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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm new to this forum, new to Hondas and new to doing up bikes, but I bought a CB250n rode and I love it, I want to change the tank, can anyone suggest a tank that would fit straight in?

I'm in the process of giving it a lot of tlc and creating a bit of a cafe racer (hopefully).Preferably I'd like to find something second-hand to keep the cost down but if there are any new ones that I could buy and you could suggest that'd be good too

ps I know this probably a beginners question but I'm struggling to find other details on the net?:confused:
 

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Welcome to the forum. We normally like to see an intro in the new members section. And pics.....we like pics.
As to your question, another member might have your answer. Basically, with fabrication, you can fit many.
 

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Fair enough, I told you I needed help :D IMAG1434.jpg IMAG1474 (1).jpg

These are a couple of images so far-ish. As you can see the space is limited and I can only work when it's sunny which to be fair has been fairly often recently. But the trouble is, I can't weld or have the equipment for doing so, so was hoping the tank (and the rear fender now we're talking about it) could be taken from somewhere else and relatively just slot in...? I'll put something below for the kinda bike I want to make
 

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Honda-Black-Cream-by-Cafe-Racer-Dreams-3-490x250.jpg

something similar-ish to this, simplified, cleaner lines and in the brat/cafe style. but mainly I just want a better looking tank :)
 

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Franchesco 94, not sure if I made myself clear in the earlier post, their pics of the bike I have being stripped down. I'm not a fan of the standard Nighthawk tank and would prefer something of the 70, 80s style, especially the bigger CB's with the knee spaces. Just not sure how to get one of them to fit my bike with out first having to learn how to weld??
 

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I'm not sure if your frame is like the 400/450 series where it goes from 2.5" at the neck to 4" above the engine back to 2.5". If so then a easy swap tank is difficult. The early style tanks you refer to were mounts using rubber pucks on the frame the tank slides onto with a single bolt in the rear to secure it. You may have to make the stanchions for the rubbers by drilling thru the frame in the correct spot and using a large bolt. If that's the case though then you are only concerned with the tank tunnel for frame clearance, sometimes you can apply the appropriate force to the tunnel to get the clearance, read "force" as a large hammer.
 

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Actually this does give me some hope! It sounds similar to hat the 25 has: two rubber bungs and a single bolt at the back.

I've put some pics below of the bike:
 

