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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK,

I pulled off the swingarm and pulled out the center shaft. I tried to get the bushings out but they dont seem to want to give it up. They appear to be made of steel. I was planning to get the bronze bushings to replace them, but if I have not damaged these already by whacking them, maybe I should just leave them in. However the center shaft is showing some. That is not a cheap part.

Can I get away with simple clean up and reassembly, or do I need to replace those bushings and/or the center shaft.

BTW, what keeps the pivot bolt from turning inside of the center shaft?

Thanks,

Steve
 

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Sensei
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The tube you are calling the "center shaft" is called the "collar" by Honda....It's NLA....
The pivot bolt is kept from rotating by a combination of its torque and the fact that the rotational movement/force is between the collar and bushings, none is applied to the pivot bolt....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks,

Clymer calls it a center shaft, but I see that it is supposed to be a collar. The thread viewtopic.php?f=29&t=320&st=0&sk=t&sd=a
has a very good description of how everything is supposed to work.

If there are no more collars to be had, I guess I am putting the worn one back in.

Is there another string with some good tips for getting the steel bushings out? I wasn't planning on repainting, so I have not taken a torch to it yet.

Thanks,

Steve
 

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I used a really long bolt as a "drift" and hammer them out, be sure to move it around with each hit so that the old bushing comes out evenly
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I the steel bushings did not want to move, so I cleaned up the collar and put the thing back together. I have only about one millimeter of lateral slide back and forth between the sides of the frame and it moves smoothly.

What am I supposed to torque the pivot to? It would be nice to take out some more of that lateral movement, but I dont want to break those fiber bushings.

Is there a manual to be found with torque settings and details on thread lock etc..? I am starting the reassembly, and I dont want it to disassemble itself when I am riding.

Steve
 

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1mm is way too much....Are you sure you have all the parts on?...(the cupped washers/dust-seals would add up to about that 1mm)....There should be ZERO lateral movement
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have all of the parts in and was hoping that maybe it just needed a little more tightening. I dont have the torque spec, but I wrenched it down pretty tight.

I will pull it apart again to make sure it is all there. I also need to get some big metric sockets for the torque wrench.

Thanks,

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I pulled it apart and all of the parts are there. I cranked it down and there is still a gap. The felt washer, fiber bushing, and dust cap are all present on the inside of the frame. I am going to take a lever bar to the bolt and tighten it down until the lateral movement goes away. I shouldnt be running the risk of breaking anything as long as there is lateral movement.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am not sure if something is worn asymmetrically, but I have ease of movement and lateral play when the swingarm is up in the center of its normal travel, but if you let it drop lower it almost binds up.
Is this something that new bushings would address, or do I have a bent part?

Steve
 

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Normal torque specs for the pivot bolt are 72 to 94 Ft/lbs
There should be ZERO lateral movement and ZERO (twist/sideways) play if you push sideways at the axle adjustment slot area (with arm horizontal)....Only up and down motion is acceptable (rotation on the collar)..... If you have lateral motion, the collar isn't "captive" and the swingarm thrust is bearing on the pivot bolt to collar joint, not on the bushings to collar as intended....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
80 ft/lb of torque and there is ZERO twist and ZERO lateral play. I was way underestimating the torque on the part.

Thanks for the spec and the direction.

BTW, Bird76Mojo suggested that you may be able to help out with my clutch actuator arm that was eaten by the chain (or the oil soaked rats that were living under the cover). You can see the part on a different string viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4582 there was also a suggestion to use a replacement clavis from a Kawi. But looking at the part, I wonder if it will stick out too far into harms way.

I have seen pics of a few of these clutch levers that have been eaten by the chain. I wonder if that comes from the chain being loose, the clutch being worn, or if the swingarm bushings are creating the play that puts this part in contact with the chain.

Steve
 

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Don't know if this helps you now but I just did this job. A friend of mine has a press so instead of trying to hammer mine out each side, he simply pressed the one side in and progressively used longer blinds until it reach the other end, pushing the other one out as well. Now of course there is a shoulder in there but it seems that the original bushings were softer metal. Also I wasn't too worried about the shoulder because the new bushings have their own. This pic shows how it looked when it came out the opposite side. It was a hand operated press and didn't require a whole lot of work.
 

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