you need to troubleshoot things for a while.
Fits right in to the auto-style holder, just cost a couple of bucks.
Bill, you're back ,good to see you posting again.
 
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