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Best tank for any of these bikes IMHO would be an old toaster-tank, CB92 alloy tank if you can find & afford one but CB72 "in a pinch" - there's also the two-tone early CB100, CB250, & CB350K twin tanks, beautiful stuff. My first bike was a '69 CB100 - unless you count that I got it in a deal as a donor for the other bike which was a '70 SL100 - of course the donor thing got switched around but really they were two complete bikes with one broken kick-start spindle. Put both back rims & tires on alternative hubs. Fudged the shrouds onto the beefier fork, switched the springs etc. Pretty ridiculous stuff for a 16yr-old who had no help not even a library book, and who had no clue wtf he was doing. Anyway yeah I loved that two-tone tank, wanna do a similar paint job on my next DOHC-4 project after my "CB900K0 Bol Bomber" is completed. Would be a nice look on a CB650 "ear-less" tank for DOHC though. Saw a really nice SL replica built from an XL500 or XL600 or some such, had the same style of tank from the CB with the two-tone paint and the wing decal but the forks and rims and knobbies, fenders seat etc were all distinctly in that pre-XL SL100/SL350 style. Gorgeous custom, makes me want an XL!!! Anyway that's just my suggestion. Forget the trendy hipster stuff and just look for some classic Honda single-cylinder models, trace 'em back to their roots, which were the first in the line etc. Anything from the mid '60s through early-mid '70s should be perfect inspiration for ANY modern Honda project. What I'm doing with the '82 CB900F Bol D'Or here, with the homage to the '65 CB450K0 Black Bomber ergo "Bol Bomber" - I call it "RETRO-FRIED" meaning to emulate all of the design ethos of the earlier models to let go of the design ethos or rather PATHOS, of the modern era - but keep the chassis & specs up to a decent standard as much as you can. Short of going with fugly USD forks on classic superbikes etc. Keeping with the wire-spoke rims but for instance my DOHC-4 normally has rims 2.15x19" front with 2.50x18" rear. SEVERAL sets of wire-spoke rims on hand but the primary set I'm building is 3.50x16" Super-Akront with 4.25x18" Akront for a Freddie Spencer / Mike Baldwin Replica vibe slash INTERCEPTOR stance etc, for some wide radial rubber etc. Additional sets on hand are 3.00x18" Morad with 4.25x18" Akront, 2.50x18" Borrani with 3.50x18" Super-Akront, 2.50x18" & 4.25x17", 3.50x16" & 5.00x17", 3.00x16" & 3.50x16" (a couple of sets of this type here, left over from my Lil' GRRRL'z "KZ440LOL" with the 4LS drum, Maxi-Scooter tires, NOS belt-drive, 39mm CB900F fork Kawa H1 500cc triple's gas-tank with tunnel cut out & replaced, planned side-hack bucket due to spare 3.00x16" rims with T500 Titan 2LS drum to match the Suzuki 4LS in front, spare 4LS hub for tire changes, blah-blah-blah) ALL of these wheels hopefully to be built simultaneously if I can afford enough hubs and spokes for 'em all. Let alone tires ha-ha. Suffice it to say, there are already plans in the works for my next couple of builds, based on wire-spoke swaps to several other big-bore '80s Honda models. Like a VF1100S/VF1100C Sabre/Magna based tribute to the Czech CZ type 860, or a GL1200 based replica of the GL1000 endurance racer "DLF-1000", or even an MVX250F too-smoke V-3 based replica of the Jawa V4 that Bill Ivy died racing on - **** like THAT. And all of 'em a swap to wire-spoked rims across the board. Lots of 16" front rims paired with 18" or 17" rear wheels for that classic '80s Honda race-bike vibe. It's a good way to re-purpose old chopper rims, what can I say? But I'm not talking about the cheap old chromed-steel Firestone crusty-rusty used rims. Yeah, a couple of 'em are used, but I'm talking Super-Akront and Borrani alloy rims here. Fork swaps to beefier versions of the originals preferably TRAC anti-dive, bigger yet period-correct rotors - and a planned "Faux-Leading-Shoe" fake DRUM style front hub, but instead of the CBX550F version with it's 230mm rotors I want the GL1500 front hub with 296mm or even 316mm rotors, bare minimum the PC800 Pacific Coast hub with it's 276mm discs. THAT would make for an adequate fake drum hub for an '80s big-bore Honda. As for gas tanks? Dug up an alloy CB1100R tank for the DOHC-4, it ain't cheap but it's a hell of a lot cheaper than the aftermarket brit-bike clone tanks in alloy that's for damn sure. Gotta figure out a way to copy THIS one. But more to the point, steel tanks can be polished too! Clear-coat 'em. Mother's Mag polish on the '80s Honda stainless gas caps, buff off the black powder-coat and these gas caps will look better than chrome. If I can get the same degree of polish on a TANK well I'd be "well chuffed" heh-heh. Yeah it's an arm and a leg, but only 'cause it's the bigger bikes. These other smaller models can get wire spoked rims for super cheap, the rims themselves especially. Plenty of decent 2LS 180mm-200mm drum hubs out there on the junk-pile too. Easy-Peasy just gotta put in the elbow-grease of polishing the Aluminum bits. HUGE learning curve on that stuff so start out on your mum's old tea kettle, some cookie sheets etc. Anything Aluminum. Get THEM gleaming first, earn some brownie points that'll allow you to boil your carbs on the stove (yeah that's a thing) or powder-coat stuff in the oven. Talking CLEAR powder mind you. Not much point in re-doing all of the black bits, is there? Brighten this **** UP. Silver engines in bare alloy, polished hubs, bead-blast or even sand-blast 'em if that's as far as you wanna go. But don't go over-board on the black components. Makes a bike really dreary IMHO. You see a lot of bikes & trucks & the like done up in flat black maybe some red accents, reminds me of Cobra Commander's H.I.S.S. guard tanks ha-ha. Cheesy hideous and one obvious display of macho insecurity. Paint 'em bright & cheerful. If it's a question of cooling, well add an oil cooler or bigger oil cooler if it's already got one. Paint THAT black. But brighten up the damn bike. See that Nighthawk 250 it's already RED that's a damn good start.

Just sayin'!

