[ArchSmith]

My 76' CB360t is unresponsive despite a full battery charge and new fuses.

I'd had issues for a while due to an improper headlight (H4 55/65W) but just replaced it with a new H4 35/35W. In tracking down that power draw I'd replaced the rectifier/regulator with the Sparck "12V Single Phase Regulator/Rectifier" updated component, otherwise it's all stock parts. After installing the new headlight the bike started once and idled at a very high RPM, I killed the engine after like 15 seconds of it running and then could not start it again, though lights still on. I'd found that the battery quickly fell from 13.1V to 12.3V, which is usually enough to kickstart the engine but not working this time. Then on charging the battery back up to 13.1V, nothing turned on, including the neutral light. I read proper voltage at the main fuse with key on but nothing at the light fuses. I'd replaced the fuses despite looking fine and tried unplugging the headlight in case of some malfunction there with no affect. My guess is something is shorted from the time it ran, I checked for poor connections at the areas I had touched recently but no luck.

Where would I begin to check for malfunctions?

 

[Mydlyfkryzis]

A sitting battery fully charged is 12.6 volts. Above that voltage is just a surface charge.

If you look at the schematic, the power for the lights comes from the battery, then to the ignition switch, then to the lights through the switch. In addition, the headlight goes through the starter switch.The first thing to check is the red wire from the battery to the ignition switch, it may be just a loose connection. The Ignition switch is the next place to look. It should have 12V on the red wire, and 12v on the black wire when the ignition is ON. The contacts in the switch are prone to wear and age. I recently replaced my switch and it improved light brightness and starting. The next place to check is the switch pod on the right. The starter switch on the 1976 is a double pole switch. It gets 12V to the switch. When the switch is in the normal (not starting), the power goes through the switch to the headlight. When you go to start, the headlight is disconnected and the power is sent to the starter solenoid. These starter switches have plastic parts that start to crumble with age. They also can stand replacement. There are "new" ones on the market. I replaced my switch pod with a newer CB600 pod, but it required some soldering to make the starter switch behave the same way. The newer model Hondas actually had 2 single pole switched rather than a double pole. It was only one little jumper needed to make it duplicate the wiring of the older CB360.

You didn't really give a full description of your problem...Is the starter turning the motor, but not starting? The Kill switch is the other culprit when this happens.

Also, there is a clutch and neutral safety switch that can prevent you from causing the starter to activate.

So a little more details can help.