But to answer your question? There's so much room in a tank tunnel, the main stuff you've gotta watch out for, like on this here "KZ440LOL" and using the tank from the H1 Triple? The top of the neck. Looking at the two frames, the KZ440LTD has this long downward canted back-bone which drops right from the top of the steering stem. The "collar" of the tank is a very thin lip of space just basically flopping over that back-bone, as though it really IS just a folded over layer of a jacket collar with the jacket itself making up the layer of the tunnel bottom. Meanwhile look at the H1 frame - horizontal rails with a short 45-degree reinforcement brace between the steering stem and those horizontals. Ergo, to make the H1 tunnel fit one would have to stretch it all the way in, adding a complete new tunnel. Plus the fact that the H1 petcock is not only located directly over the backbone area it's quite HUGE - the answer HERE was to cut out the tunnels and play mix-&-match. Not a great solution but I simply got FIXATED on using this particular tank. A quicker solution perhaps, would've been to use a tank from the H2 750cc triple. More capacity anyhow. Or better still, to stay within the KZ series & shoot for a MK-ii style Endurance racer shape as opposed to the earlier Z1 & 'LTD styles which are very cruiser-esque heck in a sense these models define exactly what "Jap-Chopperette" really MEANS in a textbook definition - Of course even better than this, would be to look outside of the Kawasaki range entirely. However, this is what I wanted, the tank looked great in profile. What I should've done instead, is when I lost the 1st KZ440LTD and entire collection of KZ440LOL conversion parts ie 4LS drum, NOS belt-drive sets & NOS alloy rims etc, in a house-fire? I should've bought an H1 triple instead ha-ha. THAT would've fit the tank I wanted. But the belt-drive might-ve been a hassle to fit. Who's to say? Maybe NOT.... Not as much anyhow.

But yeah, who CARES whether you yourself can weld or not. Yeah, I can weld. Half-assed. Can I weld good enough to put new foot-pegs on my own KID'S bike, or weld up a gas tank for the bike she's gonna ride a gas-tank that's gonna sit right there in her lap full of flammable gasoline? Uh, let's leave THAT type of welding to the professionals! Ha-ha. So it all boils down to how much you WANT the thing. We ALL can give up other ****, in order to save up for doing stuff the right way. If you smoke cigarettes OR dope, drink booze OR beer or even Starbucks, don't bitch to me about certain bike mods being too expensive. I'm on friggin' disability here. So yeah, you don't need to buy a zillion tools and teach yourself a master welding certificate, you simply need to decide what stuff is absolutely essential to your new vision for the bike - then take that **** in & get the professionals to do it right! I mean ... I'm all for the whole get a garage full of tools and get an arc-welder approach. But for certain things, not so much. Like the rear-set mounts I want on the DOHC-4 - yeah, I wanna get rid of the hideous bolt-on style brackets these bikes have. But at the same time, I wanna be able to stand up on the pegs and ride over some railroad tracks at a decent speed. Without a peg pivot snapping off and falling onto the bike with my crotch while my ankles buckle underneath on the tarmac & kick the bike into a tank-slapping speed-wobble. Yeah thanks but no thanks, that type of welding you want done by a real certified welder. So what if it's the only good welding on the entire bike's frame? Well it should be! Ha-ha.

Yeah and screw it, unless you're doing a whole buncha work the better welding equipment's gonna cost you more than that in the 1st place.

As for all of the bolt-up stuff, or cutting & drilling stuff, bolting it together, well I'm perfectly comfortable with all of that stuff. Lacing wheels too. Mixing & matching different suspension components which aren't supposed to go together, no problem. Whipping up some fibreglass bodywork no big deal. It's just - when it comes to welding a frame well, I took some welding classes in high-school the problem being is I also paid attention when a lot of the student welding was being torn apart both literally and figuratively, critique and sledge-hammer.....

I'm really not crazy about the fibreglass gas tanks either. Seen a few crashed '70s-'80s Honda bikes on YouTube where the whole mess burst into flames - and I recognized the gas tank profile on 'em as aftermarket & race-spec tanks which could only have come in the form of fibreglass replicas. Fender-bender stuff which rapidly turned into a life-or-death ****uation, simply because what would've been a small dent quickly became a large crack which dumped fuel all over the roadway the participants and passersby. **** that ****!

It would be relatively easy to make some replicas of this here CB1100R alloy gas tank in fibreglass. But I'd only do it if it could be done in metal, preferably Aluminum of course 'cause steel's a mess to use in a gas-tank why bother if you don't have to....

Whatever. Just sayin' - go ahead and swap a tunnel on a tank. Just don't go doing it yourself - don't try & stick the two halves together with rivets & POR-15 tank sealant type of bull****. Have it pop open like a clam-shell when the linguine noodles bring it up to temp!
 
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